Broken the top hat? I don't know much about it but it was commonly mentioned on the Bill Caloccia's Coil Sprung List.
Did I break the distributor changing a rotor??
My son bought a 1995 Range Rover, County LWB, 150k miles, we decided to tune it up, I got the parts, plugs, wires, cap, & rotor,
Put everything on, no problems, the rotor was a little tough to pull off, but not bad, took it off by hand, well, it won't start now, it was running fine before I started working on it & now nothing, I've checked the firing order 10X, checked everything is seated/connected at the cap & plugs, etc. Need help figuring this out
Put everything on, no problems, the rotor was a little tough to pull off, but not bad, took it off by hand, well, it won't start now, it was running fine before I started working on it & now nothing, I've checked the firing order 10X, checked everything is seated/connected at the cap & plugs, etc. Need help figuring this out
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The plastic cover is intact, I can lift up the rotor and rotate it, maybe rotated it when pulling it off, need to know how to ID if i've broken something, or just screwed up alignment / timing, if broke, how to fix, if not, procedure to re-align. Truck was running fine, hoping this is something simple, son supposed to be returning to school today, so if deadlines, I've got a problem
Did I break the distributor changing a roto
I just read this for the first time. Did you resolve the problem? When I do my complete tune ups and replace mine, I always break them by hitting the top gently with a hammer. Never pull them.
I just read this for the first time. Did you resolve the problem? When I do my complete tune ups and replace mine, I always break them by hitting the top gently with a hammer. Never pull them.
Did I break the distributor changing a roto
Hi
probably not, but you probably unclutch the momentum advance in pulling the rotor. Or take out the recall springs.
First, you have to take out the ignition head to check if everything is in good place (if you fear about it, take a pict of each step of dismounting). When the head is OK, if you turn a little bit the rotor counter clock wise, you should feel a little resistance, and then the rotor is coming back in place. NEVER Pull the rotor...
When your head is checked, you have to do a basic timing of your ignition, at least to start the engine.
1 Get the #1 piston at the upper point in the #1 cylinder. Remove the plug, to check it, and align the pulley on 3° before (first mark left from the center one).
2 Get the tail of the oil pump 45° up (odd side)
3 Insert the the ignition head The rotor shoud be 30° before the desired position (just before the clip). If you can not engage the head, one is pushing gently while the second turn the pulley, until the ignition head is back in position.
4 Check again the pulley on 3°
5 Turn slowly the rotor to align the magnet.
6 Get back the cap and check your leads
7 Try to start. If it does'nt start, you are maybe timed on the exhaust time and not on the spark time. Unplug your leads and plug them at 180° of the first configuration. The #1 is in that case on engine side and not on radiator side. Keep the good order to replug all your leads.
8 If it start that way, remove the cap, take out the ignition head to disengage the rotor (don't pull on the rotor but the head). When the rotor is free to turn, turn it 180 °, and get back in place the head), then restore your lead properly.
I hope it's clear, i miss of vocabulary in english, sorry. All the process will take 2 or 3 hours including the complete checking of the ignition head)
Sunny greatings
Greenislander
Hi
probably not, but you probably unclutch the momentum advance in pulling the rotor. Or take out the recall springs.
First, you have to take out the ignition head to check if everything is in good place (if you fear about it, take a pict of each step of dismounting). When the head is OK, if you turn a little bit the rotor counter clock wise, you should feel a little resistance, and then the rotor is coming back in place. NEVER Pull the rotor...
When your head is checked, you have to do a basic timing of your ignition, at least to start the engine.
1 Get the #1 piston at the upper point in the #1 cylinder. Remove the plug, to check it, and align the pulley on 3° before (first mark left from the center one).
2 Get the tail of the oil pump 45° up (odd side)
3 Insert the the ignition head The rotor shoud be 30° before the desired position (just before the clip). If you can not engage the head, one is pushing gently while the second turn the pulley, until the ignition head is back in position.
4 Check again the pulley on 3°
5 Turn slowly the rotor to align the magnet.
6 Get back the cap and check your leads
7 Try to start. If it does'nt start, you are maybe timed on the exhaust time and not on the spark time. Unplug your leads and plug them at 180° of the first configuration. The #1 is in that case on engine side and not on radiator side. Keep the good order to replug all your leads.
8 If it start that way, remove the cap, take out the ignition head to disengage the rotor (don't pull on the rotor but the head). When the rotor is free to turn, turn it 180 °, and get back in place the head), then restore your lead properly.
I hope it's clear, i miss of vocabulary in english, sorry. All the process will take 2 or 3 hours including the complete checking of the ignition head)
Sunny greatings
Greenislander
Did I break the distributor changing a roto
If you just pulled off the rotor arm, then it is very likely that you have disenganged either the bottom bearing in the distributor or the bob weights. There is a reluctor (star shaped thing on the distributor shaft under the arm) which you can hold down with a screw driver when pulling the rotor arm to prevent this. You may need to take the distributor off, strip and re-assemble it to fix the problem.
I also found this the "hard way"
If you just pulled off the rotor arm, then it is very likely that you have disenganged either the bottom bearing in the distributor or the bob weights. There is a reluctor (star shaped thing on the distributor shaft under the arm) which you can hold down with a screw driver when pulling the rotor arm to prevent this. You may need to take the distributor off, strip and re-assemble it to fix the problem.
I also found this the "hard way"
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