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Evening (depending on where you're from and when you read this), I hold this forum/site in the highest regards for Range Rover information, enthusiasm, and I've lurked in the forums for a few weeks reading up on potential issues with RR ownership. So, I obtained a 2000 4.6 HSE P38A (I live in the US) a few days ago and here are the known/perceived issues with it before what happened today (immobilization). I don't mean for this to sound long winded, but I prefer to add in these extra issues in hopes of finding some common element which may help diagnose the 5500lbs paperweight in the middle of the Gresham Home Depot parking lot.

1.) Buttons did not working on key fob, no red LED is ever lit. The other functions (cabin-wide (un)locking via driver door key way and engine ignition) worked normally with no problems until today. There was no battery message on the message center.

1a.) Spungey breaks and TC/ABS/PB(?) lights briefly on brake peddle depression - ABS accumulator?

2.) No cruise control, the enable button lights up - Vacuum hose?

3.) EAS non functional, but not riding on bump stops, no test lights after engine ignition, "EAS MANUAL" message - Probably a spring conversion since the ride height is pretty high even tho the valve block, solenoids, etc are still there. I haven't checked under the RR to see if the air springs are still there.

4.) Cheque book on HVAC controls intermittently - Probably a blending motor since the driver side usually blows hot when driver's side temp is set to low. The air supplied to the rear of the cabin only blows cool, even when temps are turned up. It will sometimes not show the book sign until I press the "Recirculate" button, other times it just lights up when not pressing anything. The pollen filters are filthy, but the fuse box and relays 6/7 show zero sign of faulting. They're perfectly clean with no bulging or signs of heat/cracking.

5.) Lights for the passenger increase/decrease temp, "AC OFF", and "recirculate" buttons will not illuminate at all.

6.) Using the driver's side temp adjustment controls only changes the passenger temp and not the driver's.

7.) Sunroof slowly opens and closes with a clicking sound.

8.) Sunroof shade/cover is very stiff and difficult to slide back and forward.

Alright, now for what happened today....

My fiancee was playing with the passenger side seat controls earlier in the day on the way to the store. After leaving the store and driving to Home Depot, the doors quickly locked and unlocked themselves maybe three or four times (only time that ever happened), I thought it was just her fiddling with things on the door panel. She said she didn't touch the lock knob and I believe her. Either way, we leave the store and walk to the RR... I unlock the door and only the driver's door unlocks. I think something may be wrong, I let her in and I try to start the engine... "ENGINE DISABLED, PRESS KEY".. I knew I was in trouble since I have a remote that didn't have any working buttons to press! I try every sync/resync and program/reprogram process given in the forums and main site with no luck.

I end up getting home and checking the batteries, the thin metal strip that contacted the positive ends on the battery and fob PCB was missing and a bare thin braided wire was rigged in there in its place. The problem was that the way it was rigged, which was run inside the battery holder and thus was grounding out on the top of the battery (which is in contact with the negative end of the top most battery since they're wired in series) which is closest to the PCB when everything is together and thus, not providing the proper 6v to the unit. I fashioned a proper substitute for the original flat metal piece and.. THE FOB IS ALIVE.. I THINK! The red LED flashes when I press either buttons, which is more than it was doing before. But, I don't know if that is how the fob is supposed to react. I also noticed that the flashing increases in speed after I hold a button down for more than one second. I assume that has to do with it giving a visual representation of being ready to be re-synced.

So again, I go to home depot armed with my key fob that I think works and try every sync/re-sync, program/reprogram method listed here and the main site.... nothing worked. Not even the easy sync by just putting it in the ignition. The mass cabin (un)locking still doesn't work either. Nothing changed, so it doesn't look like the syncing at all worked.

And here I am, curious as to why my RR with a seemingly good and working battery has a disabled engine and will not sync my key fob. I have a question or three about the EKA and syncing processes..

