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So.... I went to see a 2001 30th anniversary P38. The owner was leaving the country for a new post and needed to sell it. We haggled and negotiated back and forth and I finally got it for $1500.

She has 160K on the clock with a head gasket replacement 10K miles ago. She is filthy inside - PO was a mechanic and it shows. While the car was maintained, it was not exactly kept clean... LOL!

Like any other P38... she needs a few things. Plan is to restore it, keep it and drive it. I figured if there was one P38 to keep, it would be something like this. So I am back in the fold again. Let's see how it goes third time around.

She needs:

1. Tires all around - just got a set on 2003 wheels (19"). Not too fond of them.
2. Oil Change
3. Service - Oil filter (got a free one), maybe plugs, certainly air filter, etc.
4. Missing Rear lights brush gaurds.
5. Interior needs a serious deep cleaning.
6. Trim on Arm rests missing - might just replace them whole down the line.
7. Front window regulators - both are bad.
8. Battery cover
9. Possibly new amp - I have no sound even though navigation and screen work.
10. Cabin air filters.
11. Fluids - I would like to do the transmission and transfer case and then service the differentials.
12. Grease - Grease all the necessary parts of the axles, etc.
13. Re-Balance wheels - I have a bad vibration / slight wobble at 60 MPH +, seems to be from the right / pax side.

Those are the immediate things that come to mind. I gave it a good wash today - the outside. Then crazy me decided to clean the engine, so off I went with the hose and cleaner. After cleaning - she rewarded me with the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. It was flashing at first. now it is just lit up. Will need to scan for codes.

Car still runs okay, however it has a slightly erratic idle. I cleaned the air filter and it seemed to improve a bit so I will replace that. Hopefully, I will be able to figure out the Check Engine Light thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got to spend some time with "Brittainny" today, her name is short for Brittania - if you can call that short... LOL! :p

I took some better iPhone pictures...










30th Anniversary...






This Steering Wheel Had me confused till the PO told me he had it redone...






 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was able to give her an oil change today and had my first chance to get under her. There are a few issues. There was a lot of oil under there. However, I did notice some tell tale signs some one had worked on the engine before. I could see RTV material around the lower Oil Pan and evidence it had been removed before.


First Under Belly Inspection and Oil Change




PO did tell me the heads were done about 11K miles ago. Some of the oil was really old and had a fair amount road grime built up. Considering how dirty the interior is, I can surmise she sadly wasn't washed often enough - least of all the engine bay. I think I am going give it a really good clean again.

In Other News, the Check Engine Light was gone this morning and I was happy to see she was not on her bump stops this morning.

In case anyone cares to know, I used 10W/40 oil in it. In Summer, I might use up my supply of 20W/50 Oil.

Here are some pictures from underneath:


Front Differential with built up oil and grime




The Lower Oil Pan Area




Looks like she was taken off road and someone high sided or high ended her.






Looks like I found a contributor to my vibration at speed. Ball joint stabilizer arm (?) is dead


 

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Even with those issues, that is still an absolute bargain at $1500!!! That is about £1200 here and that is a serious bargain. She has cleaned up beautiful on the exterior and looking at your garage and equipment, I suspect the underside will be as clean in the near future. There is nothing seriously wrong with her and she looks lovely.
I suspect the CEL was due to the thorough washing she has had and dampness which would explain it being out today.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cheers Shep. They are actually pretty cheap these days. Sadly, people are wary of them and there are now three later generations to pick from. People are dumping them quite a bit these days. I however still love them. Unfortunately, that is not my garage - I wish it were. That is my friend's shop.


Other Issues I realized with this car are:

No Heat! UGH! I am dreading that this is due to a bad heater core or something like that. Ahh well.... add to my to do list shall we?
 

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No Heat! UGH! I am dreading that this is due to a bad heater core or something like that. Ahh well.... add to my to do list shall we?
It's a constant flow heater. Feel the heater feed and return hoses at bulkhead under bonnet (hood!) when car up to temp. If both hot, problem likely to lie with heater unit control systems or motors.(or someone's put a loop in pipe behind dash bypassing core). If only one hot there's a blockage/ disconnection/ air lock somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's a constant flow heater. Feel the heater feed and return hoses at bulkhead under bonnet (hood!) when car up to temp. If both hot, problem likely to lie with heater unit control systems or motors.(or someone's put a loop in pipe behind dash bypassing core). If only one hot there's a blockage/ disconnection/ air lock somewhere
Cheers! Knowing my bleeding luck, it won't be something simple and easy. I was actually just reading up on this "heat" issue in the P38 - sadly seems commonplace. I will check the hoses as suggested. You don't per chance have an image or picture do you?

If the heater core was bypassed, is this reversible? Since the A/C and Cold air seem to work fine and actually, the display on the controller is near perfect - would that eliminate the HVAC controller from the list of culprits?
 

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Cheers! Knowing my bleeding luck, it won't be something simple and easy. I was actually just reading up on this "heat" issue in the P38 - sadly seems commonplace. I will check the hoses as suggested. You don't per chance have an image or picture do you?
If the heater core was bypassed, is this reversible? Since the A/C and Cold air seem to work fine and actually, the display on the controller is near perfect - would that eliminate the HVAC controller from the list of culprits?
I've found a pic from a GEMS (yours is a Bosch) but the heater pipe runs are the same
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j134/geuze_2006/DSCN1639.jpg
The heater hoses go onto the 2 empty metal pipes sticking out of the bulkhead.
Do you have a "chequebook" symbol showing on the HEVAC panel? If so, indicates a fault on the "non-wet" side. Do you have access to P38 specific diagnostics? If so, read the fault codes. If not and you're going to maintain your own car, consider buying appropriate diagnostics. There's a whole diagnostics thread discussing which is best.
 

