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Hi

Can anyone confirm which way you have to unscrew the pulley nut? Is it the normal anti-clockwise as you look at it or is it a reverse thread?

Many thanks
 

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if memory serves it is anti-clockwise.

I removed mine with a strap wrench and a few quick blasts from an impact wrench, and a dash of penetrating lubricant.

good luck!
 

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Normal thread, so anti-clockwise to unscrew. I left the drive belt on for a bit more resistance. If that doesn't work and you don't have a strap wrench large enough, try an old drive belt with a clamp to hold the pulley still.

Greetz,

Filip
 

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I'm dragging this old thread back up as I have a small problem. I removed my engine and gearbox (see my thread ref Flex plate repeated breakage). I hadn't intended at the time of removal to be doing an engine overhaul, merely check things out, replace torque convertor and flexplate and reassemble. Now I'm more into a total renovation and an engine strip down. I need to remove the crankshaft pulley nut and reading a number of posts it seems that this can be a bit of a bugger to get undone. Bearing in mind my engine is out fo the car, flywheel removed, is there a sure-fire way of holding the crankshaft still to be able to undo the nut? I was thinking about a) re-mounting the flywheel and wedging it somehow, b) using an old drive belt and a clamp to hold the pulley and c) fitting bolts to the flywheel mounting end of the crankshaft and using a bar to stop the crankshaft rotating (not sure if that's a good idea though as it might exert loads across two bolts holes that might exceed what the shaft can take).
Any thoughts? My favourite option I think is the old belt and clamp trick but I'd welcome some advice on this point.
Cheers,
Jason
 

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I wouldn't mess with the putting the flywheel back on or wedging things in your crankshaft.

Just concentrate on the front of the car. Put an old belt on it, wrap it around a big breaker bar and wedge it in something that won't slip. I have done this with other cars, but then it is easier to wedge something in the chassis. Now, since it is out of the car, that may be more difficult. A strong impact gun is good b/c it exerts the torque intermittently and with alot of force. Spray it with penetrating oil and let it sit awhile.
 

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spikemd said:
I wouldn't mess with the putting the flywheel back on or wedging things in your crankshaft.

Just concentrate on the front of the car. Put an old belt on it, wrap it around a big breaker bar and wedge it in something that won't slip. I have done this with other cars, but then it is easier to wedge something in the chassis. Now, since it is out of the car, that may be more difficult. A strong impact gun is good b/c it exerts the torque intermittently and with alot of force. Spray it with penetrating oil and let it sit awhile.

Cheers. that sounds like a good method, I'll fire up the air compressor and give it a whirl with the impact driver tomorrow.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I never have t use any strap wrench etc when removing the front pulley bolt with the impact. Just hold the pulley with my hand and hit it with the impact. The bolt will spin right out if your impact gun is up to the job.

Martin
 

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leftlanetruckin said:
I never have t use any strap wrench etc when removing the front pulley bolt with the impact. Just hold the pulley with my hand and hit it with the impact. The bolt will spin right out if your impact gun is up to the job.

Martin

Thanks Martin, I'll give that a try first. I'm finding a few bodges that have been done to my engine, it will be interesting to see what it looks like inside, I will remove the RH cylinder today and have a look see. I'll report any horror stories (or good news, who knows, maybe it has top-hat liners already...)
 

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Well, Martin's method worked, I gave the bolt a squirt of WD40, left it for a while whilst I sorted out my compressor and air tools and then had a go with the impact driver (zipgun). After a few attempts and then turning the wick up on the compressor a little the bolt came undone. Pretty easy really.
I have also now removed the RH cylinder head. All generally looks OK, no sign whatsoever of the dreaded liner drop. Quite a bit of "coke" build up but it shifts easily enough. Some signs that the cylinder head gasket may have been on its way out - some apparent brown, possible scorching marks between the centre two cylinders of that bank. I will be getting heads and block checked for warping etc.
Pistons are noted "A22 M6 B", doesn't mean much to me at this stage, could the "B" denote oversize perhaps?
 

