Was that box glassed with your "my little pony" bedsheets, MO?
Very nice work, whoever did that project. I'd stick with a 10" however... that box is cavernous, and sticks out way past the stock panel (lost a tie down hook in the process). Those thin JL's really improve the mounting options.
I'd also agree that the amp under the rear floor is more practical.
Regardless, that's an awesome result. And I know just how much work those are to make! :wink:
are those the thin JL's? they look like them but I cant tell. I am either doing this, or mounting them in the floor of the trunk and using perforated plexiglass to cover them up. This way my trunk space is maximized, and I think it may also look better. Not sure yet.
I would say the sides are the best place for these, if you care about sound quality the way they face makes a difference. The sound waves created by speakers facing up wont affect you the same as ones that hit the tailgate then move forward. Plus youll prolly have to raise the floor to get a box with the proper airspace. Heres some pics of mine again, i like it much better than the large one i had before although that one was much louder going from 12's to 10's. My sound quality is better now though.
Thats what I want, only I want my speakers where your amps are. do you think there is enough depth for those JL's? underneath the foam crap is it metal?
Yes so no real way to put them there efficiently and not raise the floor. You could raise it though with no noticeable parts however youd need speaker grills, cause no way you want to throw stuff back there right on your 500 speaker.
Thanks Paul. These enclosures were built for sound quality not for that super loud bass although it has some serious bass inside the car. I grew out of that bass thats so loud everyone can hear you coming from a mile a way, i go for sound quality now.
I didnt do this myself unfortunately i dont have this skill. It took some serious work and about 2 weeks to complete. Of course he did take his time but hes a friend of mine so i could be on him like a paid worker haha. Ill post some crazy stuff in a bit.
i would NOT locate the subs in the trunk floor, you are going to get horrible response from the subs. I doubt you will really hear any difference from the stock pos subs... and are you dead set on those JL's? i assume you have heard them installed, yea? definitely never buy subs before you hear them installed! I just don't see them having that great performance, but I can be completely wrong. honestly I know everyone complains about space, but once you hear a w7 in action nothing else will suffice. They DO require a lot of space though!
I already have them, and I have heard them. I need all my trunk space, cannot afford to loose more than 8 inches of perimeter depth. I wanted the w7, however, there is no way it will work with my needs. Those JL's slam for their size. By far the best thin speaker ever made. In addition I'd compare the 13" to the 12w6. Wait till byou hear them someday before you critique them. I paid the regular price, however, the street price is barely lower if you can even get your hands on them. I have called about 40 places and no one has them. Crutchfield even discontinued them because they could not get any. Only a few hundred have been produced. here is one in production
in case anyone needs oem matching carpet for projects here is a link, I searched everywhere, I was told this company is dead on EXACTLY the same color and pile.
talked to Steve Duffield, the Technical Support Manager at JL Audio. He told me a lot about these new subs. And I was really surprised by some of the specs. These woofers appear to put all other “flat” woofers to shame. The TW5 subs have a stronger motor than the equal size W7 subwoofers! I believe all previous flat subwoofers have a stamped steel frame. The TW5s have a cast aluminum frame. The voice coil is huge (7”dia.). The TW5s are rated at 500 watts for the 12" and 600 watts for the 13.5". The Xmax is greater than any other flat sub, and it's also greater than lots of conventional build subwoofers too. And they do this all while being shallower than any other flat sub. Fitting these in any truck should be easy, even regular cabs. The enclosure air volume they require is less than most other flat subwoofers too. According to Steve, the TW5s are going to have about the same output as the W3v3 and have the sound quality of a W6v2.
I got my TW5's but I changed my mind, I sold them and bought a 13W7 and a JL 1000/1v2 Class D Monoblock amp. I think I'll enjoy these better; I'm using the same setup and will begin this project next week!
Hey Bud-
The pics you posted in the beginning of this thread are definitely an easier way to go about it than I did.
The biggest challege for me was learning to lay fiberglass effectively. You can watch instructional videos on Youtube.
While the woven stuff is not as strong, it's much easier to get it to lay flat and avoid air bubbles. I had to do a lot of work to eliminate the air pockets and air leaks. That was a real PITA. Also, you better get going - During the AZ summer the high temps will make the resin set very quickly and only give you a couple minutes of working time. Good luck and keep us posted.
Bonjour à tous, je me présente aujourd'hui, mickael, 33 ans
Bonjour à tous, je me présente mickael, 33 ans, je me permets de venir sur ce forum car j’ai un problème avec le Range Rover Sport de 2006 4.4 Défaut p0171 P0174 Débitmètre Remplacer Capteur Carte Bougie vérifier la fuite de vide OK...
I just bought a RRSS 2006, was fine and suddenly one day all warning lights came on. It gave me HDC fault, transmission fault and the height adjuster won’t work. I tried disconnecting the batter, the faults were cleared, but a couple of minutes after cranking the engine one by one all faults...
I replaced my front (brembo) disc and pads and plan to replace my rear set this weekend. I've seen varying accounts on how to handle bedding these ranging from just don't brake hard for 300km to some rigorous procedures. Is there a consistent procedure for all new brakes on the sport...
Hey guys.. I don't know if anyone would like to help me on this...
The transmission won't shift into D.. it goes into reverse... and there is a transmission fault message on the display
THanks
Guys,
I am due for an oil change, the book says use only Castrol Edge Pro only available from dealers for $160 cdn. I can't imagine going 24 thousand Kms between changes, it seems like far too long!
Anybody decided to do 2 or 3 oil changes per year with Mobil 1 or similar or would I be better...
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