RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, My P38 has been dead for 9 weeks now and eka not working, I live in Malta and there is no one on this island that can help me.
I am somehow technical myself if there is someone who can lead me to what I need to Unlock the car I would be very gratefull.
I have already shipped BeCM to the UK to get it unlocked, cost me yet another fortune but still aint working (Engine Disabled).
1998 P38 Petrol V8 with Gems ECU .

Help Please
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,820 Posts
Re: Diagnostic help needed

It would help to know what your original symptoms were and what you have done thus far. If your only issue is a disabled engine then it is most likely that your engine code sync has been lost. Have you had other issues leading up to this? For instance if you had key or latch issues you may need to replace your latch assembly in order to get your EKA operational again. Unfortunately we just don't have enough info...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi
Well it all started with the Fob battery getting out of place and it lost code for the car. I found a guy which has a rovacom pro, he took the car and managed to start it up again. he mentioned that he had to buy an add on software to disarm the BECM. In the meen time I had ordered a door latch and the signal reciever for the Key-fob because I had read that there was an issue with Mobile Phone Antennas which I'm surrounded with. The day I got the car back I replaced both parts and I made sure that the Latch Microswitches work as they should. After putting everything back together I locked the car (which I had already done times before).When I went back after 1 min or 2 the car wouldn't unlock and the EKA wouldn't work. Next day called the guy again explained everything and after a week he came to have a look but this time he couldn't get the Becm to comunicate because it was in Alarmed State.He even tried that software he purchased for this particular issue which was supposed to DISARM the Becm but still wouldn't work. We noticed that all doors where locked except the tailgate, so I dismantled the lock and found one wire had broke off from the microswitch (EKA Won't work if not all doors are locked) . I fixed it, tested it by turning on rear wiper and opening the tailgate, Wiper stopped where it didn't used to before, EKA still wouldn't work.

This person gets support from someone in the UK because he never worked on a P38 before but at least he is trying to help. The UK contact told us to ship the BeCM to him because he had to unlock it using some Direct memory access or something close. We got it back, plugged it in following his instructions but the car was still Alarmed and Engine Disabled. The problem is that guy lives far away from me and he is very buzy besides he has to get instructions from UK and then relay back the failures we encountered and its taking too long and i'm not seeing any progress. Till now I spent close to €900 because of this issue and nine weeks of pain running around in my wife's little Citroen and I'm very Very worried.

Thanks
Desperate Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
820 Posts
You didn't mention if your key fobs are working?

If your alarm & immobilser are still active then you will have to enter the EKA code if you can't resync the fobs.

I've PM'd you some info you can try.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,820 Posts
Also remember to be careful and double check all of your work BEFORE trying the EKA procedure. If you try too many times with the wrong code, or if you enter it incorrectly, your BeCM will go into alarmed status again which will require a second trip to the UK for service.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Rick-the-Pick said:
You didn't mention if your key fobs are working?
I only have 1 keyfob and as far as I know it works, its the same fob i locked the car with before all this nighmare started and if I press the buttons the little LED on the FOB starts blinking.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,820 Posts
scilia said:
Rick-the-Pick said:
You didn't mention if your key fobs are working?
I only have 1 keyfob and as far as I know it works, its the same fob i locked the car with before all this nighmare started and if I press the buttons the little LED on the FOB starts blinking.
Did it ever lock and unlock the truck? When you say the LED blinks and don't say anything else it sounds as if it isn't working now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Yes it used to lock and unlock the car but not any more now only the LED on the key blinks when I press the buttons on it.
Did I say something wrong before>

Steve
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,855 Posts
scilia said:
Yes it used to lock and unlock the car but not any more now only the LED on the key blinks when I press the buttons on it.
Did I say something wrong before>

Steve
Having a flashing LED on the remote means almost nothing (apart from there is a battery in there).

The handset sends out a different 'tune' every time it is pressed (- so that people can't 'grab' your tune then replay it back to the car, to get in). For the handset to unlock the car/BECM, the handset and BECM need to be 'synchronised'. Synchronising, means the BECM knows which 'tune' the handset has last sent, and knows where in the sequence of possible 'tunes' it is up to. The procedure to synchronise the remote handset to BECM differs slightly through the model years (and also reportedly through delivery countries). For me, the way I synchronise, is to lock the drivers door with the key, then press the handset 'lock' button (within about 3-5 seconds). If the two resynchronise, you will hear the central locking trigger/lock as you press lock on the handset.

When you turn the key in the door lock, does the central locking on the other doors lock/unlock? Does the tailgate locking, mimic the locking status of the drivers door? When the drivers' door is locked, what is the status of the red LED at the base of the screen? Also, what does the LED at teh base of the screen do, when the drivers door is unlocked by the key?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I understand that the fob/becm have to be synced and I'm 100% sure I need to do it especially after I replaced the batteries again. Currently all doors including tailgate are locked I can only open the driver door with the key. When I hook up the car battery the central locking on all doors/tailgate will lock even though they are already locked. When I turn the key in the door lock clockwise or anti clockwise only the driver door will lock and unlock and the indicator lights flash once on every turn. If I turn the key twice in a fast motion clockwise or anticlockwise all doors will lock again and after that the indicator light flash 3 times on every turn of the key and it stays like this until I diconnect the car battery.
I have tried resyncing the key with your method many times but nothing happened and my mechanic told me that 98 > models cannot resync that way.
My rescny method should be by putting the key in the egnition for a few seconds but if the car is armed resyncing won't work.
Any other options would be greatly appreciated!!

