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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen,

my 2010 RRS is running like a top at 67k miles and i'd like to do my best to keep it that way. Based on my readings here, i have decided to do the front and rear diff, transfer case, and engine oil change very soon in spite of the Rover advised intervals. the local dealer has quoted me $450 to do those services.

Do you think it is a fair price?


p.s. the engine oil change was last done at 60k miles... is it needless to do every 7k miles?


thanks,
Greg
 

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Dear Greg,

Let's break this down and you can decide.

Engine oil change:
$50 synthetic oil
$15 oil filter
1/2 hr labor

Rear differential (non-locking)
$34 2 Qt of oil
1/2 hr labor

Front differential:
$34 2 Qt oil
1/2 hr labor

Transfer case:
$40 2 Qts oil
1/2 hr labor

Miscellaneous shop supplies- $7.50
Disposal fee -$5

Total parts = $185.50
Total labor = ?

*Note: in most cases you may use 3 Qts total in the differentials, but buy 4 Qts just in case you spill some.

Regards,
gooseyloosey
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks goosey,

I was under the impression the 2010 didn't have a engine oil drain plug. I'm ok paying a few hours of labor. I do enough work on my classic Landcruiser to keep me busy. I am curious if that price is in line with what others are seeing.

What I thought was interesting was that the service rep said it was $300 for the engine oil change and $150 for the differential and t-case service. Seems it would be the other way around IMO.
 

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There is a drain plug (although it's far easier and quicker to vacuum the motor oil from the top of the engine, if you have a pump.) The synthetic oil Land Rover uses - Castrol EDGE Professional OE 5W-20 - actually costs anywhere between $12/15 per quart at the dealer, and the car needs 8 quarts and change - dealer will bill you for 9, guaranteed. The OEM oil filter cartridge for a 2010+ is more like $30. Still, $300 for an oil change is a lot of dough as it does take 1/2 hour tops to do it from above, maybe 45 minutes if you need to crawl under the car and undo the skid plates there to reach the plug. Never done diffs and t-case myself, but goosey's estimate sounds about right.
 

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Thanks Umberto.. My bad, I keep forgetting the '10 has the cartridge filter and not a spin on. And I use 8 Qts of M1 that I buy at Wally World for $36/5Qts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys,

I'll see if I can find a reputable Indie shop near here to compare. I just haven't gotten to the point where I want to work on it myself yet.

-Greg
 

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That's not bad, probably about $100 more then what you'd pay at a dealer, and some of that will be the price difference between the LR branded Castrol gear oil, and the Castrol branded gear oil for the differentials. Along with changing out the front diff fluids, I strongly suggest to check the breather for it, there is an updated style cap that keeps the unit from over-pressurizing. Pop the hood, and look at the drivers side of the radiator, there is a small black tube clipped on in that area, see the attachment for reference, but if it looks like the first image, get a new one, it's cheap easy insurance.

With the carbon build up issues these engines have at higher mileages, I would suggest having an induction service preformed as well, if you haven't had one, you will notice a difference in the way the engine runs. Finally, in my opinion, yes, stick to the early oil changes, the cleaner you keep the oil(even if it has life left in it) the less issues you will have in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's not bad, probably about $100 more then what you'd pay at a dealer, and some of that will be the price difference between the LR branded Castrol gear oil, and the Castrol branded gear oil for the differentials. Along with changing out the front diff fluids, I strongly suggest to check the breather for it, there is an updated style cap that keeps the unit from over-pressurizing. Pop the hood, and look at the drivers side of the radiator, there is a small black tube clipped on in that area, see the attachment for reference, but if it looks like the first image, get a new one, it's cheap easy insurance.

With the carbon build up issues these engines have at higher mileages, I would suggest having an induction service preformed as well, if you haven't had one, you will notice a difference in the way the engine runs. Finally, in my opinion, yes, stick to the early oil changes, the cleaner you keep the oil(even if it has life left in it) the less issues you will have in the long run.

Thanks Dave, I had the service rep add the check for the updated breather.

Also, I thought the carbon build up was an issue on the 4.4 motors. Is it an issue on the 5.0 motors also?

Thanks
-Greg
 

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That's not bad, probably about $100 more then what you'd pay at a dealer, and some of that will be the price difference between the LR branded Castrol gear oil, and the Castrol branded gear oil for the differentials. Along with changing out the front diff fluids, I strongly suggest to check the breather for it, there is an updated style cap that keeps the unit from over-pressurizing. Pop the hood, and look at the drivers side of the radiator, there is a small black tube clipped on in that area, see the attachment for reference, but if it looks like the first image, get a new one, it's cheap easy insurance.

With the carbon build up issues these engines have at higher mileages, I would suggest having an induction service preformed as well, if you haven't had one, you will notice a difference in the way the engine runs. Finally, in my opinion, yes, stick to the early oil changes, the cleaner you keep the oil(even if it has life left in it) the less issues you will have in the long run.
Would using Mobil 1 extended performance be better than the castrol edge? Any customers that have used it this way?


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Thanks Dave, I had the service rep add the check for the updated breather.

Also, I thought the carbon build up was an issue on the 4.4 motors. Is it an issue on the 5.0 motors also?

Thanks
-Greg
Backwards. The 5.0 is relatively worse than the 4.4

Either way keep the oil clean and change the PCV when its time.
 
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