1.) Must all doors and windows be closed/locked to re-sync the key fob in the driver's door key way?
2.) Must the above, in addition to the seat belt be secured and/or the brake pedal be depressed to easy-sync the fob/re-mobilize the engine?
3.) When trying to sync the fob or input the EKA code in the door's key way, how long is the key held in positions unlock/lock/neutral?
4.) Also when trying to sync, by the method of hold the lock button, putting in the lock, turning to lock for three seconds, then neutral, the pulling it out and then releasing the button: Must I wait for the faster LED flashing before putting the key in the keyway? How long do I leave in the neutral position before and after having it in the lock position?
5.) When it says "ENGINE DISABLED, PRESS KEY" , Must I press lock or unlock on the fob while the key is in the ignition. (I know, it's stupid to ask, but I want things spelled out for people to read later.)

Well.. there you have it. My perhaps over-active mind trying to sort things out. I (and i'm sure anyone else reading this that is experiencing a similar problem) greatly appreciate your help. Thank you.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Try this:
1/ Open the Vehicle manually with the key (the alarm will be going off the whole time) and open the bonnet (it is extremely Important to leave the bonnet and the door open or you may be locked out).

2/ Disconnect the main 12 volt vehicle battery.

3/ Put key in ignition and turn to position II.

4/ Reconnect the Battery.(window unset alarms will be going off)

5/ Start the engine then push the lock and unlock buttons on the key while the engine is running.

6/ Open and close all the windows to reset them.

7/ You are done

Martin
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If this is Gresham OR Home Depot around 251st and Stark ( I lived by Glendoveer Golf Course until 2yrs ago), they might not help you with your re-sync, but thank god they had plumbing supplies to bypass my heater core explosion in my 98HSE!! ;)
Anyway, I have always found that if the keyfob is the one programmed for your Rover, ie not an ebay replacement, then the following method works without fail.
1 hold down lock or unlock on the remote (never both just to be clear). dont let go until this process is over.
2 insert key into drivers lock and turn to lock position. short pause.
3 turn key back to middle position. short pause.
4 turn key to unlock position. short pause.
5 turn key back to middle. short pause.
6 withdraw key and release button on remote. all this time light on remote has been flashing.

Your car should now be programmed to and respond to the remote.

If it does not... It is (a)not the remote for your rover, (b)remote is buggered, (c)keylock switch in drivers door is not working correctly (good dose of contact cleaner from the Home Depot you're stuck at might cure this), (d) door lock actuator in driver or passenger door needs replacement - if you ever had problems with tailgate release it points to the passenger actuator, or, worst case and highly unlucky scenario, (e) - as in sp(e)ndy! BECM is toast, or certainly needs some rejeuvenation by looking up the repair proceedures on here.

Me, I would be inclined to get in there and manually lock and unlock drivers and passengers interior locks a few times as you mentioned that your locking did the up/down bounce a few times. it may be a crusty connection on one actuator causing issues. Do the contact cleaner in the drivers keylock anyway. Try all this and the re-sync procedure. Failing this, it is a tow it to the dealer issue. The remote will program to the car with the method described if everything is working well enough at that time. At this point the 'Engine Disabled' message in the dash will disappear too.
Don't get too distracted with random posts or especially with "EKA" procedure posts, they DO NOT apply to North American spec vehicles. Just follow the proceedure I listed above.
I have never heard of the proceedure that leftlanetruckin posted before this one, I'm not saying it won't work, but my experience is that Engine Disabled means Engine Disabled. There is no disconnect the battery, reconnect it, hop in and the car will start. Believe me, mine never has! By him saying 'bonnet', I assume he is in the UK and they have a different becm security programming set up, if you were there you could just enter your 'code' by turning the drivers doorlock per the users manual and all would be right enough to get you home at least..

Let us know how you get on. Wishing you the best, this is one of those occasions where you wish your car didn't even come with a basic alarm system...

Dan
 

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The key fob sync method explained to me yesterday at local dealers for me to sync new fob is -
put key in door lock
hold down lock button and turn key to lock position - hold button - led on fob will start to flash rapidly then wait for it to stop flashing - release button
return key to center osition
press and hold unlock - turn to unlock position again wait for rapid flash to stop - return to center position and remove - fob synchronised

It doesn't actually matter if you do the lock or unlock 1st, just need to do both
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Dan,
That info is copy and pasted from this very site mate. Under the repair etc pages. Not my idea and I have never tried it, but obviously others have and it worked on his rig.
The whole page is here, I copied from @1/2 way down:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetail ... bilization
Just thought it easier to copy the relevant part.........My location is also posted under my user name, so I obviously am not in the UK :thumb:
I also just put the key in the door, press the button while locking etc, but even when the remote is not synch'd to the rig, I have NEVER got immobilized message (after having batteries disconnected etc), only difference I get is the remote will not lock/unlock the doors. Rig starts and runs perfectly with or without the remotes being synch'd for locking duties, so I do not think that has anything to do with it myself.

