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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone done one of these recently? RAVE says just remove the plastic cover and loosen the bolts, but mine doesn't have a cover. And I can't even see one of the bolts, let alone get a socket on it.
Looks like dropping the drive shaft, or removing the exhaust manifold on the drivers side would help, but I don't want to do both of those if I don't have to.
Any advice welcome. (This is a 95 P38 4.0, which recently has been given every indication it wants to die and be left alone.)

Oh, and if it matters, it was running down the road just fine one day and just shut off and I drifted to the side of the road. Will not crank currently. No check engine light, but it did have code P0726
Cheers.
 

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No crank and no Check Engine light means the ECM is not powered usually as a result of the BeCM and ECM losing sync. A failed crank sensor will stop the engine dead but usually without any codes being logged. With no signal from the crank sensor the ECM thinks the engine isn't turning over so doesn't log anything. I've never had to remove anything to change a sensor, GEMS doesn't usually have a cover and the bolts can be got at easily with a 1/4" drive and socket.
 

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No crank and no Check Engine light means the ECM is not powered usually as a result of the BeCM and ECM losing sync. A failed crank sensor will stop the engine dead but usually without any codes being logged. With no signal from the crank sensor the ECM thinks the engine isn't turning over so doesn't log anything. I've never had to remove anything to change a sensor, GEMS doesn't usually have a cover and the bolts can be got at easily with a 1/4" drive and socket.
Yip....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks much for the info. I did some searching and it sounds like the symptom of lost synch on a GEMS is exactly what I'm seeing with no cranking. Sounds like I need the nanocom/testbook but I'm 100 miles from a shop that would have one. Any thoughts on whether it's worth replacing the crank sensor at this point? It'll probably cost me a couple hundred dollars to get it towed to the city, so maybe I'll look at a diagnostic device to resynch... The windows also stopped working right before this happened... I thought it was the window control switch panel again. Maybe that's related?

As for the crank sensor, from the top, it's tucked behind the exhaust mainfold and I can't see it or get a hand on it with the manifold on. From the bottom, if I reach up over the driveshaft I can put my pointer finger on one of the bolts and see it. But I failed to get my quarter inch 8mm socket on it. And it feels like the other bolt doesn't have clearance to get a socket over it, but I'm guessing it has to... (Can't see it, and very difficult to touch...)
Thanks again.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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13 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
follow up on this- I finally got a shop to look at it, and they found a burned starter fuse, and eventually found that the root cause was a melted coil. They replaced both and I'm back on the road... (Crank sensor was fine apparently..)
Anyway thanks for everyone who read and/or commented...

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it was running down the road just fine one day and just shut off and I drifted to the side of the road. Will not crank currently. No check engine light, but it did have code P0726
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54 Posts
A crank sensor change is in everyones future, so when your turn comes...a 1/4" drive set, a 7mm socket, a set of extensions, ( I think 80mm was just right?) and a swivel fitting makes it possible. Take a picture in situ before you remove it in case there is a spacer to be included correctly. ( manual says 4.6 only, but in other pkaces, is unclear). Fish the harness connector up behind the MAF/ Idle Air stuff...tie a piece of string to it before you disconnect it so you can feed the new one back up easily. There is no cover before '99.
CKS RnR,to '97, p407.jpg
 

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Thanks much for the info. I did some searching and it sounds like the symptom of lost synch on a GEMS is exactly what I'm seeing with no cranking. Sounds like I need the nanocom/testbook but I'm 100 miles from a shop that would have one. Any thoughts on whether it's worth replacing the crank sensor at this point? It'll probably cost me a couple hundred dollars to get it towed to the city, so maybe I'll look at a diagnostic device to resynch... The windows also stopped working right before this happened... I thought it was the window control switch panel again. Maybe that's related?

As for the crank sensor, from the top, it's tucked behind the exhaust mainfold and I can't see it or get a hand on it with the manifold on. From the bottom, if I reach up over the driveshaft I can put my pointer finger on one of the bolts and see it. But I failed to get my quarter inch 8mm socket on it. And it feels like the other bolt doesn't have clearance to get a socket over it, but I'm guessing it has to... (Can't see it, and very difficult to touch...)
Thanks again.
Thanks much for the info. I did some searching and it sounds like the symptom of lost synch on a GEMS is exactly what I'm seeing with no cranking. Sounds like I need the nanocom/testbook but I'm 100 miles from a shop that would have one. Any thoughts on whether it's worth replacing the crank sensor at this point? It'll probably cost me a couple hundred dollars to get it towed to the city, so maybe I'll look at a diagnostic device to resynch... The windows also stopped working right before this happened... I thought it was the window control switch panel again. Maybe that's related?

As for the crank sensor, from the top, it's tucked behind the exhaust mainfold and I can't see it or get a hand on it with the manifold on. From the bottom, if I reach up over the driveshaft I can put my pointer finger on one of the bolts and see it. But I failed to get my quarter inch 8mm socket on it. And it feels like the other bolt doesn't have clearance to get a socket over it, but I'm guessing it has to... (Can't see it, and very difficult to touch...)
Thanks again.
On my '95, its 7mm, and a 1/4" ratchet with a swivel joint and just the right combo of extensions makes it possible. Take note of the spacer...photo it.
 
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