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Discussion Starter #1
Just picked up a 06 RRS SC and I think I may have screwed the pooch on this one. Needless to say the previous owner was a pig and the truck was in desperate need of a detail so I got it home and went to work on it, I've pressure washed many of the engine bays on plenty of my other rovers and know to avoid the ECU and TCM areas. I washed the engine bay lightly but went to town cleaning the fender wells, brakes and the outside as well as and vacuuming the inside and removing the filth. In the process of cleaning all day the dome lights killed the battery so I tossed it on the charger and let it sit. Later that evening I started the truck up and the dash lit up like christmas.

Green Low range flashing on the dash, suspension locked out from any adjustment, Terrain response locked out, DSC light on and a transmission fault warning. Initially I thought it might just be low voltage on a poor battery so I didn't even worry about pulling codes at this point I just rolled up the windows and called it a day.

Today I went and picked up a new battery, did a hard reset and started the truck back up to find the same thing. I have the 4Dcan software and started checking codes. What I got was Gearshift position - circuit range performance from the TCM, Invalid data received from the ABS module. The dash displayed a transmission fault although no codes were logged in the transition module, only the TCM.

One really strange thing is that it activated the parking brake and when disengaged it starts to chime and says to engage the parking brake. (parking brake is functional and does release)

I decided to move the truck in the driveway, sure enough the truck is stuck in low range. I had set the suspension set to it highest height to clean the wheel wells and once I started to move the truck it set itself to normal height then quickly dropped itself down to access height and throws a suspension fault (exhaust valve when checking the module) Although clearing the fault makes the compressor come on and the suspension goes back to normal height I don't have any control via the button on the console. Tried to move the truck a second time and had the same result.

I decided to pull the battery and remove the TCM to see if there was water in it, I didn't see any water inside the box and opened the TCM to look inside, no water or moisture residue and nothing on the board looked out of the ordinary. I re-installed it, performed another hard reset and started the truck back up with the same issues listed above. Same fault codes on the same modules. I also used the 4dcan software to clear the codes before I removed the battery to check the TCM.

So... At this point I'm at a loss and hoping for some ideas on what other things I should be looking at or for. My first thought would be to replace the TCM but I don't want to start blindly throwing parts at it.
 

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I too pressure wash engines but I never spray directly at any electrical connections. Just let the old girl dry out and she will most likely return to normal.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Ditto - in my early days I also spray washed the engine bay - all up it took a week before the fun and games stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had that thought as well, just hoping I didn't nuke something in the process, I've always known the risk was out there but I guess I wasn't careful enough.

Any other places or plugs I should check?

The fact that the truck will just bury itself on to the bump stops when you try and move it is definitely sketchy!

What module is under the passenger seat? It looks like the wires have been tugged on from the seat moving.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Under the passenger seat is the amplifier...part of the MOST ring connecting the front radio, navigation unit under the driver's seat and the bluetooth module in the back compartment, all part of the circuit. On the passenger side wiring loom is where you'll find usually the corroded wire connections when eventually your front windows won't go down due to rain water not exiting properly thru the sunroof drain tubes...at that point, you'll have to patch the wires on the passenger wiring loom...hopefully that's not one of your current issues!

If you can get a GAP IID tool, you can reset all parameters on all ECU's...that would be a good thing to start with as well...

If it's automatically dropping to the bump stops and won't raise, I'd check to see if the new battery is even good.
 

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Under the passenger seat is the amplifier...part of the MOST ring connecting the front radio, navigation unit under the driver's seat and the bluetooth module in the back compartment, all part of the circuit. On the passenger side wiring loom is where you'll find usually the corroded wire connections when eventually your front windows won't go down due to rain water not exiting properly thru the sunroof drain tubes...at that point, you'll have to patch the wires on the passenger wiring loom...hopefully that's not one of your current issues!

If you can get a GAP IID tool, you can reset all parameters on all ECU's...that would be a good thing to start with as well...

If it's automatically dropping to the bump stops and won't raise, I'd check to see if the new battery is even good.
Ok I thought that was just the amplifier, in my old l322 I remember I had to replace the BCM at one point that was located under there.

I tried another hard reset tonight but nothing has changed, I also pulled the door sill and kick panel to look for any moisture and didn't find anything suspicious to make me believe it got wet or has been in the past. No issues with the windows (yet) lol.

The lowering to bump stops when you try to move the car is a weird one for sure, odd thing is I can clear the air suspension fault and the compressor kicks on and raises the truck back to normal height! Only to do the same thing again when you try to move it.

Local indy shop quoted me $250 to give it a look and try to diagnose the issue but god only knows where that could lead!

I've thought about the GAP tool or the Nanocom, not sure which one is better. 4dcan has always done the basic things I've needed it to do like adjust suspension, interrupt and clear fault codes but it sounds like it's something I might be needing in the future.

I've thought about just trying to replace the TCM since a used one can be had for fairly cheap but I've also read conflicting statements, some say it can be swapped out without re-programming and some say it must be reprogrammed. So I could be needing the GAP tool either way...

I knew when I bought the truck it had a slight coolant leak (worn hose) and a bad coolant reservoir sensor. Other than those two things those were the only issues and cheap/easy to resolve.

30 years of working on cars and this thing is going to be the end of me I'm afraid.
 

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Another idea occurred to me. It’s possible that in the process of washing the wheel wells you got water into the connectors of the ride height sensors. I’d disconnect all 4 and let them dry out. Just FYI, they are not swappable as they are position specific. Let us know if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Another idea occurred to me. It’s possible that in the process of washing the wheel wells you got water into the connectors of the ride height sensors. I’d disconnect all 4 and let them dry out. Just FYI, they are not swappable as they are position specific. Let us know if that helps.
Good thinking! I'll get after those in the morning!
 

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Well... Looks like it did in fact just need to dry out!

I went through and checked all the height sensors and other plugs in the wheel wells and everything looked good. I decided to pull the battery and put a big fan on the blowing on the TCM and the ECU area all day, got home and it threw the same codes. Tossed the truck in neutral and and selected high range and it kicked into high range, cycled the key and everything was back to normal!

I'm just happy it's back to normal!
 

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Don't crow too soon - I would expect an further or issue or two but a switch off and back on or maybe a hard reset will fix. But you are on the downhill run.

Simply the TCM is shielded from water coming up from below so it is rare for an issue from say fording a creek, but there is little protection form above as in driving scenarios it is unlikely that water will come that way - unless swamped of course - or hosing the top of the engine.

You do learn these things quickly though.

Garry
 

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It's a Rover, there will always be an issue of some sort, I learned that a long time ago lol.

I'll take this as a win either way, at least the truck is functional again!

I have friends who always ask if we like our Rovers and I have to explain that when they work properly they're fantastic but when there's an issue it's usually some sort of a giant headache. You kind of have to be a glutton for punishment I think.
 
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