I was getting pretty frustrated with the exterior door handles on my 92 RRC, and found that replacements (typically from ebay, pulled off donor cars) were ridiculously expensive and also, did not guarantee longevity as the same problem likely could occur down the road. I have very little trust for 80s-90s pot metal parts, especially high use, high stress parts like door handles.
We've all see this before, likely:
So, I disassembled my drivers front door latch/handle, and pulled the handle out after removing a (very rusty) pivot pin. The pin has a knurled end that is pressed into the handle "cup" (black handle housing) The handle cup is aluminum I believe, the pin was regular steel. It was rusty:
I carefully took measurements of the old parts and decided to have a go at making replacements, because these are so hard to find and I can't stand having things break, likely at the worst possible time.
The replacements came out nice, and fit directly in. I made them out of stainless steel and used a straight stainless steel dowel pin. Instead of trying to press fit it into the handle cup, I use a bronze washer and locking collar to ensure the pin doesn't go sliding out. The assembly also sits into the door recess quite tightly, which also prevents the pin from moving.
Looks pretty stock!
There is an album showing the replacement of the handle and associated videos of operation etc. I have materials to build about 50 of these (they are all welded stainless, super tough) if anyone is interested in some peace of mind!
I was getting pretty frustrated with the exterior door handles on my 92 RRC, and found that replacements (typically from ebay, pulled off donor cars) were ridiculously expensive and also, did not guarantee longevity as the same problem likely could occur down the road. I have very little trust for 80s-90s pot metal parts, especially high use, high stress parts like door handles.
So, I disassembled my drivers front door latch/handle, and pulled the handle out after removing a (very rusty) pivot pin. The pin has a knurled end that is pressed into the handle "cup" (black handle housing) The handle cup is aluminum I believe, the pin was regular steel. It was rusty: View attachment 282300
I carefully took measurements of the old parts and decided to have a go at making replacements, because these are so hard to find and I can't stand having things break, likely at the worst possible time.
The replacements came out nice, and fit directly in. I made them out of stainless steel and used a straight stainless steel dowel pin. Instead of trying to press fit it into the handle cup, I use a bronze washer and locking collar to ensure the pin doesn't go sliding out. The assembly also sits into the door recess quite tightly, which also prevents the pin from moving.
There is an album showing the replacement of the handle and associated videos of operation etc. I have materials to build about 50 of these (they are all welded stainless, super tough) if anyone is interested in some peace of mind!
hmacris - I know this is an old post, but I'm interested in at least one of these if you have any. My handle looks like your picture, but worse. I'm primarily interested in the front drivers side (North America).
I was getting pretty frustrated with the exterior door handles on my 92 RRC, and found that replacements (typically from ebay, pulled off donor cars) were ridiculously expensive and also, did not guarantee longevity as the same problem likely could occur down the road. I have very little trust for 80s-90s pot metal parts, especially high use, high stress parts like door handles.
So, I disassembled my drivers front door latch/handle, and pulled the handle out after removing a (very rusty) pivot pin. The pin has a knurled end that is pressed into the handle "cup" (black handle housing) The handle cup is aluminum I believe, the pin was regular steel. It was rusty: View attachment 282300
I carefully took measurements of the old parts and decided to have a go at making replacements, because these are so hard to find and I can't stand having things break, likely at the worst possible time.
The replacements came out nice, and fit directly in. I made them out of stainless steel and used a straight stainless steel dowel pin. Instead of trying to press fit it into the handle cup, I use a bronze washer and locking collar to ensure the pin doesn't go sliding out. The assembly also sits into the door recess quite tightly, which also prevents the pin from moving.
There is an album showing the replacement of the handle and associated videos of operation etc. I have materials to build about 50 of these (they are all welded stainless, super tough) if anyone is interested in some peace of mind!
Hi everyone! And thank you for an amazing forum where people are frank but fair and extremely knowledgeable.
About me: First time poster. Previous 98 LRD owner from 2000-2008. Some off-road experience in CO. 20 years experience with classic VW and BMW (59-72)including several long-running...
USA version 1993 Land Rover Range Rover 4.2 County LWB Problem: Does not start 12.12.19
Before you dive deep here - thinking it may be the fuel inertia switch
If so, then where is that located???
Here is how she has degraded over 2 months:
a. Running good
b. Starting bad/flooding
c. Engine...
Would anyone happen to know of someone that is actually knowledgeable on RRC for transmission rebuilds/repair in AR. Not sure it really needs to be rebuilt bit it is stuck in 4 high. I read up on the reasons for that however, Im not mechanical enough for that adventure myself. Im about an hour...
Figured this would be a fun thread to have around, while perhaps ramping up some activity in the Classic section and—of course—with our Rovers!
Go ahead, post what you did to and/or with your Classic today!
Meant to say hiya to all when I joined, so sorry! However, between reading all of the post in here and applying that to my nemesis aka 95 RRC, I've been a bit busy. I do have to say, I found this group to be most helpful. I will definitely have a few questions at some point, but for now I will...
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