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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do I need to return my new alternator? Test results included

All,

I posted the following as a part of another thread. However, I feel it is a good discussion independent of that post.

I replaced my alternator yesterday.
Following are my test results post alternator install:

TestThresholdResultsIssue?
1. Engine off, all accessories on for 30 seconds, then off. What voltage12.512.5
2. Voltage across battery at idle (no electrical load)13.8-
3. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (no electrical load)14.214.1Y
4. Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (everything electrical switched on)14.214Y
5. Voltage at ALTERNATOR at 2000rpm (everything switched on)14-
6. Voltage drop between alternator body and battery negative (YES negative). Measure at max electrical load and 2000rpm (millivolts please)12074.8
7. Voltage drop between alternator positive and battery positive. 2000rpm, max electrical load12048
8. Check Voltage drop from Battery Negative terminal to 1st groundpoint on vehicle32,12,1-
9. Check voltage drop from 1st ground point to block32-
10. Check voltage drop from Alternator Housing to block2.4-
11. Voltage from alternator positive to alternator housing14.213.8Y



So, did I buy a faulty alternator? I cannot see any issues with my cables. The battery seems healthy after a charge and some usage. I bought this alternator:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Land_Rover/Range_Rover/Bosch/Alternator/2002/HSE/8_Cyl_4-dot-6L/BSAL0809X.html

This alternator was as close to OEM as I could find.


Thanks!
Jon
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Re: Do I need to return my new alternator? Test results included

Updated and expanded test results:

TestThresholdResultsIssue?
Engine off, all accessories on for 30 seconds, then off. What voltage12.512.4Y
Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (no electrical load)14.214.1Y
Voltage across battery at idle (no electrical load) 14.15-
Voltage across battery at 2000rpm (everything electrical switched on)14.214.1Y
Voltage across alternator positive to alternator body at 2000rpm (no electrical load)14.214.2
Voltage across alternator positive to alternator body at idle (no electrical load)14.214.1Y
Voltage across alternator positive to alternator body at 2000rpm (everything electrical switched on)14.214.1Y
Voltage between alternator body and battery positive. Measure at max electrical load and 2000rpm (millivolts please)14.214.1Y
Voltage drop between alternator negative and alternator positive00
Voltage drop between alternator body and battery negative (YES negative). Measure at max electrical load and 2000rpm (millivolts please)12075
Voltage drop between alternator positive and battery positive. 2000rpm, max electrical load12047.3
Check Voltage drop from Battery Negative terminal to 1st groundpoint on vehicle12076
Check voltage drop from 1st ground point to block12036
Check voltage drop from Alternator Housing to block1208






I am no longer inclined to return the alternator. One tenth of a volt seems like it could be a function of my volt meter, human error, or some other factor. It seems to be working fine.

I still have issues with my door locks, though. I will research them independently of perceived electrical issues.

I have found out my problem with the EAS. The high temp cutoff has failed due to the compressor running constantly due to non-return valve issues.
 
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