RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
It looks like i'm going to be replacing a few rear diff studs shortly (ie when they arrive), as my quick-change rear diff replacement foundered as I encountered the 20 year old fixings to the axle casing. I have a really good Irwin nut remover for removing rounded nuts - but it turns out it grips things well enough to shear the studs clean off. I may use heat on the last few.

So has anyone replaced the studs - looks like they "press" out, and no doubt are loctited in. What kind of press/ tool/ contraption should I use? Not sure I want to whack the stud with a hammer, or is that exactly what IS required? Most folks seem to have avoided shearing the studs, but the back end of mine was waded at some point, so quite rusty. I dont' suppose it's that hard, but if anyone with prev experience has any pearls of wisdom, please share

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p81815?r=googleshopping&rr=marin&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz93cBRCrARIsAEFbWsicFyPLUmrLBmKYQrv0uXL6R_xBNFMwUuNI7PDZ5PFLCmsuFEvD7M8aAlHqEALw_wcB
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,821 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
496 Posts
not shore which nuts your talking about exactly but the studs holding the diff in the banjo housing are usually press studs , just use a drift or punch to remove. with the diff removed just feel inside housing and the back of the stud will be flat not hexed. hope this helps.
if they are threaded you will feel that from side housing as well
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,821 Posts
you are dead on mad, the studs are press fit, not threaded... at least on pre 99 P38s. Still a stud remover will pop them free and twist them out with very little effort.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
41 Posts
I've just done this on my 1998 whilst rebuilding the axle.

On mine, the studs were press fit, with splines to grip the holes in the axle casing - they were not difficult to drift out.

When inserting your new stud, try and align the splines on the stud to the original splines in the casing.

Most of mine just pulled in when I tightened the nuts up - I used a piece of tube so I could do the job with the diff out and see in the axle casing to make sure all was well.

One or two needed help with a hammer, but they all went in fine in the end.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks P39, that's an interesting looking vehicle collection you have ! I undid the rest of the nylocs this morning and I'll need to redo two studs at least, and will probably run a UNF die over the surviving ones before mounting the recon diff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
BTW in case it wasn't clear from my original post, I was only using the Irwin nut remover to remove the Nyloc nuts, and not to get the studs out. I thought the Irwin nut removers were a bit of a joke when I bought them (but for that particular job I was running out of options), so was just remarking how effective they are at gripping rounded nuts - sorry if I confused things.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
indeed as stated the studs are spline press on fit, a smaller version of wheel stud fit. curious as the nuts are softer metal than the studs, on a few occasions I have damaged the nut and the stud has remained intact. oh well anything can happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
481 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Replacing the studs is child-play, as it turns out - whereas removing a hub when the Axle/ hub bolt heads have corroded away is anything but, I had to grind all the bolt heads off. Not sure my POs believed in replacing damaged bolts for new ones, and it's 10 years by the seaside, have taken its toll
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top