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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For years I have rewired the EAS so the car doesn't level with the ignition off, both on my own cars and those of friends and customers. This prevents the car from dropping on all 4 bumps when parked unevenly (with the EAS hunting for consistent height settings) or when there is a leak somewhere. And thus spares the compressor from having to reinflate all four bags. As an added bonus, if there is a leak, you will see which corner is lowest and are already half way to finding and fixing it.
The procedure for rewiring is described in detail on the forum, including the side-effect that the EAS sometimes 'forgets' which height is was parked in an selects one seemingly at random when restarting.

Last week, when removing the EAS-timer from a car, I realized the pin-out is identical to a normal relay, with some added pins (for diagnostics and BECM).
So, by replacing the EAS-timer with a standard 4-pin relay you get a fully functioning EAS, but only when the ignition is on. You will need to put the timer relay back in if you want to use diagnostics, so best to keep it in the car.
Perfectly simple way to disable the self-levelling, without any rewiring.

Filip
 

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Excellent information and observation Filip, Thank you !

Right now I also have a switch to turn off the 'timing relay' but this is good to know.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Very interesting to know Filip!

I wish I'd done a bit more investigation when I put in the extra relay on mine...

I on the other hand, instead of putting it under the bonnet by the fuse fox, wired it in directly next to the EAS Delay timer under the LH/Front seat..

Wire Technology Electrical wiring Auto part Electronic device
 

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That is an incredible bit of info. I've installed your bypass on several rigs but never gave the slightest thought to pinning out the timer relay! :thumb:
 

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For years I have rewired the EAS so the car doesn't level with the ignition off, both on my own cars and those of friends and customers. This prevents the car from dropping on all 4 bumps when parked unevenly (with the EAS hunting for consistent height settings) or when there is a leak somewhere. And thus spares the compressor from having to reinflate all four bags. As an added bonus, if there is a leak, you will see which corner is lowest and are already half way to finding and fixing it.
The procedure for rewiring is described in detail on the forum, including the side-effect that the EAS sometimes 'forgets' which height is was parked in an selects one seemingly at random when restarting.

Last week, when removing the EAS-timer from a car, I realized the pin-out is identical to a normal relay, with some added pins (for diagnostics and BECM).
So, by replacing the EAS-timer with a standard 4-pin relay you get a fully functioning EAS, but only when the ignition is on. You will need to put the timer relay back in if you want to use diagnostics, so best to keep it in the car.
Perfectly simple way to disable the self-levelling, without any rewiring.

Filip
Am I understanding correctly that the "new" 4-pin relay simply fits in place of the EAS timer? And a standard relay like this...

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...ap?ck=Search_N0381_-1_2716&pt=N0381&ppt=C0335
 

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- the first one: See handy diagram below (but note this also has the 87a 'Normally Closed' contact too)

Looks like the extra contacts on the 'timer relay' are only of use for diagnostics and the 'timer delay' function - for when the ignition is off but the BeCM is playing its annoying 'self-levelling game', hence periodically waking up the EAS ECU and valve block ... and possibly contributing to a flat battery (over time...).

Wonder how many folks with iffy EAS activity have replaced the timer relay with another one (@£25/used and £100/new) simply because the relay has that little transistor symbol on it so is 'special' ? (Yes, including me...)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Aloha Filip!
Read your post......Ran out to the shop, found spare relay, did your Mod!
BRILLIANT!
It took Waaaay longer to get the stupid "Fir Trees" out than to do the entire job! as it was, 5 minutes start to finish!
Thank you!
Cheers,
Tom
 

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Ok so just to be sure... a Relay... just as the infamous Yellow Relays on the Engine Fuse Box ????
 

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- Hard to believe I know but YES !

Don't be too surprised though as I suspect we are all incredulous that it is that simple....