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Cheers Shep. They are actually pretty cheap these days. Sadly, people are wary of them and there are now three later generations to pick from. People are dumping them quite a bit these days. I however still love them. Unfortunately, that is not my garage - I wish it were. That is my friend's shop.
Really?? perhaps I should have come out to the US to buy my latest one. I had a 2003 L322 and just changed back to a 2001 P38. Mine is in similar condition to yours and mine cost me the equivalent of $7k!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've found a pic from a GEMS (yours is a Bosch) but the heater pipe runs are the same
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j134/geuze_2006/DSCN1639.jpg
The heater hoses go onto the 2 empty metal pipes sticking out of the bulkhead.
Do you have a "chequebook" symbol showing on the HEVAC panel? If so, indicates a fault on the "non-wet" side. Do you have access to P38 specific diagnostics? If so, read the fault codes. If not and you're going to maintain your own car, consider buying appropriate diagnostics. There's a whole diagnostics thread discussing which is best.
Brilliant! Thanks for the picture. I do indeed have that book symbol on my HEVAC panel. I wonder if that was a joke on LR's part, like "get ready to spend loads a money." LOL! Anyway, so that indicates there is a fault. I missed that when I was checking the car out. Drat!

I don't have access to P38 specific diagnostics, but I might be able to get a local shop to scan it for me. I wonder if a general scanner would work on these cars? Like one from an auto store?

What kind of diagnostics stuff can I get for a P38? Are there specific scanners, software, etc? I am sure that is a question that has been asked a million times, you can just send me off in the right direction if you don't mind.

Really?? perhaps I should have come out to the US to buy my latest one. I had a 2003 L322 and just changed back to a 2001 P38. Mine is in similar condition to yours and mine cost me the equivalent of $7k!!!
$7K? I guess it also depends on when you bought it? I bought my first one back in 2003 or so for around $15K. Also... this car is starting to show it's issues. Might not be such a smoking deal in the long run.
 

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I don't have access to P38 specific diagnostics, but I might be able to get a local shop to scan it for me. I wonder if a general scanner would work on these cars? Like one from an auto store?
What kind of diagnostics stuff can I get for a P38? Are there specific scanners, software, etc? I am sure that is a question that has been asked a million times, you can just send me off in the right direction if you don't mind.
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/12-diagnostic-equipment/ will lead you through discussions on diagnostics kit. Generic code scanners will pick up some things, but to get into all of the systems you'll need to get a breed specific one. Have a look at BBS Nano, Faultmate, EASUnlock v4 for examples, but there are as many opinions on which is best as there are bits of kit! Check back on Diagnostics thread when you've decided which one to get and I'm sure you'll get many opinions as to why you shouldn't get it. The cheaper the kit, the less likely it is to do everything that you need!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the information chaps. I will start boning up and trying to learn as much as I can. Excuse the novice questions for now :)
 

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So.... I did some more work on Brittainy today. First I washed the engine bay again, this time I focused more on the underside as I could now see my way around better. I also cleaned the transfer case, front and rear differentials / axles. I added the use of some gunk remover to this task which seemed to help.

The Check Light came on for about 15 miles after the wash, but I was expecting. It is out again, so that is good.

After the wash, it was time to clean the interior of the car which was bugging the heck out of me. Pictures can't really show you how bad it was. There was grime everywhere and in all the nooks and crannies of this car. The area around the radio was especially bad.

Any-hoo.... I divided this task into three parts or battles. The Battle for the Trunk / Boot, the Battle for Cabin (Rear) and the Battle for the Cabin (front). All went well with a few little niggling issues here and there. The interior of the car is SO SO MUCH better now. Phew!

In the trunk I took it apart pretty much. Out came the spare, the took kit and even the mold the tools live in. I then cleaned the whole trunk out including the spare wheel well.

I unfortunately didn't have the time to take all the pictures I would have liked to take, but I will share some.

First the trunk. As I mentioned, I took everything out. I was not able to take a before picture, but here we are, I am 1/2 way through the task. Just putting things back in place, first the tool bucket:




I cleaned all the tools before putting them back. Here they are back home in the tool bucket where they belong:




Here is the trunk area all done. Not quite perfect just yet, but significantly cleaner than before:




While I was there, I decided to see if I could figure out lack of sound by checking on the Amp. Here is what I found. Is this the stock P38 Amp (see picture below)?



Does anyone know where the amp is if that is not it? Trying to figure out why I get no sound from the stereo system. Cheers!


And..... back to our cleaning tasks. Next, I tackled the cabin. First I removed the rear carpets ( I will be getting those properly washed), then it was time to vacuum all that crap out of there .... ewww:








After some serious elbow grease, I think I made a mark:





After I was done, I then tackled the front area. It was the worst part. I took my time and cleaned everything - radio fascia, HEVAC, Navigation screen, ashtray and that area, arm rests, cubby hole with arm rest,

I was able to complete everything, I will see if I can get final pictures of the cabin.
 

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ewww...the car really was filthy...well not any more as mine was when I got it...but after few hours of cleaning, it got nicer :) so kudos!
about the amp - it is located behind the twin woofer system, embedded inside the chassis itself...mine is not working also, could be disconnected wire could be burnt AMP...but if you don't check it you wouldn't know...
 

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As DM says, the amp is inside that enclosure. I don't suppose it's as simple as re-connecting the cable that looks unplugged on the rhs (nearest back seat) side of the unit?!
These DSP amps are infamous for dying though. For that reason, replacements, even used, are expensive. Just search on DSP amp and you'll see many threads on the subject.
 
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