Thanks
Steve
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,820 Posts
I don't remember, but don't the keys have to be synched in order to do the EKA? Also, since you changed out the receiver for the key fob to a different frequency, are you positive the new receiver is compatible with the frequescy of your fob? If I were in your shoes I'd be putting the old receiver back in and trying the synch process. If your fob then works you have eliminated one error. If you can then complete the EKA you may be back up and running if you have not put the BeCM back into an alarmed status.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I thought about changing the reciever back to the old one but since I fixed the microswitch on the tailgate now its locked and I have to see if i'm able to access it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,855 Posts
scilia said:
I thought about changing the reciever back to the old one but since I fixed the microswitch on the tailgate now its locked and I have to see if i'm able to access it.
Accessing the boot space is easy enough from the rear seats:
put your fingers down each side of the loadspace cover and fold it in the same way, as if you were behind the car; once folded, push the loadspace cover rearwards and it can be removed; then fold one/both rear seats and your in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,855 Posts
rrtoadhall said:
I don't remember, but don't the keys have to be synched in order to do the EKA?
Nope, the EKA is Emergency Key Access, i.e. the thing you use when your remote & becm have lost sync. EKA (when correctly entered/received by BECM) just turns the immobiliser off, allowing you to start the engine. IIRC, even correct EKA access, still leaves the alarm partially active - i.e. bonnet (I think). So if you open the bonnet after using EKA then it won't work, I think, as it still thinks you're trying to 'hotwire' the engine...

Scilia, you've mentioned several times about connecting/reconnecting the battery. To do this I'm guessing you had the bonnet open? When you were doing the rest of the EKA/synching procedure, did you still have the bonnet open? If so, i have a feeling you won't get anywhere with EKA. Try closing everything doors/tailgate/bonnet (-properly slam the bonnet - some bonnets still read open, unless shut hard); lock the drivers door with the key; run through EKA procedure. Once you're inside the car after EKA, what happens when you try and start the engine with the key:
- does the red LED on the dash still flash (- I think, even if you have correctly entered EKA, it still remains slowly flashing, to remind you that the keyfob still has a problem)?
- do you have any 'message centre' messages?
- does it crank?
- does it start?

Where did you get your EKA code from? Have you ever verified it worked correctly previously? Where abouts is the car (- i.e. type of location - garage/carpark/mechanic, not where is it actually located)?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,820 Posts
paul.adshead said:
rrtoadhall said:
I don't remember, but don't the keys have to be synched in order to do the EKA?
Nope, the EKA is Emergency Key Access, i.e. the thing you use when your remote & becm have lost sync.
Thanks for the refresher Paul! :thumb: I've never had to do any of that bit so haven't had to retain the info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Hi Paul,
First of all thanks, I managed to get to the tailgate and opened it from the inside plus I changed the reciever back to the original one.
Next
you've mentioned several times about connecting/reconnecting the battery. To do this I'm guessing you had the bonnet open?
If I try to use the EKA with the bonnet open the display will inform me and for me not to open and close the bonnet every time I managed to locate the bonnet switch and jammed it with a small screw driver.

When I go through the EKA procedure which ends with a clockwise key turn to unlock, I open the door and the alarm sounds. LED on Dash still Flashing and regarding messages I have loads like, all windows not set, sunroof not set something about ABS but remember that BeCM was sent to the UK to be unlocked and couldn't get access it since thus couldn't reconfigure the old settings back.
Does not crank, does not start and a big ENGINE DISABLED on the message centre.

I purchased this car from the UK last April and the previous owner gave me the EKA code, when it didn't work I contacted the local Land Rover dealer and confirmed it is the correct one.
It has never worked for me yet but when my mechanic managed to access the BECM some time ago he was so kind to print out all the settings I have in the becm including the EKA.
The car is in my Garage which is far away from buildings and Mobile Antennas. :)

Thanks
Steve
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
865 Posts
For what its worth as I had the same issue when buying my P38 recently, battery had gone totally flat and stayed like this for over 6 months with a dead battery but disconnected... come day of trying to start up to take it home with recharged battery it was a no go even with a fault mate added it would not read much, so we disconnect battery for the night.

Next day I go and buy new batteries for key fobs, I enter the code sequence which I had never ever done before in my life and bang 1st time she fires up straight away, so even if the little LED light on fob is shinning I would try some fresh new batteries, you never know but do change them quickly, what I did was enter code, inserted key into ignition switch and turn ignition switch to 2nd position, within a few seconds ignition was active.

I would try the following, disconnect battery in car for roughly 12 hours (over night as I did) get new fob batteries and try again in the morn, oh and bonnet must be securely closed, push on each corner to make sure it is so

Best of luck
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top