I have a 2008 HSE and the dealer told me I needed to replace rotors and pads on all four after about 14,000 miles. I think I got ripped off. My HSE has about 30k miles on it now and the dealer is telling me that it is time to change the brakes again. This time I would like to explore only changing the pads. I would like to hear from those that have done this. Is this okay? It's funny because the main reason the service advisor told me that I need to change rotor was because it will squeak. Truth is that ever since they replaced my pads/rotors last time it has sqeaked. I've taken it back twice to the dealer since my last break job complaining about this and they have done nothing about it.
Do I need to replace rotors with pads everytime?
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Absolutely Not.
The rotors need to be replaced only when they wear to the service limit. Check the RAVE manual or maybe your owners manual for MY 2008 specs, but mine (2003) is 28.4 mm. They start at 30.0 mm for mine. The pads are the part that wears. You could check thickness yourself with a micrometer or calipers, and/or ask them what the thickness is that they measure.
Rotors are made with enough thickness that they can be "turned", meaning they re-surface the faces with on a lathe. If they are glazed or slightly warped, the mechanic can "turn" the rotor to make the face new again.
If you feel for a "lip" at the edge of your rotors, that will give you an idea of how muchg they are wearing without measuring w/ calipers/ micrometer.
Unless of course you have some exotic brake pad & rotor set-up that have to be replaced very frequently, like after every race, they should not need to be replaced every 15k miles. Especially NOT the rotors too.
Also, if your rotors get warped from improper wheel lug tightening or running through water puddles right after lots of hard braking, or the like, you will want to replace them (or at least re-surface them) to get rid of the pulsing at the brake pedal.
What kind of brake pads/rotors do you have?
(I recommend ceramic pads)
Are you extremely hard on your brakes?
Is this a LR dealer service shop?
The rotors need to be replaced only when they wear to the service limit. Check the RAVE manual or maybe your owners manual for MY 2008 specs, but mine (2003) is 28.4 mm. They start at 30.0 mm for mine. The pads are the part that wears. You could check thickness yourself with a micrometer or calipers, and/or ask them what the thickness is that they measure.
Rotors are made with enough thickness that they can be "turned", meaning they re-surface the faces with on a lathe. If they are glazed or slightly warped, the mechanic can "turn" the rotor to make the face new again.
If you feel for a "lip" at the edge of your rotors, that will give you an idea of how muchg they are wearing without measuring w/ calipers/ micrometer.
Unless of course you have some exotic brake pad & rotor set-up that have to be replaced very frequently, like after every race, they should not need to be replaced every 15k miles. Especially NOT the rotors too.
Also, if your rotors get warped from improper wheel lug tightening or running through water puddles right after lots of hard braking, or the like, you will want to replace them (or at least re-surface them) to get rid of the pulsing at the brake pedal.
What kind of brake pads/rotors do you have?
(I recommend ceramic pads)
Are you extremely hard on your brakes?
Is this a LR dealer service shop?
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528 Posts
I did my own pads at 24k and did not replace the rotors. I'm coming up on 48k now and am expecting a wear sensor to pop any time. I'll do the rotors this time. When I research the topic at 24k, I concluded that rotors every-other time was reasonable. I'm no expert, but my belief is that squeaking comes from the pad vibrating within the caliper. There are goopy anti-sqeak compounds that one applies to the back of the pads to prevent this.
03rangiemark is absolutely correct. There is no need to replace the discs at the same time, unfortunately the dealer will charge you for both as this is their "bread and butter". I think from memory the manual gives a 1.6mm wear limit. that's 0.8mm each side which is ridiculous! Agreed you shouldn't leave it until half the disc is gone, but a 1mm step each side is when I start to think about replacing, and then I'd probably replace on the next set of pads...
Worth noting though is that I use cheap after market pads which I've found are softer than the Genuine LR pads and as such they wear rather than the disc. I get aprox 10k out of a set of pads on the front, 15k on the back, but I replace them all at the same time because it times nicely with other wheel maintenance things.
Dan
Worth noting though is that I use cheap after market pads which I've found are softer than the Genuine LR pads and as such they wear rather than the disc. I get aprox 10k out of a set of pads on the front, 15k on the back, but I replace them all at the same time because it times nicely with other wheel maintenance things.
