[dmm698]

a little bit of backround. rover went into a hard fault and i just replaced the bags last night. today I manually jumped it up per the tips on the site. After doing the passenger side ones i was no longer getting a constant at the #1 pin. So i used a 12 volt source from the stereo to jump the pump to run the other two springs full enough for me to drive to the friends house with the rover software. I got there and he could read the current settings of the suspension and run all other operations but the computer kept giving us a message that the connection could not be made and to recycle the ingnition. i tried to put a 12v wire into the #1 pin and have him hook up the laptop to see if that would give the eas ecu power and clear the faults but to no avail. im kind of out of ideas. Anybody know what pin should be ground and what should be power? when i used a test meter at his shop it was saying the #1 pin was giving me a ground?

 

[Goatwerks]

Power from pin 1 comes from the timer, if door is closed, only works for 1 min.
Make shure the wire is not pinched and the terminal is not hogged out from jumping the circuit. Also check anything you previously touched to verify all connections and fuses

 

[dmm698]

the doors were never locked. i checked all fuses in the engine compartment and all had power on both sides, as did all of the fuses in the fuse box under the right hand seat. im really stumped.

 

[RRToadHall]

Just a thought here, but you do know that the EAS does not activate until all doors, hatch and tailgate are closed.

 

[dmm698]

yeah i know that eas wont activate with doors open, but would that effect the ability for the computer to sync up with the system?

 

[ncng]

Someone recommended me to this sight, I think its the best investment you can make. The Buddy Box. I would get the one that you can download errors.

http://www.rswsolutions.com/

I am not associated in any way, jsut passing on the good advice I got thanks to this forum.

Mark

 

[shupack]

pin 1 is +12v, 18 is ground.

the comms problem is a bad wire, in the kick panel just forward of the hood release (bonnet pull) on LHD models. There's 2 white mulit-plugs that according to Murphy, the pollen filters will leak onto and corrode the connectors. Again Mr Murphy postulates that the one wire that goes bad is one of the EAS comms wires, fix it and all is well. Took me 3 weeks to find that on Darcy,

 

[dmm698]

yeah i checked those white plugs and there was no corrosion. i took it into my work today, keeler motor car, and hooked it up to their computer and the computer hooked right up and cleared my fault, im all set now. must of been my friends laptop.

 

[P38 Paul]

What is the colour/s of the wire that goes bad on the EAS comms?

 

[Richard_G]

As the thread dates back to 2009 and the suggestion of a bad wire came from a member that hasn't been seen since 2012, I doubt you'll get a reply. Nearly all of the connections to the OBD connector go via the white multiway connector behind the RH kick panel which, as said, does corrode. Cut each wire out one at a time and solder link wires through. A similar connector is behind the LH kick panel which carries the connections between the EAS ECU and the dashboard switch and display so that one is worth doing too..

 

[P38 Paul]

Ok thanks for the info, I tried a quick clean of the connectors last week to no avail but I am going to try a thorough clean of the connector on both sides & see if that will cure it, if not I will be cutting the wires as you have suggested, I will get back to you with any progress made, regards Paul.

 

[Richard_G]

The other thing that prevents diagnostics connecting to the EAS is replacing the timer relay with a standard 4 pin one. People do it to prevent the timer waking the system up and self levelling but if it has been swapped, diagnostics will not connect.