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99 HSE 150K with off and on death wobbles. Yes, we all know it is a comb. of many things + a GOOD steering damper, but one thing not mentioned in most threads is DEAD STRAIGHT FRONT END ALIGNMENT/ NO TOE IN or OUT & proper tire pressure. Not what the specs recommend but seems that any toe in or out sets the stage for wobbles. I did ALL recommended things but this, and bingo! Nothing like hitting a bridge expansion joint going 70MPH with grace now!!! I did this at 110K and perfect since.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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There is mention of this before.

Only problem is that there is no room for error when the steering parts start to loosen up again.
 

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I think an over looked issue is tire feathering, when I flipped the rears and put them in front my truck only got smoother as the tires de-feathered.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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230 Posts
Turpin,

There's part of your problem!
The factory spec's for tyre pressures are there to give you a good ride, full stop.
They are not optimal for handling or for tyre wear.

Speak to a tyre expert, and you will be surprised at what the recommended pressures will be, and when you try them out, just how much better the truck will handle.
 

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True maybe, but another issue raised in this forum relates to the supposed need for a preload on the transfer case, which is supplied by the ever-so-slight circumfrence differences between the F and R tyre sets due to different (F/R) inflation pressures... :think: (" just reading the weather report here folks!") :?:
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sorting out wheel alignment and a new intermediate steering column shaft cured the 'wobbles' for me but front tyre pressures had to be adjusted to provide the final 'piece of the jigsaw'. Running Pirelli Scorpions at 28psi on the front showed all the classic symptoms of being underpressure i.e. tread at the edges wearing more than at the centre. Rears at 38psi are fine but I now run the fronts at 32psi and find tyre wear completely even and steering much improved. However, I still suffer from judder into the cabin when traversing 'ruts' at speed - steering is fine but the suspension just transmits those sharp edged ruts straight through to the cabin - are later generation suspension air bags and/or dampers much better in this respect?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I'm thinking along your lines Garvin. I have a leaking front airspring which I think is causing problems with the front end handling. My front near side feels really heavy and just doesn't feel at all right. I've got to find time this week to look at it but I'm too busy.

Also check your panard rod bushes if you get that side-to-side movement.
 

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Rich998a said:
I'm thinking along your lines Garvin. I have a leaking front airspring which I think is causing problems with the front end handling. My front near side feels really heavy and just doesn't feel at all right. I've got to find time this week to look at it but I'm too busy.

Also check your panard rod bushes if you get that side-to-side movement.
And you took me to the pub in a dangerous car ! :lol: Glad you are busy,its all go here too with Cobra bits and pieces.AND sorting out jobs to a decent standard that I've farmed out..... (And paid top dollar for. :evil: )
 

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I decided to inflate my tires a bit more in the front. I inflated them to 35psi 8) . I noticed it rides and steers smoother right off the bat :D
 

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However, I still suffer from judder into the cabin when traversing 'ruts' at speed - steering is fine but the suspension just transmits those sharp edged ruts straight through to the cabin - are later generation suspension air bags and/or dampers much better in this respect?
Me toooo! :think: I did notice some improvement in this regard when I replaced the rubber shock absorber bushes which had hardened. Over the past 2 yrs i've repalced the airbags and shocks... kept it all standard.

I have a hunch however that the major culprits are probably the bushes in the radius arms plus the rubber mounts between the body and the chassis. I have recently experienced a "before" and "after" ride in a 10 yr old Toyota Prado (450,000km mainly on dirt roads..) where bushes etc were renewed. The improvement in transmitted NVH is amazing... drives like "new" . ...
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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allyv8 said:
Rich998a said:
I'm thinking along your lines Garvin. I have a leaking front airspring which I think is causing problems with the front end handling. My front near side feels really heavy and just doesn't feel at all right. I've got to find time this week to look at it but I'm too busy.

Also check your panard rod bushes if you get that side-to-side movement.
And you took me to the pub in a dangerous car ! :lol: Glad you are busy,its all go here too with Cobra bits and pieces.AND sorting out jobs to a decent standard that I've farmed out..... (And paid top dollar for. :evil: )
Any chance the Cobra's new 8ltr V8 could be wedged into the front of a p38. Or, even better, our project SeriesIII? :lol:
 

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I dont think so,that big block ford is very heavy - need extra arsprings to keep it off the deck ! It left me as a 7.2ltr - coming back as an 8.8ltr,with alloy heads,lumpy cam etc.(5/600 bhp ? ) Should do the trick...... Just need to find an excuse to fabricate some posh alloy or stainless bits with my new Tig set coming next week. :wink:
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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:lol:

All that talk about Tig welders has got Dick very excited - so much so his Mig isn't working very well this morning welding a new cross member on the back of a 110 :roll: Still, I've just spend 2 months tool/plant allowance on heating equipment for the unit for the winter. Maybe I should knock a big hole in the back of the unit and have a log burner like yours, Jon. I'm sure the landlord wouldn't mind. :think:
 
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