The only automatic car I've owned that didn't creep was a 1955 Jaguar Mk VII. It had a solenoid valve in the rear brake line that held the rear brakes on when stopped. As soon as one touched the accelerator, the solenoid valve released and one could move off. It was great on hills.
Creep
This is a bit of a troll post as I know nothing can be done. I HATE the creep in the transmission. Perhaps because I've never owned an automatic before, I know, I actually like driver's cars. Anyhow, the truck is always pulling. It requires excessive use of the brakes. At a stop. In reverse. All the time unless in so called "park". When slowing down the speed reduction is non linear, requiring unnecessary brake modulation to compensate for the creep and stop smoothly. Is there any practical way to eliminate it? I don't think anything is wrong with the truck, it was designed the way for some stupid reason I don't understand. I don't want the **** thing moving unless I press the go pedal.
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I must ask before I proceed… what are your engine RPM at idle?This is a bit of a troll post as I know nothing can be done. I HATE the creep in the transmission. Perhaps because I've never owned an automatic before, I know, I actually like driver's cars. Anyhow, the truck is always pulling. It requires excessive use of the brakes. At a stop. In reverse. All the time unless in so called "park". When slowing down the speed reduction is non linear, requiring unnecessary brake modulation to compensate for the creep and stop smoothly. Is there any practical way to eliminate it? I don't think anything is wrong with the truck, it was designed the way for some stupid reason I don't understand. I don't want the **** thing moving unless I press the go pedal.
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Mine is about 700 rpm warmed up.
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Ever try low range? I tried it for the first time to climb up 4 wheel ramps the other day....it was scary...would have easily launched right off the ramps had I not jammed the braked pedal with all my might....I put it in drive and it just took off!!
Very annoying honestly, I've never had a vehicle do that before and I've ONLY had automatics aside from my foxbody, even my Disco2 wasn't like that!
Very annoying honestly, I've never had a vehicle do that before and I've ONLY had automatics aside from my foxbody, even my Disco2 wasn't like that!
700-800I must ask before I proceed… what are your engine RPM at idle?
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Brake modulation isn’t that different from manual to automatic cars - I’ve driven one vehicle that was absolutely terrible though. 2020 Evoque. As it was slowing down it would begin to dig in once you slowed to 15-20 MPH and then you’d have to do all sorts of weird fluctuations in pressure to “make” it stop smoothly.
Felt like some REALLY poor transition between regenerative braking and friction braking.
My 2012 L322 brakes are a dream. They’ve got a cushy feel at the top, but can clamp down if you need it.
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Felt like some REALLY poor transition between regenerative braking and friction braking.
My 2012 L322 brakes are a dream. They’ve got a cushy feel at the top, but can clamp down if you need it.
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Somewhat related: does anybody have excessive brake/creep groan from the front just before coming to a full stop or when releasing the brakes? Brand new pads, rotors, caliper hardware, control arms, and I've still got that annoying noise.
Yup, all of the above, I have EBC rotors and Yellowstuff pads on mine and it still does it....excessively.
OK, at least I know its "normal". I read a post somewhere recently (can't find it now) which said that OEM LR pads won't cause those issues. I'm not sure I believe that though.Yup, all of the above, I have EBC rotors and Yellowstuff pads on mine and it still does it....excessively.
I changed from oem which were doing the same thing, albeit with WAY less brake dust and very slightly quieter. I've also heard people have the same issues with Brembo brand rotors and pads.....I work with a guy that has a 911 Turbo(992) that does the same thing. Maybe its the size of the rotors that make it do that?
I'm inclined to think that the rotors and calipers might be a little too small for such a big rig.
YES! On ceramics and semi metallics. It’s like it’s hitting the resonant frequency of the front axleSomewhat related: does anybody have excessive brake/creep groan from the front just before coming to a full stop or when releasing the brakes? Brand new pads, rotors, caliper hardware, control arms, and I've still got that annoying noise.
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Are you kidding? I've owned cars with smaller wheels than the rotor diameter of my RR, LOL.I'm inclined to think that the rotors and calipers might be a little too small for such a big rig.
