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Hi, all:

I haven’t posted on the forum in over a year. I see a lot of familiar names (where’s Rufant?) and plenty of new ones, as well. I bought an LR3 (Disco 3) in May of ’09 and have been neglecting my ’95 LWB as a result but it’s time to get her back in shape.

I have a head gasket leak and it’s time to do the deed. I’ve never done this job before but am confident; I have good tools, a Rave CD, a trustworthy machine shop, a reliable parts supplier and, of course, this forum.

After reading up (here and elsewhere), I’ve decided to take what seems like good advice and replace the radiator/water pump, camshaft/lifters and timing components while I’m in the vicinity. So, as I get ready to jump into this, I have some questions:

1. It seems that the camshaft can be replaced with the engine in the truck and without much more tear down than is already done to remove the heads. Is this true and what are the tricks to do it?

2. If I replace the camshaft, do I need to replace the bearings, too? My fear is that this will require more tear down and the machine shop to do it. I’m trying to get this done with as much of my own labor as possible and in my own driveway.

3. Are there other components that I should be thinking about replacing while I’m in this job (beyond the obvious gaskets, hoses, flame trap, etc.)?

I appreciate any thoughts. It’s good to be back.

Cheers,
Bob
 

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I've done other engines, but not the V8, however an engine's an engine.

The camshaft can be changed in situ, as long as there's nothing in the way of you pulling it out of the front of the engine (radiator, front grille, etc).

Ref the bearings, I'm not sure they are user replaceable, and you shouldn't need to. However you do need to be careful when installing the new camshaft, ensuring that it goes in square and doesn't damage the bearings.

I assume you're going to get the heads skimmed, regrind the valves, etc... Make sure the valve guides aren't worn (valve stem is loose in the guide).

Good luck, and let's see some pictures.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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As you are aware, the head gasket leak causes higher than normal pressure in the rubber hoses. I would replace them all. If it had coolant running through it, it got replaced. I think you said you'd do that but I wanted to say that.

I put my flame trap in the parts washer and let the fluid run through it for an hour. Probably should have replaced it but this seemed to work pretty good.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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What exactly is a flame trap? Is that the gauze in the crankcase breather?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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CSK said:
What exactly is a flame trap? Is that the gauze in the crankcase breather?
yes its on the front of the Valve cover, pretty critical component of the PCV system


Itd be wise to do a cam while all that is apart, also new lifters timing set and water pump.
 

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To get the cam out (I've done this) at least the radiator needs to be out of the way. I also had to move the airconditioning condensor out of the way to get a (battery powered, I didn't have proper electrics where I did it) impact wrench on the crank nut. A battery powered impact wrench is much bigger than an air driven one, so you might not have to do that. It was not needed to disconnect the A/C hoses from the condensor to move it out of the way enough for me to get to it.

HTH
 

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the cam bearings CAN be done in place if needed, except for the last one, if they're decent you can do them and leave the last one. If you try to do the last bearing and knock the plug out, you'll never get it to seal and have to pull the transmission to re-seat it (ask me how I know....) use the ARP head-stud kit instead of the OEM head-bolts. Slightly more expensive but can be re-used many times and hold MUCH better...
 
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