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Discussion Starter #1
I watched a youtube video of how to remove my dizzy in my '93 4.2, and I read thru the manual I have (a '95, but same motor/dizzy).

Q: Do I need to remove (1) single bolt and the hold-down plate to be able to just twist/pull the dizzy out?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Sure do, 9/16th for the bolt IIRC


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its a bit fiddly, I suggest using some fingers after the nut is loosened as its easy to drop the nut. :shock:
 

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Although it is not a particular tight fit, there is a rubber o-ring to seal things up and that might require a bit of firmer pulling to get out. I suggest you clean around it a little to avoid crud falling in. Also as mentioned rotate to have the rotor point to piston 1 with the timing mark on the crank pulley at tdc
 

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Yes, fully remove the nut and the plate first. Then stand on the left side of the engine bay and pull firmly from the base of the distrubutor. You might need to add some twisting action to get it to release. You'll then need to pull the top radiator hose out back and lift the distributor straight out from the top of the engine.
Reinstalling the plate and nut requires a bit of contortion and extreme mental focus.
 

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Very important to mark rotor position
On distributor and distributor position on engine
 

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Discussion Starter #8
...lift the distributor straight out from the top of the engine.
Reinstalling the plate and nut requires a bit of contortion and extreme mental focus.
Is the removal/re-installation a lot easier if I remove the top rad hose first?

I am swapping in a different dizzy with a new (remote) IAMon the fender to see if this was the source of my ignition problems.
Q: Should the 2 different dizzy’s have the drive gear/oilpump slot “clocked” in the same way, so that installing dizzy #2 should alignwith the dizzy #1 position marks? Acknowledged that I might have to adjust thetiming slightly with a light after it starts….
History: My original “remote IAM” was a scab-in of afender-mount for a GM module, so I had to cut/splice a wire internalto the dizzy, as I recall. When I knuckled under and took it to the shop to seewhy it kept stalling, they isolated the problem to the GM module and myinstallation, and installed the AB kit instead, but had to solder my internalsplice job. This all worked good for a few thousand miles, with the samesymptoms cropping back up. Got a good used dizzy cheap, so I’m going to do theswap with a new module just to eliminate those components.
 

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Doing this fix myself as well, also make sure your engine in on "TDC" or Top Dead Center prior, which will make it easy. Also mark where the rotor is located under the distributor cap, make sure you refer to the technical manual on alignment of spark plugs go exactly the way you have it originally.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got the dizzy out with no drama, except why didn't anyone mention that it would be GREAT idea to use a 15mm special dizzy wrench??!! I worked forever with a crowfoot to get it loose, then another forever to turn it in 2-deg increments with astraight 15mm. Snapped another 15mm in two trying to bend it into a specialwrench. Why is every SINGLE dizzy on every SINGLE engine a PIA to get to?

Thanks all, I started another post with questions about whatI found under the cover in the dizzy that says “DO NOT REMOVE”.
 

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Unusual, I can usually get a standard 9/16 combination spanner in under the PAS pump and get about 1/8 of a turn at a time til it slackens off..... clean and lube before replacing


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Got the dizzy out with no drama, except why didn't anyone mention that it would be GREAT idea to use a 15mm special dizzy wrench??!! I worked forever with a crowfoot to get it loose, then another forever to turn it in 2-deg increments with astraight 15mm. Snapped another 15mm in two trying to bend it into a specialwrench. Why is every SINGLE dizzy on every SINGLE engine a PIA to get to?

Thanks all, I started another post with questions about whatI found under the cover in the dizzy that says “DO NOT REMOVE”.
Well I suppose we all assumed you had a decent tool set. Personally I use these open ended stubby spanners bits you hook up to a sockets set extension. Have had them for years and always come in handy to reach hard to get nuts and bolts.
 

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Got the dizzy out with no drama, except why didn't anyone mention that it would be GREAT idea to use a 15mm special dizzy wrench??!! I worked forever with a crowfoot to get it loose, then another forever to turn it in 2-deg increments with astraight 15mm. Snapped another 15mm in two trying to bend it into a specialwrench. Why is every SINGLE dizzy on every SINGLE engine a PIA to get to?

Thanks all, I started another post with questions about whatI found under the cover in the dizzy that says “DO NOT REMOVE”.
Well I suppose we all assumed you had a decent tool set. Personally I use these open ended stubby spanners bits you hook up to a sockets set extension. Have had them for years and always come in handy to reach hard to get nuts and bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Personally I use these open ended stubby spanners bits you hook up to a sockets set extension.
That's what I referred to as a "crowfoot". Still a PIA, had to use a 3/8 universal, couldn't get a straight enough shot on the nut without it. MyIll-equipped tool box has a perfectly-shaped ½-inch dizzy wrench. Story of mylife.
 
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