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Discussion Starter #1
Well after 3 plus years of Disco II Mania I just sold my 99 that I used to pull the boat around and for general driving. Nothing too heavy as 4 wheeling or cliff type adventures. It had 218 on it. Bought it for $2500 and sold it for $2300 so I cant complain. I did learn quite a bit and did all my own repairs such as replaced the tranny and transfer case ( what fun but found them dirt cheap) , replaced the entire sound system, output bearing shaft seals, rebuilt the locks and fixed all the switches, master cylinder and various other fun projects like rebuild the abs shuttle valves. Ran great when I sold her but the paint was fading bad, the tires were about done and the airbags where leaking.
I just snapped and bought a 2002 RR 4.6 knowing only what I knew about the Disco. Some Kid had it on Craigs and it is beat up mechanically to say the least. The body is excellent (paint like new) as well as the interior with no major degrading of the leather. Right in my bargain price range of $1900 ( thousand less than asking). I'll be trolling these pages as I plan on restoring to the best of my ability's and hopefully back to some state of previous Glory



First order of business is changing out all the o2.s and maf as I pulled all those related codes prior to buying it. Stinks like burnt fuel so I'm hoping its just bad maintenance and the use of non-premium gas.

Next up is the abs, traction lights. 3 amigos on the Disco what are they referred to on the P38? Just found a great thread about the accumulator so its off to explore this beast.
Any and all comments, thoughts or insight I will find highly valuable!

***Oh and someone did the airbag conversion to coils so I guess you live with the dash and cluster lights on ??? Rather have the airbag system as it was easy to work on in the Disco and was a great feature for towing. . Also it's all over the Road so not sure what to attack first in the suspension.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Welcome to the P-38 side....
First thing to attack on the suspension? Easy! Get rid of the springs and put the EAS back in!
 

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if its all over the road that's possibly ball joints and steering arms buy quality components or do it twice?? if its changing directions when cornering or feels like its sliding around corners that's most likely the rubber bushes on trailling arms. not the coil suspension.
if the lights are still on the system may not be bypassed properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yea, it seems you are correct! What a bunch of Tools there are out there who butcher these and other vehicles because they're too cheap to do it right. I did get it for a low price $1900 ( well here in a booming economy - Denver cheap). Others are listed at 6/7 thousand up for similar years and mileage in nice shape. There were a few listed ( I've watched Craigs for months) at 2K but they were 1996 Models and had blown head gaskets. This at least runs and drives and looks nice from the outside and is a 2002. Speaking of which it looks like I stumbled on the last year of the the P38? Guess that's good but I could be wrong :)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Definitely, by the end of production just about everything had been sorted. There's about 5 different fuseboxes for the P38 and the later they are, the more reliable they are (but not interchangeable unfortunately) as just one example.
 

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Is it me or are those tyres smaller than standard?

The reason I ask is that when first bought, on elastic band tyres and coils, mine was a horrible drive. Bouncing, crashing, pulling all over the road and I'm blaming shockers, joints and bushes. Dropped to 16's with 265/70s and back onto air, all issues just disappeared.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought so too but they are Nitto nt 420 (m & s) 255 55 R18 or 29" diameter. Standard was 255/65R16 also 29" diameter.

*****from the web.........
In the case of the US spec 4.6HSE, and certain 4.0 models that were also supplied with 18 inch rims, fewer alternative tires are available. However the Nitto Terra Grappler is now available in the stock 255/55R18 Range Rover size. This is the closest thing to a true all-terrain tire avilable in the stock size. Gordon Kessler s trying them on his 4.6; his initial reports indicate their highway noise is less than his original worn XPCs. Update October 2005: The new General Grabber AT2 is now available in 255/55/R18!! This seems like a genuine all-terrain design and should be very good. Lawrence Howis found some great winter studded tires for his 18 inch rims -- the Nokian Hakkapaliita SUV in the 235/60 R18 107 XL pictured on his RR at left. Additional options appear below under 30-31 inch tires.

Owners who are serious about off roading anad want more options might want to swap for 16 inch rims or buy a set of them for use on expeditions. (Buyers of the 4.0/4.6 model when new could specify either 16 or 18 inch rim size as an option).
 

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Standard on the P38 was 255/55x18 if you have 18" wheels or 255/65x16 if you had 16" wheels so what you have are correct. Both these sizes assume 8" wide wheels but some cars, although probably not in the US, were fitted with 7"x16" which use 235/70x16 tyres.
 

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Congrats! I was originally looking for a disco when I looked at a P38. Much nicer interior and overall looks better.

Tons of info here to fix her. Search is your friend.

Don't convert back to air until everything is sorted out and even then, I would be careful. It can be a major headache. I stuck with it for a few years but after rebuilding my valve block, rebuilding the compressor twice and other leaks, its just not worth it. If you do any offroading, do not convert air.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok , thanks for all the EAS tips and tire confirmation. I am going to pull all the pieces ( eas) out of the RR today and inspect. Not sure if it is all there but I'll post some pics..........
 

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If you are going to buy new tires, definitely get some bigger than stock. The OEM size 29 inch tire is ridiculously small. Read through the tire section but 30 or 31s look much better.
 

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I just did the same. After a D2 and 2 x D1's I'm burnt out on Discos and looking forward to the P38. Nothing wrong with any of the Discos I had, but time for something new.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good luck in your search! As always , for me, I don't do body work so I try to find the best body and interior and at least in running condition. I can pretty much do anything mechanically and after cleaning this one up and blasting all the crap out of the engine bay and all the undercarriage it doesn't seem as bad as originally thought.
Putting in all new o'2 s , plugs, wires, both intake and cabin air filters, installing lcd running lights as well as re-doing the head liner this weekend. Only took me a few hours, taking my time, to get out as I had never done one before. Some P.O jackass re-did it with black vinyl and it was peeling and hanging everywhere. Looked ghetto to say the least. ( guess that explains the mini tires). Going with a nice classy light grey to match the black leather interior or a light beige to match the accessory pieces.
Also pulled the drivers door panel ( window was catching badly) and found the window lift teeth had been sheered of the rail. Tried dremeling new teeth out of the existing curved tooth rail but NG. Just ordered a new one off e-bay.
and then ???
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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For daily duties, the EAS is great. It works as it should, with minimal care and attention. A pretty simple system to understand if you put the time into it to learn it.
And if you go bigger tires, be prepared for less gas mileage, slower acceleration, and poorer brake performance. Been there and done it.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok , yea great point on the tires. They actually have decent tread left so that will be the very last thing I even consider. Right now hitting the mechanical stuff that has been neglected and then on to all the fluids in the diffs etc. I can only imaging the last time the transfer case was changed out. My last Disco leaked like mad and then-it finally imploded when the tranny went so I bet I filled it 10 times over 3 yrs :( .....at least I knew it had fresh oil. When doing the O'2s yesterday I found bank 1 upper completely disconnected ( wires where sheered out of the harness) so that would explain the o2 codes. Also they have Audi logos on them so maybe the originals?
Having a hell of a time understanding the parts that are broken on the sunroof. I have it out and am sliding it up and down ( manually) and for the life of me I don't see what's broken. I looked at 50 posts last night and pics off the net . If you could take a look at my " sunroof" post I'd appreciate it! Going to Post some detailed pics of what I have here shortly.....Thanks!
 

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Also they have Audi logos on them so maybe the originals?
Definitely not original then, LR was owned by BMW at the time they were building the P38 and original O2 sensors where made by NTK. Someone has obviously found something that will fit, whether they ever worked properly or not is a different matter, but they fitted......
 
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