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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Working on R&R'ing a leaking heater core on the '02 RR that my friend bought from me and I'm following the instructions on the Repair Operations page here that detail the cutting of the passenger's side dash support and bending the dash out to squeak the heater core past and I'm at the stage where I am trying to physically bend the dash back and, well, it's harder than hell! Is there some trick that anyone here has used to attack this?

One thing of mention is that in the photo which shows the three bolts which hold the bottom of the dash in place, on this truck, the "bolt" on the farthest outboard edge near the emergency fuel release is a threaded stud and I think it might be what's preventing me from being able to lever the dash out far enough. Anyone else have this or run into this?

Last but not least, the new heater core is manufactured by Eurospare UK and upon inspection, there isn't a hole for the screw that secures the water pipes into the core to pass through. I guess we just need to drill it open, but I found it odd that it was manufactured this way knowing that a screw will need to pass through it when the pipes are installed! Again, anyone else seen this?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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:shock: WOW, u r a braver man than I. All of the posts here that I have read r about O rings, not about the heater core. When it comes down to the actual heater core I have been lead to believe that you pull everything out so that you can clean it up while you are changing out the heater core. Naturally cleaning is secondary to replacing the actual heater core. :D
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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803 Posts
I am half way through a second heater core change in as many weeks - right hand drive car. Maybe I misunderstand you but I dont pull the dash at all where you are mentioning. The right of the dash in the photo does not need to be bent back - only the left. Are you sure you removed the small bolt which is circled together with the nut on the left. The dash needs a little persuasion to get it off the stud - a large screw driver or pry bar is needed to get it to move sufficiently.

I got my core out in 2 hours yesterday which includes steering column removal. It is definately much easier second time round.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I did remove both the nut and the small bolt in the left corner. On the right is the stud and it seemed to me that maybe the stud was preventing the dash from being able to be manipulated over on the left side. There wasn't a stud on the left, only a large bolt and the smaller bolt. I just can't for the life of me bend the dash back enough to get the core out. All of the plastic in the center console starts creaking if I try to "persuade" the dash to move too much and I don't want to damage anything by too much pressure, such as cracking the nav screen or something like that...

I assume your rig had a stud over on the left side as well as the right side?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Mine are both studs. I notice the plastic you mention is different on the left hand drive model judging by the photos on the main site. It appears to be in one continuous piece surrounding the glove box aperture whereas on RHD models there is no plasic along the bottom piece. I removed the screws securing the plastic to the metal frame wherever I saw them. Perhaps this helped ease the rigidity of the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, so a friend helped muscle the dash down and we got the core swapped. One thing though on the new one is that it seems to protrude about 10mm from the side of the heater case and it seems as though it should be sitting flush in there. This suspicion was confirmed when I tried to reattach the servo motor right above the matrix and it wouldn't mate up because of the edge of the core being in the way. Is there some sort of trick to "shoving" it back in there all the way? I tried with some vigor but didn't want to damage the new core. I'm wondering if the little tubes at the other end have to fit into slots in the heater case and they're not lining up??

I tell you, between that and having to drill out the hole for the pipe clamp screw to pass through, I'm not so keen on using parts from Eurospare again.... :naughty:
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Have you compared the old and the new side by side. Perhaps there is a difference. On both of my jobs the matrix simply slotted in all the way with no shoving required.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I didn't compare them side by side, and of course in hindsight, I should have, but I assumed the dimensions would be the same. Oh well, I guess it's back out with the core today to do a comparison and see if something inside the heater box is preventing the new core from seating.... :?
 
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