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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys - I've looked everywhere for anyone who supplies some nice wheel arch extensions. Can't find anything short of importing from the UK, so I'm looking into getting my local rubber extrusion company to have a custom shaped strip made, and of course with things like this, the more you buy the cheaper it is.

So here's what I'm going to design: a factory-looking, 2-3" wide rubber extrusion strip which requires no body cutting to fit. It will sit on the side of the existing fenders, not beneath them. There will be a lip going under the fender lip for a clean and hidden attachment point. The outside profile will not have any screw holes, it will be smooth and solid. The top edge will taper to a point so that it sits flush and has a smooth transition into the body at the top where the extrusion ends. I plan to either screw or rivet the bottom inner lip to the fender lip and then use some sort of rubber adhesive for the top area if needed, but if I design it right, it should sit flush without anything else.

Obviously I'm looking for something that will stand the test of time and a little beating here and there, and can even be painted if necessary. A nice piece of rubber fits the bill in my book. If this is something you'd be interested in, please let me know roughly how much you'd be willing to pay. If the numbers pan out right then I will handle distribution after I pick it up (they're local), so you'll pay the cost of the strip, plus shipping, plus $10 or so to cover my time and packaging costs.

My research has shown that vehicle-specific wheel arch extensions cost anywhere between $200-500, and some of those are fiberglass which of course we don't want. So I'm thinking that if we can get the price down below $200/set then we're in business, but hopefully way cheaper.

Here's a rough sketch of the profile I'm after:
Text Line Sail Font Illustration
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I'll work on a more refined profile once I get a chance, but if anyone has any preferences please feel free to chime in. I've never done anything like this before, but I am a designer by day and have done a bit of product design so I'm fairly well equipped for the task.

Also note what width you would prefer.

Also note that, at risk of stating the obvious, unless we went for a solid extrusion, not hollow, that there will be holes in the ends of each strip. I haven't thought this through completely yet but I don't expect it to be a difficult task to overcome. It might even be the case that the exposed ends of the strip aren't visible after having been mounted. No idea. Will look into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've examined the fenders a bit more closely and it seems the best method of application is going to be VHB tape. If you have never used this before, you're in for a treat.

VHB stands for Very High Bond. It is a 3M product - a foam backed double sided tape. I used this for a trim application on my previous car, a 2004 Audi S4, around the entire lower perimeter of the car. Once, I hit a steep driveway and my trim broke, but the tape was still in place. It had been through dry heat and snow for months. Trips up to the mountains and back home to sunny Orange County.

The reason I think this is a better application than screw is for the following 2 reasons:

1) the inside lip of the fender, on my '95 LWB anyway, is not consistent. There are places where it's not there. See pics here of the front then rear fenders. Tire Automotive tire Wheel Fender Automotive wheel system
Tire Automotive tire Alloy wheel Wheel Rim

2) the profile of the body lends itself particularly well to an outside face mount. See the consistent deboss around the entire front then rear fenders in these pics Land vehicle Vehicle Alloy wheel Car Wheel
Land vehicle Vehicle Alloy wheel Car Wheel


I will be working on a new extrusion profile based on this information.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay got some more info. Spoke with 1 of 2 of my local rubber contacts. Minimum spend is $800, which means we need at least 4 in the group buy. The more the merrier!

Also, as mentioned in my previous post, I've done a modified profile sketch indicating shape and placement of tape
Text Font Line Design Diagram
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Would it be cheaper to modify a set from a Discovery Series 2
Or use filler like this one http://www.daurperformance.de/galerie/sally/
Yes it would. It seems there is some level of compatibility between the RRC and D1, never heard of any RRC / D2 compatibility. Usually it's an issue with the shape.

I'd be interested in learning how to use filler, but this doesn't seem like the appropriate guinea pig job for that.

Of course, 'cheaper' is relative with what I'm doing here. If there are enough buyers, the set I'm having made could cost $25 or something. I'll continue to look into it. But as far as my research has shown, there aren't any options for people who:

- want RRC fender flares
- that are durable
- that are in the US
- that don't require body cutting
- that don't look like arse
- that don't cost $400
 

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So far I don't see how having a lip on it and mounting to the rear doors is going to be compatible. Are you thinking that folks are going to want to trim the lip off for rear doors or is your company going to be doing that? Your drawings make these appear to be hollow which would be great for impact but would leave alot to be desired for finish at the ends and seam at the back doors. How about the ends? Are these going to be solid and tapered for a finished look? I know this is early in teh process but there are alot of open ended, no pun entended, questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So far I don't see how having a lip on it and mounting to the rear doors is going to be compatible. Are you thinking that folks are going to want to trim the lip off for rear doors or is your company going to be doing that? Your drawings make these appear to be hollow which would be great for impact but would leave alot to be desired for finish at the ends and seam at the back doors. How about the ends? Are these going to be solid and tapered for a finished look? I know this is early in teh process but there are alot of open ended, no pun entended, questions.
Great observations. I've been thinking about these things as well. The lip in my most recent image is too long. I think something like a 1" lip would fit fine on the rear doors. I was looking at it and taking those measurements last night. Since it appears that tape mounting is going to be the best solution for this application, the lip is purely cosmetic.

Regarding the ends, I think it's best to make them hollow so that they take the brunt of any impacts instead of transferring it to the body, but it obviously presents a cosmetic issue. While it wouldn't be difficult at all to cover the ends up with something, heck even taper them, I don't think it's worth making them solid. It will drive the cost of production up significantly, be too much added weight and increase the probability of body damage. That being said, if any trimming is necessary for the rear doors, that won't be a big deal since these will likely be rubber.
 
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