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Hello,

I'm going through my checklist prior to test driving post engine rebuild and reinstallation - I notice that one item outstanding is torque the front pulley bolt (crankshaft pulley bolt). RAVE says I believe 270NM which seems insane to me, my largest torque wrench goes to about 180NM. Any tricks on how best to tighten this? I think I'm probably going to have to remove my radiator assembly again as I should have done this bolt before. Anyway to tighten it without doing that? (I can get my socket and torque wrench on the bolt even with the rads in place, problem is stopping the engine rotating.
Cheers
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Alldata indeed calls for 200ft lbs on the pulley bolt. I have always installed the front pulley before the motor goes in, making it a LOT easier to torque it down. I have my 15yr old hold the flexplate etc while I final torque it, and that stops the motor from turning.
I would really have no issues hitting it with the impact until it stops though. You can always hit another bolt until it stops and test the torque on that to see how tight it is getting it:thumb:
I know mine on the next to highest setting will be @200ft lbs when it stops moving.

Martin
 

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Thanks Martin, I was wondering about getting the air impact driver out and banging it up tight. Looks like I'll be removing the rad assembly tomorrow :)

I wish I'd done it before now but hey, you live and learn and this is my first Rover rebuild :)

Alldata indeed calls for 200ft lbs on the pulley bolt. I have always installed the front pulley before the motor goes in, making it a LOT easier to torque it down. I have my 15yr old hold the flexplate etc while I final torque it, and that stops the motor from turning.
I would really have no issues hitting it with the impact until it stops though. You can always hit another bolt until it stops and test the torque on that to see how tight it is getting it:thumb:
I know mine on the next to highest setting will be @200ft lbs when it stops moving.

Martin
 

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Oh believe me, I found quite a few shortcuts and easier ways to do stuff after the first rebuild mate.
Like putting the RMS in before the cap goes on, and so on.
Can you not just lift the radiator up to allow some room instead of a total removal?

Martin
 

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I might be able to get away with that, depends on how far the unions will flex - I think the aircon lines would be a problem and it might just be as easy to disconnect the whole lot and move it well out of the way. I mentioned that I can get on the bolt with a socket and a torque wrench but I can't stop the engine rotating well so I think that rules out doing it the "easy" way, rad out is probably the way to go. What would be the dire consequences of the bolt not being properly tight?


Oh believe me, I found quite a few shortcuts and easier ways to do stuff after the first rebuild mate.
Like putting the RMS in before the cap goes on, and so on.
Can you not just lift the radiator up to allow some room instead of a total removal?

Martin
 

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The bolt is there to stop the pulley from working its way off. The key locates it on the crank, the belt all but supports it in place, so the bolts is there as insurance.
If you cant get a good reading on the torque wrench because of the engine turning over, then I would hit it with the impact and call it good. I have never had a pulley bolt come loose on me, on any vehicle I have cursed at, oh I meant to say worked on....:lol:

Martin
 

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That was my thought as well, given that the pulley rotates and that it's located via key and the belts holding it straight I thought it unlikely it would go anywhere anyway. I'll get that bolt as tight as I can and call it good. I have a couple of jobs left to do anyway, I noticed I have a very slight oil leak from the oil cooler line that goes in above the oil filter so I will be removing that to double check everything and stop it leaking. Otherwise, I'm pleased with the rebuild, it went fairly smoothly and I learnt a lot about the engine during the process, I actually find the P38 design pretty good, despite all the bad press it gets I think it's an excellent vehicle, possibly let down a little by usage of poorer quality items here and there (such as the stupid exhaust manifold heat shields - why are they not made of stainless with rot proof fittings!) and crappy plastic on some of the connectors.

The bolt is there to stop the pulley from working its way off. The key locates it on the crank, the belt all but supports it in place, so the bolts is there as insurance.
If you cant get a good reading on the torque wrench because of the engine turning over, then I would hit it with the impact and call it good. I have never had a pulley bolt come loose on me, on any vehicle I have cursed at, oh I meant to say worked on....:lol:

Martin
 
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