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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
I know that this has been covered 20 thousand times already.. but my amp has now officially died. All the threads that I have searched through over the past week (and there are loads) talk about "crossovers/ bypasses/ ohms/ attenuators...aaagh!!".????
Has any one got a simple answer that someone with a spanner head like myself, can understand.? Is it the end of my music world or:
A) can I just wire past the **** thing?
B) Do I have to rip it all out and start again?
C) any other.

Cheers
 

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A) Yes if you are using an aftermarket head unit you can link the feeds from the head unit (you'll have to run in an extra couple of feeds for the rear channels) to the wiring to the speakers in the rear where the amp did live. See Marty's thread here **INFO** P38 Alpine/DSP Amp Connections and wiring
B) No, most of the wiring you need is already there, you just need to link the wires.
C) Rip all the wiring out and run new wires in......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A) Yes if you are using an aftermarket head unit you can link the feeds from the head unit (you'll have to run in an extra couple of feeds for the rear channels) to the wiring to the speakers in the rear where the amp did live. See Marty's thread here INFO P38 Alpine/DSP Amp Connections and wiring
B) No, most of the wiring you need is already there, you just need to link the wires.
C) Rip all the wiring out and run new wires in......
Hi, thanks for coming back here, I really appreciate it. I have looked through this one before, I would like to keep the original head unit, but is it depending on the rear amp for its "sound".? (You can see I am struggling to get my head around this.) Why cant I just connect the, eg R/H/F out put from the head, to the R/H/F speaker..?
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover P38A
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I have found replacement components for my system by just putting a saved search into ebay. Maybe there's one on there now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have found replacement components for my system by just putting a saved search into ebay. Maybe there's one on there now.
Thanks Wicksw, I have looked at a replacement Amp, but to get one of the correct number and in some kind of useful state is upwards of £300-£400. Then fingers crossed it holds up. Seems that these items have a "life" and love to just give at a moment's notice ?
 

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I would like to keep the original head unit, but is it depending on the rear amp for its "sound".? (You can see I am struggling to get my head around this.) Why cant I just connect the, eg R/H/F out put from the head, to the R/H/F speaker..?
In theory you could but in practice you wouldn't hear a lot as the head unit is designed to output low level signals to feed external amps, either the individual amps in each door on the earlier high line system or the DSP amp on the later system. So you would still need an amp. Marty has done a DSP amp replacement that uses 4 of the door amps used in the earlier system mounted on a board but it still requires some soldering and you will need to run in some extra wires from the head unit to the amp board for the rear outputs (as stereo is just left and right channels the head unit only sends left and right to the DSP amp, it is split between front and rear in the amp). More details at DSP Conversion Complete. If nothing else the current lockdown means Marty is at home so you may as well give him something to do.
 
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