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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I am going to do the brakes on my 2000 4.0 HSE Bosch truck. The brakes are too far gone, will need rotors (discs) and pads for sure. The rubber seals that protect the caliper pistons are in sad shape, I am considering buying caliper rebuild kits and bleeding the brakes. Looks like the brakes were neglected, so fluid is likely overdue for replacement anyway.

Has anybody here had good/bad luck with caliper rebuild? I am going to buy the rebuild kit from Atlantic British, I don't trust the britpart kits. Any feedback on caliper rebuild kits is welcome. The calipers aren't all that expensive ($150 new, $70-ish rebuilt), the rebuild kit is $30. Should I just get the caliper? The brakes worked, but seemed sticky. The truck sat for a long time. The pistons don't appear to be rusty where it matters (on the working surfaces).

The dust shields ("disc shields") are both rusted and damaged, where can I get new ones? I can't seem to find them.

I am planning to bleed the brakes using a either conventional one-man method or using a vacuum pump (I got a mityvac). Some cars with fancy ABS require a scan tool to operate (open/close) the valves of the ABS system during bleeding. Factory manual for P38 does not seem to suggest that this is necessary. Are there any P38-specific gotchas that I need to be aware of? The Wabco is a rather unconventional hydroboost type off-road ABS system, so I would not be surprised if it had some unusual quirks.

Back when I used to own Discos I seem to remember needing a diagnostic tool for the brakes, but it was more than a few years ago and I forgot why I needed it.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The callipers are nothing special, take them apart, clean them, put new grease (and new seals if needed) in them and assamble them again.

The manual says a complicated bleeding procedure with pushing the brake pedal and close the breeder valve, it can be done way easier!
Get yourself this thing; https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hand-Held-Brake-Bleeder-Tester-Set-Bleed-Kit-Car-Motorbike-Bleeding-Vacuum-Pump/231580117727?hash=item35eb402adf:g:8vYAAOSwmwFchy5i

Open the bleed valve, connect the bleeder, suck 2 containers full per front wheel, close bleed valve, do this each front wheel, usually you go from longest line to shortest, can't remember if the P38 is the same.

Rear wheels are very easy, after that do front wheels again.
 

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Brake job on a P38 is a fairly straight forward ordeal, so If you've done brake jobs before it should be fairly easy.

I think the key is to buying quality caliper rebuild kit. I've bought some rebuild kits before that comprised of pretty poorly spec'ed parts that I could not use. Buy quality kits. Caliper piston boots always perish fairly quickly due to the environment it's put in, so having perished piston boots don't necessarily indicate that it was neglected. Better barometer of that would be the condition of guide pins. If the pins are properly lubricated, moving smoothly, the unit was probably well looked after.

Only gotcha to watch out for that I can think of are the removal of rotor screws. Make sure you use an impact driver to remove them. Otherwise, you're going to round them out and cause whole bunch of unnecessary mess. I believe the screws are Pozi #4, so make sure you use the right bit.

As for bleeding, I prefer to follow the RAVE. The process takes about an hour to properly do it, but I just go by the book.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you very much for the advice, I really appreciate it. I have a handheld vacuum pump, I'll give it a shot and see how well it works. if not, I'll do the procedure by the book.
 

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Rebuild yourself or a $70 rebuilt is a tough call, I guess it depends on how much time you have. I wouldn't worry much about the shields unless they are completely falling apart.
 

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Thank you very much for the advice, I really appreciate it. I have a handheld vacuum pump, I'll give it a shot and see how well it works. if not, I'll do the procedure by the book.
You have to do the front brakes twice, front first, than rear, than front again. (according to the book)
 

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Just done my brakes when rebuilding the axles. Only things I would add: wire brush the threads on the caliper bolts and use lots of Coppaslip. Clean and polish the guide pins with wirewool and regrease with silicone grease, it is more water proof. Fit new rotor screws when you reassemble.
The rear dust shields are expensive for what they are. They are just a piece of pressed steel. https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/rear-brake-disc-mudshield-rear-genuine-ftc3546lr-p-3421.html
 

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You tube. Work on P38. There is a guy in Norway who makes great videos. His one on bleeding the brakes is easy to follow and simple.
 

