[green_rangie]

Hi all,

I have just done the o-rings and it is nice to once again have some heat even in our mild winter. Many thanks to paul.adshead and all who contributed to this shortcut.

Looking at the distribution flap blend motor and found that with it removed the flaps are stiff. I have loosened them using the self tapper method (thanks to Allv8, Wiggy and Chrissal) and they are improved but can be better. I am now considering lubricating the flaps by drilling a couple o holes and spraying in some wd40 or lithium grease.

Search is usually my friend but in the case I can find lots of reference to this idea but none actually specifying where to drill the holes. My gut feeling is to use the hole in the middle (from the self tapper method) to lubricate the flap edge and drill one on each side to try for the edges of the flaps.

Appreciate any input on this please.

Regards, Steve.

 

[Treadbear]

How stiff are we talking about here? I have just also completed the O ring installation - and have the complete dash off so I have great access to everything. I have removed my blend motors and am soon to replace them and have moved the gears for the flaps by hand - and they do indeed feel a bit stiff to me. At least the big one in the center - the others seem fine. I just figured that those motors must be pretty strong! So if that is about the stiffness that you are referring to - moveable but firmly - then I guess I should tap a hole between the heater housing as well.

What is the cause of these flaps binding? Is it just a lubrication thing or do they lose their shape or what? Just curious.

 

[green_rangie]

Yes, moveable but stiff and it did improve after the self tapping screw.

The general opinion seems to be that it is caused by a tight fit rather than lubrication.

 

[green_rangie]

Followed my gut feeling and sprayed WD40 in the hole in the middle (from the self tapper method) to lubricate the flap edge and also drilled one on each side to try for the edges of the flaps. Good result and the distribution flap although firm is moving by hand easily. Had an issue with the blend motor – I had opened it to check for broken teeth and had not realised the re-alignment of the pot and drive cog. Once this was sorted all positions were once again working without generating an error. Actually was really surprised at this outcome so easily.

So in the wrap-up:
* I have a car that smells of wd40 for the next week but has correctly working HEVAC and no error symbol. I can have warm feet or body or even a demisted screen at whim. I must be growing even more old and boring as this was exciting for me.
* I have a suspicion that the WD-40 will work for a certain amount of time and then require top-up or perhaps a spray with lithium grease instead. At least all the holes are in place and this will be easy.
* There is probably some damage to the blend motor and it may not have a long life but I am well prepared for the replacement process (or even next round of o-ring replacements) having thrown out and blocked off the duct to the rear which restricts access. Have you ever put your hand over one of those rear vents when they are working – useless really.

 

[tomcatrr]

* I have a suspicion that the WD-40 will work for a certain amount of time and then require top-up or perhaps a spray with lithium grease instead. At least all the holes are in place and this will be easy.

Good news!!!

Yes your are right, WD-40 don´t lubricate

 

[Hoges]

Lithium grease tends to atomise and appear as black spots ... been there/done that... :shock: I sparingly used Lanotec (lanolin) spray... smelt like a sheep pen for a while but is still operating...no book symbol :thumb:

Next time I'll probably use a dab of zinc -base grease ..the white stuff recommended for door latches etc... less chance of getting black marks on carpet/clothes/upholstery etc

good luck / well done with the o-rings etc!