Those Yellow ones are just 'standard' relays ('normally open' contacts)
The Green ones are 'standard' relays too (with 'changeover' contacts)
as illustrated in #8

LR just put some different numbers on the pins, eg. 1-5, to confuse us !
 

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You will want to use a 5 pin version, as the Normally open as well as the Normally closed contacts are in use.
 

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Excellent find Filip!

I beat the 5 minutes record so far, took me less than 1 minute, and took longer to get the glovebox to close evenly after i'd put the timer in there for safe keeping :)


For RHD at least, it was just slide the LH side seat right back, put hand in lower left hand corner under the seat, pull out the timer relay (ANR4652) and push in a spare 5 blade relay i had to hand. slide seat forward. no trim removal. throw timer in glovebox.

did some up, down, lock, lean on bumper type testing and so far all good.

hope that's the last of clicking chatter i get to hear whilst parking on my sloping driveway.

thanks.
 

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One Minute!
Well....I could'a done it that quickly, but I mistakenly assumed I needed to remove the trim, and could not find the Fir tree removal tool!
That and i was so excited to try it out, I failed to recall that the delay relay is just sitting right there exposed! Glad you mentioned this as it will prevent others from breaking the stupid Fir Trees!
That said, I am soooo happy not to hear the self leveling doing it's thing! I have also now traced the leak to the left rear, however, I suspect the valve block. Rebuild is on the bench for this weekend.
Oh, and to answer P38baffled....Yes, the Green one is what you would use, however, I have about 2 dozen Black ones here at any time. Same thing as long as they have 5 blades.
Cheers!
 

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Very interesting to know Filip!

I wish I'd done a bit more investigation when I put in the extra relay on mine...

I on the other hand, instead of putting it under the bonnet by the fuse fox, wired it in directly next to the EAS Delay timer under the LH/Front seat..

View attachment 115473
The relay I've got has the 86 at the top and the 85 at the bottom. (on the diagram printed on the relay...) Does that matter? Will it still work?
 

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Sounds like you may have what's called a Type A relay base even though the standard these days is the Type B. The last time I saw a Type A being used was in a French car from the early 80's. Nip down to you local motor factors (or even Halfords) and get a standard changeover relay so you know it will be right.

I personally don't have a problem with the self levelling, even when I'm at my mates in France where it gets parked on a very bumpy slope, but I can see the advantage if you want to know which air spring is leaking (although soapy water will tell you that too). Just don't leave it like that if it also means the diagnostics won't work. How many times have we had posters on here that can't get the RSW software to connect? Maybe that is because a previous owner did this mod?

Failed EAS, unable to connect the diagnostics to see what the problem is, another car ends up on coils.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for all the positive comments!
I had a very busy week, both at work and in the shop and still found time for some volunteer work in an animal shelter in between. It's just after midnight over here now, relaxing a bit with some Guinness and reading this with a very big smile. :)

Just want to put one thing straight: you need to use a 4-pin relay, like the yellow ones, and not a (green) 5-pin changeover type. The 5th pin would send power to the BECM when the relay is not engaged (ignition off), which is not needed and probably wont do much good, potentially keeping the BECM awake as it sees 'activity' from the EAS.

For diagnostic purposes, I'd leave the timer relay in the car and I have added one to my Rovacom case as well. If you're worried about future owners or mechanics, make sure the timer relay can easily be found and make a note in the manual. When I do rewiring, be it for the EAS or winch in the Range Rover or the much more complicated case of wiring Range Rover cooling fans with override and custom dashboard switch layout in the Esprit, I tend to mark the changes on the inside of the fusebox and/or in the manual. Even if it's just for myself, should my memory fail me someday.

Greetz,

Filip

PS: I'm working on 'something' for the transfer case as well, be it still needs to be tested.
 

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I have spent a good deal of the past two days testing a couple of relays I had in the shop. For US/Canadian folks that don't have a spare relay sitting on the shelf I can confirm that NAPA/Echlin AR143, $12 at last check, work perfectly.
 
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