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+1 on rotor screws, and don't over tighten the new ones, they need no torque
 

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For me accross the pond in USA, i needed to replace the dust shields.
I ordered them from England for $25 each plus overnight shipping, total 65 bucks and here in the next 1.5 days.

Locally to me the LR dealer wanted 132 each one.

go figure.
 

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jazzzyjay wrote:

For me accross the pond in USA, i needed to replace the dust shields.
I ordered them from England for $25 each plus overnight shipping
Who did you order them from? I have never seen them that cheap. The rear mud shields are quite a bit more expensive than the fronts. The rears also need a stiffening bracket and that is another £20 or so.

P38 mud shields are a lot more expensive than either Disco or Defender parts. Why I don't know. It is just a bit of pressed steel.
 

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I have a 1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE P38. I bought the upgraded rotors from Atlantic British in 2008 and this is my normal drive vehicle. The brake pads are only half used up now! These are the pads:
BRIT PARTS KEVLAR BRAKE PADS : DA4339 SFP500130/SFP100470 & DA4336 SFP500150. Amazing life on these brake pads with the upgraded rotors
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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As a note on brake bleeding...

Do it by the book...
It's not a 'normal' braking system, and I've tried doing it myself in the past, and whilst the vehicle stops - it's never as good as the RAVE procedure. These days I wait until I've got someone else who I can borrow their foot on the brake pedal and do it properly.

The procedure is a bit long winded - but it's designed around bleeding the modulator block and then the calipers. The reason you have to do the fronts twice is because there is 2 braking circuits for the front - the normal powered system, and then the hydrostatic circuit - which is the non-powered circuit, and is your 'backup' circuit if you like... this works solely on the pedal itself for if the ABS pump or something in the powered circuit fails, then you can still stop. You'll know about it if you need to use it, as you practically have to stand on the brake pedal to make it stop.

For the sake of a bit of time, some extra dot 4 and a few beers/coffees to get someone to give you a hand - it's worth just doing it properly the first time!
 

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+1 for what Marty says about doing the bleeding by the book. Might be relatively long winded but objectively its actually about the easiest system to bleed that I've ever done.

It just works. And stays worked.

Normal cars, especially older ones, always seem throw in a bit off gremlin inspired iffyness. You know the thing. "Is the air really all out or was that a bubble?" "Are you sure thats as hard as the pedal goes?" and worst of all 30 miles down the road the darn thing goes soft again so you get to do it all again.

I did the nuclear replace everything wheel side on mine back in the summer. Picked up the rotors at £50 a pair genuine a while back and with new TRW calipers £320 for the set, £100 fronts, £60 rears, say £50 for the flexies and I din't see the point of messing about with caliper rebuild kits. Especially as the provenance was, most likely, uncertain. Its well known that Clive is, um, somewhat "less than sane" but shaving a few quid by entrusting the stopping of two tons of car to Britpart is pushing the envelope rather too far.

Clive
 

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FCP Groton life time warranty new or remanufactured that's on the pads too .
Buy the bleed tool, never push the pedal further than it has been before .
On a different note could someone acknowledge this post please as others I have posted don't stick after send .
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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never push the pedal further than it has been before .

This. And if you haven't fixed your pre '99 modulator with the repair kit, please do it. It is the difference b/t brakes & no brakes.
 

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I am working on my front OE caliper (by Lucas) rebuild using AllMake seal kit with new OE pistons. I found the dust seal lip is too thick making it impossible to fit into the groove no matter how hard I try, while I can fit the old OE seal back in easily. So, I have ordered the Lucas rebuild kit instead.

Just want to know if anyone has successfully fitted the AllMake dust seal into the OE Caliper. If so, what magical steps did you use? I used red caliper grease, watched many youtube, fatigued my fingers in many ways and still couldn't fit it.
 

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Could you elaborate on this? I'm going to search but figured it might help others as well to have something here.

never push the pedal further than it has been before .

This. And if you haven't fixed your pre '99 modulator with the repair kit, please do it. It is the difference b/t brakes & no brakes.
 
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