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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello. Driving our 1990 classic home, she died and won't start-up.
In hope to rectify, the following items have been installed:
1. New fuel pump
2. New fuel filter
3. New coil
4. New ignition amp
5. New rotor, cap. wires, & plugs.

Still no start. Appreciate all responses. Thanks.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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84 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your question. No spark. Tested #1 plug wire lead on alternator metal hanger and found no spark.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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222 Posts
Thanks for your question. No spark. Tested #1 plug wire lead on alternator metal hanger and found no spark.
OK, so chances are good you have power to the ignition issues.
Check for voltage before the amplifier and at the coil + with the key ON.
 

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First thing I would do is spray starter fluid into the intake and see if it would fire
If no fire
I would try adjusting the distributor eather by myself in small turns or have someone turn over the motor while I turn the distributor to try and get it to hit.
It could have jumped timing
 

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If you have power to the coil remove the coil wire from the cap then remove the cap and push out of the way. Hold the coil wire with insulated pliers near the center of the rotor and crank the motor over. If you see spark then you have a bad rotor and your spark is grounding through the distributor. Replace with a bonded type rotor, not the riveted version.

I chased down an intermittent stall issue and found it to be faulty rotor. Went through several rotors before finally getting a good one.

If you're not getting spark out of the coil, start looking at ignition amplifier, distributor pick up, and grounds. Details for testing these can be found by searching this forum.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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pull your coil wire from the cap, get it about 1/2" away from ground, and have someone try starting the engine. You should have a VERY strong spark that will make an audible "snap". If you have a weak spark, or no spark at all there, it's the ignition amp. They are very prone to failure, and a less than desirable design. If you have good spark off the coil, then you need to look at your cap and rotor.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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143 Posts
If she died without a splutter - just cut out and no engine at and all coast to a stop I doubt its full related. - I would check the amp first. They over heat. If a new amp cures the issue consider a relocation kit which places the amp over on the inner wing which is cooler. Solved all my issues.

Good luck
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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84 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Would have never suspected my new Lucas cap & rotor to be the issue, but it was! Tested coil lead & it had spark which meant spark wasn't leaving cap (testing lead #1 showed no spark.) Thanks for the input! Best.
 

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Just sayin
I believe if your if timing is off
Your not going to have spark at your plug wire
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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222 Posts
Just sayin
I believe if your if timing is off
Your not going to have spark at your plug wire
If he cranks the engine with a plug lead off, he WILL get spark at some point, even if his timing is 180 out.
 

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Would have never suspected my new Lucas cap & rotor to be the issue, but it was! Tested coil lead & it had spark which meant spark wasn't leaving cap (testing lead #1 showed no spark.) Thanks for the input! Best.
Absolutely believe it! I went through a few "genuine" rotors that all failed before finding a good one. I always carry a spare bonded type rotor in the glove box for good measure.
 
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