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Discussion Starter #1
Just got the 2014 rrs sc... And your all right. Basic sound system sucks... So after some research read some peoples upgrading options. I like the 10inch sub in the rear side panel. Does anyone know what the dimensions are in there, or the dimensions of a sub box that fits in there? Any help will help. Thanks and first Time poster. This forum has helped tons.
 

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When complete...please post details. Can't believe how weak the bass is on the base system. Ready to upgrade after only 2 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Trust me i was ready for an upgrade after 2 days. Will be done tomorrow i will get a picture up of the sub installed.
 

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So how much was sub upgrade? And would you recommend us just getting the 825 W from the get go? I'm still not sure if I want to drop $1850 on a system that I thought was just ok. I don't need an amazing system but I do want it to be at least comparable to my x5's base system.
 

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I think it sound a lot better. I have not really listened to the stock upgraded meridian system enough to judge or compare... But compared to the base system when the bass is non existent, it's a huge upgrade. I paid 1650 installed. It's not much considering if I wanted to sell and find a new rrs with the upgraded sound system, it might take a while and lose more money then 1650. Overall I am satisfied.
 

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I think the Meridian Premium is worth the $1800 if you're wanting to upgrade overall watage and bass. I had an aftermarket system in my LR4 with good high-end components and think the Meridian is pretty good for an OEM system.

I think the real question is whether one would upgrade to the signature line at $5600 vs high-end aftermarket. I didn't get a choice of getting the Signature line because I bought an RRS SC off the lot but would have considered it if I was building to potentially save space in the rear. I listened to it in a full-size RR ATB and it sounded pretty good but I could still tell the clarity and mid-bass/bass would be better with a high-end aftermarket.

I'm planning on putting an aftermarket system into my RRS and waiting on my local installer to get the new Hertz Mille Legend 3-ways in and listen to them first. I've already got a 5channel amp from Audison and an JL 10"W3 that I plan on reusing. If anyone is interested in doing an aftermarket system, one thing to note is you will need to buy a sound processor(I use Audison bit 10D) and connect after the factory amp because LRs go digital/fiber from the head unit to the amp.

...I digress. The OP has got me more excited about putting in an aftermarket system again.
 

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It will flatten your signal out so you can tweak the EQ to your preference. The factory amp has EQ'ing that reduces certain frequencies when you you turn the volume up. I would say that if you consider the processor, it's really only beneficial if you do the full upgrade(amp, speakers).

I just got my equipment installed by a local dealer today. I'll take some pics of the install post later just in case others are interested.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It will flatten your signal out so you can tweak the EQ to your preference. The factory amp has EQ'ing that reduces certain frequencies when you you turn the volume up. I would say that if you consider the processor, it's really only beneficial if you do the full upgrade(amp, speakers).

I just got my equipment installed by a local dealer today. I'll take some pics of the install post later just in case others are interested.
Yeah please do. Almost be interested what all did you get in your upgrade. As i just added a sub to my stock base model system. As the stock system has good vocals already just no bass. But i notice when i do turn the volume up louder the stock speakers try to oush bass out and it created a weird cheap bass sound. So maybe that processor would benefit my system.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I was looking into the audison processor. Dont you need to hook up an amp to the processor? Does it need its own amp or can be with an amp already used in the vehicle fir my sub? Sorry if question sounds dumb, i really am a noob. Lol
 

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Here is a pic of my install below. Updates included:

- Replaced 3-way factory front door speakers with Hertz Mille speakers
- Audison Bit 1 sound processor to sum 8 or 10 channels(can't remember how many my installer grabbed) after the OEM factory amp since you can't access the signal from the LR nav/head unit due to the output uses fiber optics
- Audison LRX 5.1 5 channel amp(old amp from my last LR), 150w x 75w x 700w driving hybrid active front milles and my sub
- JL Audio 10w3 power wedge sub(old sub from my last LR)
- kept the rear speakers connected for rear fill and adjusted the gains on the amp to make sure the rear sound didn't take away from the front staging

Overall, the sound is fantastic with the new Hertz 3-way fronts. So much more midbass and the vocals are pulled forward and not "hidden" when I turn up the volume. I liked my Meridian upgraded stereo for an OEM system but my aftermarket stereo reminded me of how much I missed the additional wattage and smoother SQ. Side note, I did have a fan put in just in case that space didn't ventilate well for the amp. So far with our Texas heat, it's been good without turning the fan on(I had an on/off switch installed for the fan too:)).

Sofresh, you will need an amp after the audison processor like I mentioned above if you use a bit 1 or bit 10. That said, Audision has a new component(can't remember the product name) that includes the processor and a "mini amp" built in with lower wattage for speakers but I don't know the full details. I just saw it while I was at my installer's store. You may still need another amp for sub if you use the new component.
image.jpg
 

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Another pic of the rear hatch and my external sub. Also, the left panel pops back on with no issues and looks completely factory.

Since I used the left hatch pannel for amps, crossovers...etc and the right hatch panel covers some fuses and auxilery battery for the start/stop system, I really didn't have a good place to fabricate a sub enclosure. The wedge box is sleak and doesn't take up much room so I was good with just going with an exposed box. I also had a wiring connector port installed on the right hatch panel so I could easily disconnect the sub if I needed the full load space and not have sub wires exposed that could accidently touch and risk blowing a fuse.

image.jpg r
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank your very helpful. And looks amazing by the way. I might change mine around. Take the sub out and out the amps in the left side wall
 
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