Sounds like the caliper or pads are sticking. Often they are not greased correctly when the pads are replaced. There should be grease on all the spots where the pad's backing plate touches the caliper. It's pretty easy to pop out the pads and check. There's usually rust where there should be grease. Also the rear brakes have slide pins that also need grease. There is special caliper grease.
Another possibility is the pads are directional, and they are in backwards (or swapped L/R) The only time I had weird braking was this.
Warped rotors or a deep groove could also make inconsistent braking at low speeds. I change the rotors every other time I change the pads.
Contaminated brake fluid can make the ABS system act up. When is the last time the fluid was changed. It's actually an easy DIY job. You need a brake fluid catch can with a clear hose. Drain the brake fluid at the wheel closest to the master cylinder. Drain till there is about 1/4 left. Do NOT let it run dry. Fill the reservoir, and drain it down to 1/4 again. The color should change when fresh fluid gets to the wheel, hence the clear tube on catch can you attach to the bleed valve. Repeat a third time if it is really dirty. Then drain at each of the other 3 wheels, but only till the brake fluid color changes. It should take 20-30 minutes for each wheel.
Most importantly don't let the reservoir run dry. It is very difficult to bleed the ABS system.
Another possibility is the pads are directional, and they are in backwards (or swapped L/R) The only time I had weird braking was this.
Warped rotors or a deep groove could also make inconsistent braking at low speeds. I change the rotors every other time I change the pads.
Contaminated brake fluid can make the ABS system act up. When is the last time the fluid was changed. It's actually an easy DIY job. You need a brake fluid catch can with a clear hose. Drain the brake fluid at the wheel closest to the master cylinder. Drain till there is about 1/4 left. Do NOT let it run dry. Fill the reservoir, and drain it down to 1/4 again. The color should change when fresh fluid gets to the wheel, hence the clear tube on catch can you attach to the bleed valve. Repeat a third time if it is really dirty. Then drain at each of the other 3 wheels, but only till the brake fluid color changes. It should take 20-30 minutes for each wheel.
Most importantly don't let the reservoir run dry. It is very difficult to bleed the ABS system.
Somehow had a latent bubble appear in my ABS system, got brake fluid flushed at 150k and had a spongy brake pedal appear around 180k (still original master cylinder). Reservoir never went dry.Sounds like the caliper or pads are sticking. Often they are not greased correctly when the pads are replaced. There should be grease on all the spots where the pad's backing plate touches the caliper. It's pretty easy to pop out the pads and check. There's usually rust where there should be grease. Also the rear brakes have slide pins that also need grease. There is special caliper grease.
Another possibility is the pads are directional, and they are in backwards (or swapped L/R) The only time I had weird braking was this.
Warped rotors or a deep groove could also make inconsistent braking at low speeds. I change the rotors every other time I change the pads.
Contaminated brake fluid can make the ABS system act up. When is the last time the fluid was changed. It's actually an easy DIY job. You need a brake fluid catch can with a clear hose. Drain the brake fluid at the wheel closest to the master cylinder. Drain till there is about 1/4 left. Do NOT let it run dry. Fill the reservoir, and drain it down to 1/4 again. The color should change when fresh fluid gets to the wheel, hence the clear tube on catch can you attach to the bleed valve. Repeat a third time if it is really dirty. Then drain at each of the other 3 wheels, but only till the brake fluid color changes. It should take 20-30 minutes for each wheel.
Most importantly don't let the reservoir run dry. It is very difficult to bleed the ABS system.
Master cylinder replaced but took a good 3-4 days of driving almost an hour per day and multiple trips around the neighborhood with HDC enabled to finally get the firm pedal back.
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I installed brand new pads and rotors about 2 months ago (front and back), in hopes of getting rid of the noise. Very small improvement. Pads were greased and installed correctly. All new caliper pins and hardware. Caliper pistons seemed to be in fine shape.Sounds like the caliper or pads are sticking. Often they are not greased correctly when the pads are replaced. There should be grease on all the spots where the pad's backing plate touches the caliper. It's pretty easy to pop out the pads and check. There's usually rust where there should be grease. Also the rear brakes have slide pins that also need grease. There is special caliper grease.
