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Discussion Starter #1
So it looks as if its time to replace the right cv boot as theres a large mess of grease coming out of it. Ive checked RAVE and cant seem to find this procedure listed. Can anyone give me some tips on how to go about this, if any special tools are needed, and any potential snags that may arise? Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. From what it looks like this isnt going to be fun, besides the new boot and grease any job specific tools i should get? Should I also get the axle oil seal or is it not necessary?
 

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The front axle seal is a little more involved/delicate than the rear axle seal and costs a bit more. If its not leaking, don't replace it (if you ask me). To do your CV boot, you'll need a CV clamp wrench.
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Will I need to remove the hub nut to replace the boot or can I just pull the entire hub/axle assembly and replace it that way? IF I have to remove the hub nut I want to make sure and order an extra one just in case.
 

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Max. A possible option might be to fit a 2 part boot. I bought one for our trooper but actually sold her before installing it. There is a solvent glue that bonds the 2 halves together so it should become water tight. Perhaps someone has tried one and will report in. Just a non-purist thought. :oops:
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I did a bit of research on the 2 part boots, and seems getting them to seal properly is difficult to near impossible. That and I couldnt find one that would work, not that i figured there would be one as that would have been too easy. Im hoping Ill be able to slide the new boot over the lip on the axle shaft, which should negate having to mess with the hub nut.
 

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That tool should work. I did mine recently and bought the boot from british pacific. The clamp was crappy and I couldn't get a super tight seal and it ended up leaking shortly thereafter. Got the one from the auto parts store locally, and it came with a better clamp and worked great.

I've reused my axle bolt about 5 take-offs so far.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Jsmooth,

Did you remove the hub/axle as an entire assembly? Looking at this picture makes me think its not even necessary to mess with the hub nut. I could be wrong though, im not sure why but the more i think about fixing this, the more nervous im getting.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/TDB104080.cfm *edit forgot pic
 

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The hub bearing/housing comes off with a set of bolts. If you leave the axle nut on, you'll have to work with the hub bearing/housing and the cv attached to each other, which would probably be a pain in the ass. If you remove the nut, the hub bearing/housing slides off the cv/axle assembly and you're left with whats in that picture. Taking off and installing that nut is not a difficult task.
 

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Make sure you have some ear protection for when you are banging on the hub. It is a metal to metal seat and it gets tight over time.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the heads up. I got the caliper and rotor off today, now I need to buy a socket for the hub nut. Search came up with it being 1 1/4, is that right or is it metric?
 

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You should have slackened/removed the nut before removing the wheel. The diff is open and will spin the axle as you try to remove the nut.

i think its 32mm? thats the socket i use anyway
 
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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, I put the wheel back on. I had to take it off to remove the center cap as I glued them on awhile ago. I just wanted to get a head start and get the easy stuff out of the way.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Anyone know the size of the hub nut, I was gonna go get a socket for it later today?
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Alright, so this project has turned into a nightmare. Everything went smoothly until I tried to get the large clamp around the cv boot on. I broke a couple of the banjo style clamps, ended up trying a large hose clamp and this is what it did to the boot. I'm over working on it, Im going to take it to a local shop and have them put the clamp on. My question is, is this boot still usable or did I just waste $70? Thanks.
 

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You just wasted 70.00 bucks sorry :( :(

Scotty
 
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Discussion Starter #20
I ordered the boot kit from AB, which was $50 plus another $15 for genuine grease. I found one toady at NAPA for $17. Guess I should have looked there first. I think one of my problems is that I packed way to much grease in the boot, as it was nearly full, so when the wheel was turned the boot couldnt flex, so it popped the large clamp off and oozed out grease. Oh well, at least I learned something.
 
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