Dan
G
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·Don't get caught up in this ...umitbat said:
Spend the extra $25 or so dollars and get OEM pad knowing that you got good pads on your rover.
My guess is that when the dealer replaced my pads/rotors last time they put is ceramic pads that squeak. They deny this only because they don't want to have to replace them because of our complaints of being too noisy. Funny things is last time I had the HSE in the shop for squeaky breaks they blamed it on the pads/rotors needing to be replaced again. Seems to be their standard line. When I pressed them to give me the measurements of my remaining pads they said they would need to talk to the technician and get back to me. Of course they never did.
G
Guest
·I always do my own pads and rotors on my cars. But I always use LR parts. I have never had noisy brakes. However with my new Rover I do notice that the tend to make a faint noise when they are hot. But just wait until I change them out.
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I'm sorry. I should've clarified. I prefer ceramic pads to semi-metallics because they are SO much cleaner. And the ones I bought from AutoZone were less than $50.
I've never had a problem with brake squeel or brake noise, but I always lube the pad mounting points & anti-rattle spring with brake grease.
If you check more of the high performance pads, you'll find that most are ceramic (including OEM on high-end vehicles) because they don't heat up as do semi-metallics, avoiding brake fade under heavy braking conditions.
No offense to Darrin Turners preference to OEM LR pads; there just fine too. I just didn't like the brake dust & having to clean the front wheels as much as the original pads on mine required of me. And the Autozone price was better. I don't understand the "don't buy into this" part though. :think:
I've never had a problem with brake squeel or brake noise, but I always lube the pad mounting points & anti-rattle spring with brake grease.
If you check more of the high performance pads, you'll find that most are ceramic (including OEM on high-end vehicles) because they don't heat up as do semi-metallics, avoiding brake fade under heavy braking conditions.
No offense to Darrin Turners preference to OEM LR pads; there just fine too. I just didn't like the brake dust & having to clean the front wheels as much as the original pads on mine required of me. And the Autozone price was better. I don't understand the "don't buy into this" part though. :think:
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Also, are the OEM LR pads for some RRs ceramic anyway? I'm sure the RRSC pads would be.
I just did the brakes on my 05, but i replaced the rotors for good measure. I also did the brakes on my P38, and have a post on that forum on resurfacing rotors.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46730
It would be chepar to have the rotors resufaced, or turned, whatever you like to call it. I just can't see putting new pads on a rotor that can be trued up for about 12-15 bucks apiece. I don't know if AutoZone or ORielly's is still offering this service, but you can clean up all the rotors for the cost of 1 new one, so why put pads on without having this done. :think:
I have heard that resurfacing LR rotors can cause squealing/noise issues. I am going to put that to a test next week on my other P38.
JMO
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46730
It would be chepar to have the rotors resufaced, or turned, whatever you like to call it. I just can't see putting new pads on a rotor that can be trued up for about 12-15 bucks apiece. I don't know if AutoZone or ORielly's is still offering this service, but you can clean up all the rotors for the cost of 1 new one, so why put pads on without having this done. :think:
I have heard that resurfacing LR rotors can cause squealing/noise issues. I am going to put that to a test next week on my other P38.
JMO
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141 Posts
Only 14,000 miles out of pads? wow! that's not much life at all....Are the RR dealers looking for easy $$?? Do you have an indie shop that could give you a second opinion?
I got 52,000 miles on my '07 RR SC. The disc's were just below minimum thickness. As I wanted to try drilled & slotted rotors (Roto-Tech) and different pads (ABC Yellow Stuff) timing worked well.
Brake options are so subjective with so many non genuine items in the offering.......good luck
I got 52,000 miles on my '07 RR SC. The disc's were just below minimum thickness. As I wanted to try drilled & slotted rotors (Roto-Tech) and different pads (ABC Yellow Stuff) timing worked well.
Brake options are so subjective with so many non genuine items in the offering.......good luck
I posted the question incorrectly, with 41,500 miles can the rotors be resurfaced, if you run your finger to the edge of the roto there is a little lip, i was not sure if the rotors could be resurfaced, also would you recommend a place like FireStone or Midas to do the brakes.Mark1 said:
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