Another possibility is the pads are directional, and they are in backwards (or swapped L/R) The only time I had weird braking was this.
Warped rotors or a deep groove could also make inconsistent braking at low speeds. I change the rotors every other time I change the pads.
Contaminated brake fluid can make the ABS system act up. When is the last time the fluid was changed. It's actually an easy DIY job. You need a brake fluid catch can with a clear hose. Drain the brake fluid at the wheel closest to the master cylinder. Drain till there is about 1/4 left. Do NOT let it run dry. Fill the reservoir, and drain it down to 1/4 again. The color should change when fresh fluid gets to the wheel, hence the clear tube on catch can you attach to the bleed valve. Repeat a third time if it is really dirty. Then drain at each of the other 3 wheels, but only till the brake fluid color changes. It should take 20-30 minutes for each wheel.
Most importantly don't let the reservoir run dry. It is very difficult to bleed the ABS system.
Brake fluid was changed by the prior owner almost 2 years ago and less than 10k miles. I suppose that might be the issue...my wife's G37 had a similar brake groan which went away 99% after a fluid change, but her fluid was very old and dark.
I had an old Jag Xj8L which had the same noise, and I could not get rid of it no matter what I did, UNTIL I upgraded the front brakes to the Brembo XJR calipers and upsized rotors. I always suspected the stock 340mm brakes were too small for a car that big since the groan went away with the bigger anchors (which incidentally are the same size as the Brembos on my RR...and the RR is much bigger and heavier than the old X350 Xj).
Never had any sort of brake groans or noises with my X351 XJ with the 380mm rotors.
Fronts on the Supercharged RR are already 380’s but Brembo makes a kit for 405mm ($$$$)I installed brand new pads and rotors about 2 months ago (front and back), in hopes of getting rid of the noise. Very small improvement. Pads were greased and installed correctly. All new caliper pins and hardware. Caliper pistons seemed to be in fine shape.
Brake fluid was changed by the prior owner almost 2 years ago and less than 10k miles. I suppose that might be the issue...my wife's G37 had a similar brake groan which went away 99% after a fluid change, but her fluid was very old and dark.
I had an old Jag Xj8L which had the same noise, and I could not get rid of it no matter what I did, UNTIL I upgraded the front brakes to the Brembo XJR calipers and upsized rotors. I always suspected the stock 340mm brakes were too small for a car that big since the groan went away with the bigger anchors (which incidentally are the same size as the Brembos on my RR...and the RR is much bigger and heavier than the old X350 Xj).
Never had any sort of brake groans or noises with my X351 XJ with the 380mm rotors.
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If you have noisy brakes, something is wrong. The earlier L322 had much smaller brakes and no noise. My SC has incredible brakes, powerful, smooth, quiet. They certainly put off the dust but I live with it for good performance. I have LR rotors on their second set of Pagid pads which was the OEM supplier. If the pads are sliding correctly, the rotors are not grooved, and the fluid is not too old, you probably need to remove and fully clean out the calipers of sludge to allow them to retract fully and evenly. I think that modern multi-piston calipers may be worse for this if the pistons are in sync due to contamination.
The 4.2 SC only have 360mm rotors.Fronts on the Supercharged RR are already 380’s but Brembo makes a kit for 405mm ($$$$)
Like I said before, pads, rotors, caliper hardware are brand new. Calipers and pistons are in excellent condition. No sludge. Brakes only make a groaning noise at the very last half-second before full stop. No other squealing or noise of any kind.If you have noisy brakes, something is wrong. The earlier L322 had much smaller brakes and no noise. My SC has incredible brakes, powerful, smooth, quiet. They certainly put off the dust but I live with it for good performance. I have LR rotors on their second set of Pagid pads which was the OEM supplier. If the pads are sliding correctly, the rotors are not grooved, and the fluid is not too old, you probably need to remove and fully clean out the calipers of sludge to allow them to retract fully and evenly. I think that modern multi-piston calipers may be worse for this if the pistons are in sync due to contamination.
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