You can pinpoint if it's a pre or post block issue by swapping the front bag airlines at the block. If it's still the left bag dropping, it's a problem after the block.
Did I screw up the Valve Block Rebuild??
So, not to add to the thousands of EAS posts, but I can't help it! Note I have read through countless posts on the EAS and they have been tremendously helpful, but I just want to get feedback on my latest.
History of EAS fixes:
1. Truck ran perfect, no EAS issues, held overnight with no problems. However, frequent EAS Fault of "pressure switch constantly high", etc and other erratic behaviour let me to replace the drivebox. Since then, no more faults, no more random behavior.
All good for one week.
2. Truck appeared to start squatting at the rear overnight especially the passenger side. Found leak at right rear bag when in access mode. No other leaks detected. Replaced both rears.
Now squats evenly.
3. Read numerous posts about this and determined must need a valve block rebuild as I had a hunch air was leaking from the non-return valves. Went ahead hand rebuilt Valve Block as RoverRenovations indicated. Found that one of the non-return valve o-rings was mishapen.
Worked perfect for two weeks.
NOW, I'm getting some dancing from the front at stoplights on occassion (non-returns still leaking I suppose). I'm also getting the compressor short cycling. Most importantly, the passenger front bag lowers to bump stop in about 30 minutes, yet I cannot detect any leaks at block, connections, or bags.
SO, sounds like my rebuild didn't hold up much. Any direction would be great, anything to avoid pulling the block back out.
Thanks Guys!
History of EAS fixes:
1. Truck ran perfect, no EAS issues, held overnight with no problems. However, frequent EAS Fault of "pressure switch constantly high", etc and other erratic behaviour let me to replace the drivebox. Since then, no more faults, no more random behavior.
All good for one week.
2. Truck appeared to start squatting at the rear overnight especially the passenger side. Found leak at right rear bag when in access mode. No other leaks detected. Replaced both rears.
Now squats evenly.
3. Read numerous posts about this and determined must need a valve block rebuild as I had a hunch air was leaking from the non-return valves. Went ahead hand rebuilt Valve Block as RoverRenovations indicated. Found that one of the non-return valve o-rings was mishapen.
Worked perfect for two weeks.
NOW, I'm getting some dancing from the front at stoplights on occassion (non-returns still leaking I suppose). I'm also getting the compressor short cycling. Most importantly, the passenger front bag lowers to bump stop in about 30 minutes, yet I cannot detect any leaks at block, connections, or bags.
SO, sounds like my rebuild didn't hold up much. Any direction would be great, anything to avoid pulling the block back out.
Thanks Guys!
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
That makes perfect sense, I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
By the way, I really like that Madison quote in your signature!
By the way, I really like that Madison quote in your signature!
Thanks. Someday I'll figure out what the hell "usurpations" means. :think:
Dancing at the lights sounds like nonreturn valves... make sure that there is absolutely no grease etc on the NR valve 0-rings nor in the valve seat...has to be "sterile" clean!! good luck!
Hi all "USURPATION" wrongfully take power, authority, position, person who does this. good luck Sillyboy east london.
Thanks kmagnuss, that was a great way to sort the problem. Found the front bags were now leaking, with a huge leak at one side. Just replaced with a set of Arnott's and now it appears to be holding. Cold is most certainly the enemy of the air suspension, I figure if I get everything sorted this winter, summer should be good to go. I'll keep my eye on those non-return valves and report back!
Should have known...the only parts I didn't service/replace needed it. To all those servicing their air shocks, just save yourself the grief and do all 4 at once. It's easy enough to do, even without removing the wheels or fender linings.
Should have known...the only parts I didn't service/replace needed it. To all those servicing their air shocks, just save yourself the grief and do all 4 at once. It's easy enough to do, even without removing the wheels or fender linings.
I can't take credit... it was Shupack's idea in a different thread.
Glad u got it worked out. :clap:
Glad u got it worked out. :clap:
kmagnuss said:I can't take credit... it was Shupack's idea in a different thread.
Glad u got it worked out. :clap:
And grasshopper has the pebble....
Back and forth we go!! Well, the new Arnott's held up all night, now the rear's have renewed their nightly sag, althought not as bad. The front has stopped dancing, but I still think the non-return must be leaking overnight. I will cleanup the connections to the new Protier rear bags, but I'm still not really pleased with that purchase. I can't see any leak there, but I just don't have confidence in them...the build quality was poor...stick with Arnott's or OEMs.
Any last suggestions before I pull the valve block back out would be great.
Any last suggestions before I pull the valve block back out would be great.
Leaky non return valves will NOT affect the springs overnight. The NRV's are ony in use when air is purposely being moved arround.
Oh ok, with new rear bags and no visible leaks at the connections, what do you think would cause the rear to sag evenly overnight with the EAS disabled?
A leak somewhere.
Maybe the connection on the bags...or somewhere in the valve block.
Maybe the connection on the bags...or somewhere in the valve block.
Well, I determined there must be a small leak at both rear bags. After fiddling with the connections for a few hours, I did get them to hold dramatically better, but it still drops a little over night. What infuriates me the most is that the connections on these bags are total trash compared to the Arnotts or OEMs. They are not even removable and appear to be a much thinner brass.
I even used new lines and they still leak a little. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting a better seal? I had the best luck with petroleum jelly. I've read around about some "swimming pool" sealant or something to that affect. I also realize this is not the professional repair, but I'm still convinced I made the big mistake by purchasing these Protier bags for the rear.
I even used new lines and they still leak a little. Does anyone have any suggestions for getting a better seal? I had the best luck with petroleum jelly. I've read around about some "swimming pool" sealant or something to that affect. I also realize this is not the professional repair, but I'm still convinced I made the big mistake by purchasing these Protier bags for the rear.
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
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