Martin
 

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When my P38 displayed "engine immobilized press remote",no amount of resyncing using any" guaranteed " method worked ,nor did entering the EKA code even thought my door lock switches worked correctly.
The BECM had gone into an " alarmed state" and in this mode it will not accept an fob resync or an EKA code.
The BECM had to be removed and sent to a specialist who has the necessary software to unlock the onboard processor programming lock out and then reset the BECM alarm status.
The alternative in this case is too replace the BECM with a new one programmed by the Dealer.

I spent weeks trying different methods to get it to work again ,to no avail. :crybaby2:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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A simple hook up to a dianostics machine Like the SC II could have saved you lots of time...


Just for future ref. ALL doors inc Bonnet and tail gate must be closed when entering EKA code
 

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leftlanetruckin said:
Dan,
That info is copy and pasted from this very site mate. Under the repair etc pages. Not my idea and I have never tried it, but obviously others have and it worked on his rig.
The whole page is here, I copied from @1/2 way down:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetail ... bilization
Just thought it easier to copy the relevant part.........My location is also posted under my user name, so I obviously am not in the UK :thumb:
I also just put the key in the door, press the button while locking etc, but even when the remote is not synch'd to the rig, I have NEVER got immobilized message (after having batteries disconnected etc), only difference I get is the remote will not lock/unlock the doors. Rig starts and runs perfectly with or without the remotes being synch'd for locking duties, so I do not think that has anything to do with it myself.

Martin
Hey Martin,

Wasn't trying to pick holes in your post specifically, sorry if it came across that way. When I got the engine immobilized notice on the dash after an electrical fault drained my battery whilst shopping, I went back into wallymart and bought a new battery. That brought it to life but the key wasn't sync'd with the truck and so wouldn't start it either, let alone unlock the doors.. Battery was dead in the fob too (dashboard had been warning me for weeks!) so back into wallymart I went to get the cr3032s or whatever they were.
I assumed at this point the transponder in the key and the ignition lock area would talk to eachother and the truck would start.. Nope, the engine was still immobized. I called my dealer and they finally (after I convinced them that towing it 130 miles wasn't an option!) talked me through the process described to get the truck to start. This seemed to sync the fob to the truck in two ways, engine lockout and the remote lock & unlock.
I am trying to save this guy a trip to the dealer if possible. I hope all the advice and proceedures he gets here will get him out of Home Depot.
When did you leave Blackpool (now I looked at your location!)? I moved from Manchester about 10yrs ago to Portland OR and then here to South Padre Island TX in 2008.

Cheers all.
Dan
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Dan,
Hopefully the OP will try everything listed here and have some success then mate!
I dont think any one fix cures the issues these things have at times.....Thank God we took the plunge and bought a Faultmate!
I am actually from Oldham, then moved to Blackpool, then St Annes before I came over here in '99. Not been back since.... :lol:

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So here's the update:

No sync'ing worked, and the dealer couldn't get the fob sync'ed either. They discovered the BeCM being in the wrong "market" and was reprogrammed. I also had key ordered for $267.. annnnd.. that's it. The door locks are still randomly (un)locking at times and I wish I knew what was causing that. I assume it's the door switch, but I don't exactly know how to check that.

I'm sorry I couldn't provide any better details. But, thank you for your suggestions and I'll keep them in mind should anything wrong happen again (with a working remote, hopefully.)

What kind of tools do you guys keep in your rovers for roadside emergencies? I've been entertaining the idea of piecing together a metric tool kit to stow away in case I need them.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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The 'EAS MANUAL' which beeps up on the display sounds like the Atlantic British coil spring conversion kit has been fitted to the car. Explains why the EAS hasn't gone down and also why it isn't working. :lol:
 
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