spikemd said:I wouldn't mess with the putting the flywheel back on or wedging things in your crankshaft.
Just concentrate on the front of the car. Put an old belt on it, wrap it around a big breaker bar and wedge it in something that won't slip. I have done this with other cars, but then it is easier to wedge something in the chassis. Now, since it is out of the car, that may be more difficult. A strong impact gun is good b/c it exerts the torque intermittently and with alot of force. Spray it with penetrating oil and let it sit awhile.
leftlanetruckin said:I never have t use any strap wrench etc when removing the front pulley bolt with the impact. Just hold the pulley with my hand and hit it with the impact. The bolt will spin right out if your impact gun is up to the job.
Alldata indeed calls for 200ft lbs on the pulley bolt. I have always installed the front pulley before the motor goes in, making it a LOT easier to torque it down. I have my 15yr old hold the flexplate etc while I final torque it, and that stops the motor from turning.
I would really have no issues hitting it with the impact until it stops though. You can always hit another bolt until it stops and test the torque on that to see how tight it is getting it:thumb:
I know mine on the next to highest setting will be @200ft lbs when it stops moving.
Oh believe me, I found quite a few shortcuts and easier ways to do stuff after the first rebuild mate.
Like putting the RMS in before the cap goes on, and so on.
Can you not just lift the radiator up to allow some room instead of a total removal?
The bolt is there to stop the pulley from working its way off. The key locates it on the crank, the belt all but supports it in place, so the bolts is there as insurance.
If you cant get a good reading on the torque wrench because of the engine turning over, then I would hit it with the impact and call it good. I have never had a pulley bolt come loose on me, on any vehicle I have cursed at, oh I meant to say worked on....:lol: