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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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107 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All
Excited to get the new to me Range Rover Classic on the road.
I just picked up a 1990 Rover County
It had been sitting in a neighbors yard for a few years. Her husband worked on it and then passed away.
She gave it to me to do what I want.
I went through the vehicle, cleaned it up as much as I could to start with, checked fuses, emptied fuel and replaced, all the usuals.

I got it to fire up pretty easily.
Runs pretty good just sitting there.
I did a quick non official compression test. Meaning just pulled 1 plug at a time and then turned it over for a few seconds to see what reading I got.
All around 120, however the battery was not new, the rest of the plugs were in, and throttle was not open.

Anyway, I put into gear, and there is about NO power at all. I have a very short runway. It will shift into 2nd when I am going downhill, but that is all the room I have.
The engine does not sputter or even have a lot of smoke.

Distributor looks good, plugs look good, etc....
Any thoughts?

OK, so after all of that, I have an opportunity to pic up a 98 Discovery 1(50th Anniv) for very cheap with a good running engine(assuming 4.0) and a bad trans.
Will that just be a plug and play? Meaning, can I just pull the engine right out and drop right in, or will there be a lot of computer work, etc...?

Thank you all very much and I apologize for a long first post
 

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65 Posts
Not sure about a 3.9 but as I have looked into the possibility of putting a 4.0 in my lwb that currently has a 4.2, I would have to swap the front cover, space the crank, swap the harmonic balancer, swap the oil pan, swap the intake. That's what two different engine builders have told me, and I would be going that route but decided to purchase a parts truck instead.

There has been no mention, so assume no accommodation needed, for harness, mounts, and connecting to the trans.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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1,413 Posts
yes it is a direct bolt in drop, you need to swap the plenum, timing cover and belt drive. as fuel and air management you need to keep all the range stuff.
the range efi system is a 14 cux, the 98 disco is a gems. similar with slight differences, but can be made to work.
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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425 Posts
if your Disco engine is a 3.9.. which it is most likely to be in 1998 it is a straight fit.
a 4.0 is quite different but if you stransplant everything including the GEMS it should work.
The r380 gearboxes are the same for 4.0 and 3.9
The auto ones have a difference
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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359 Posts
If the 98 Disco is a GEMS, then you need to put over the Sump, frontcover and oil pick up, camshaft and intake manifold, I just did it last week.

Everything will fit, be aware, the crankshaft is about 2cm longer on a cross bolted engine (GEMS), you need a spacer for that.



But, the way you tell it the engine of your rover looks ok, why change it?
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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107 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I was hoping for an engine with less miles.
Sounds though that I will just buy another motor that will be torn down, so I may as well just pull the one I have and do some slight repairs.
If you see some of my other posts that are (currently toward the top) you'll see that my current 3.9 I cannot get to run properly.

I will for sure have to pull the engine out of my parts car to put in my other. anyway. What are the best things to do to the engine while it is out? I am thinking about replacing all the gaskets an possibly do the cam, lifters and head. Or just leave it???

I really just want a daily driver. One that I can fix myself
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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359 Posts
Don't know how big your budget is, but when you have everything apart, new bearings?

Turn the crank, if the engine (pistons/cylinders) is worn you hear a hissing, air escaping between cylinders/pistons.

Camshaft you can see easily, lobes of the cam are rounded of at the sides, it that's the change change lifters too.

In case you think of getting an aftermarket cam;
I've got a P38 with a 4.6 with 4.0 HC pistons and a Kent 180 cam, and a Disco with a 4.6 with a 3.9 cam (0.6mm less lift at the valves) and a sort of restricted exhaust (in comparisan to a stock 4.6)
P38 accelerates real well on the highway, Disco is just smooth,lazy, torquie, still not slow. I think I prefer the Disco.

Yes, you need new gaskets when you take it apart.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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107 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The budget can be what it needs to be.
I think I'd buy a good used factory engine before I have someone do a complete rebuild on what I have. I'm not too keen on anyone around me. Have only heard average reviews.
I'd like to do as little as needed although since the engine will be out, I should do the most I can while I have the opportunity (if that makes sense)
 
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