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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2006 L320 with transmission problems, or so I thought.
Drove it to a local transmission shop and was told that the only problem the computer showed was a "cam position sensor"
The tech told me to first fix this problem and see if that solved my transmission slipping problem.
I looked for old posts regarding this issue, but couldn't find any that relates.
I found several sensors on EBay ranging from $13 to $200 with the OEMs falling somewhere in the middle.
If anyone out there has any advice, I would appreciate any help.
RAF
 

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Crankshaft or Camshaft? your title does not match the error code.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #3
Re: Camshaft Position Sensor

Thanks ToadHall, after doing lots more research, now I see what you mean. I also bought a Foxwell scanner to see what the code was by myself and the transmission tech was right. The codes I pulled were: P0340-92 and P0345-92. Last week, I replaced the battery as it died on me while looking for other problems - DVD Player, this was while I waited for the scanner. The truck is starts normal, but has RPM increase from ~ 700 to just over 1000 after warming up. I found one sensor on the passenger side on top of or just behind the intake manifold, but have not been able to locate a second one. I really don't know if there is a second one, just assuming because of the bank 1 and bank 2 codes. If anybody could point me to any other posts regarding this matter, I would be grateful.
RAF
 

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Re: Camshaft Position Sensor

from my manual

The camshaft position sensors are installed in each cylinder head at the rear of the intake camshaft. It is a variable reluctance
sensor that provides an input to the ECM regarding the position of the camshaft.

Since it is throwing both banks it would seem to be something that is common in the circuit.

"P0340 Camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction"
"P0345 Camshaft position sensor 2 circuit malfunction"
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #5
Re: Camshaft Position Sensor

arby, thanks for taking the time to respond. Since I don't have an electrical diagram to see how or which wires connect the two separate systems, I was looking for other posts that might have resolved this issue already. I did find some rat poop on top of the intake manifold and I suspect that wiring might be the cause of my problems. Will cont'd to do some more research.
 

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Give me some time, and I will try and post the wiring diagram for the cam position circuit. Your Rover is normally aspirated?
I wouldn’t purchase any sensors (put away the parts cannon) until you establish the sensor(s) have failed. It’s pretty easy to check the the signal from a VRT sensor with a digital voltmeter—you could rule out/in the sensors and move on to powers, grounds, or harness issues.


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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you very much for the diagram Domex. I will print it out and pull some readings, hopefully I will find a solution. Arby, I did find the location of the sensors as you mentioned at the back of the engine on the top side of each cylinder head by looking at the video on this post:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMT5pttFKgE, thanks to eallauto for the upload. I will post what I find with the wiring as soon as I procure another multimeter, mine is not reading resistence. Raf
 

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2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
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Once you have located the sensors, see which ones (maybe both since you have codes for both banks) are coated with oil. Oil leaks will often short out the sensors. Clean them with electrical cleaner, silicon grease around the flange and seal and tightening may recover them. Then search for where the oil is coming from -- probably the cam covers.

On a Maxima with a 3.5l V-6, the front bank is routinely the bad one and kills the engine. Easy to replace on the front, a b**** in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gents, thanks for all your responses. My new multi meter arrived and I was able to do some wiring testing. I read continuity from the ground wire to the battery on both cmp's. I even shook the wiring harness to insure that there wasn't a broken wire within the harness. I tested resistance in both cmp's, while they were installed and read 2.09K ohms. Then, I turned the key to position 1 and tested for a signal between the battery and the second wires going to the connectors to the cmp's. I got something like 1.4mA. Since both cmp's had no visible oil in them or around them, I plugged them back in and started the truck. It started normally, but once it warmed up, the rpms started surging up and down from its normal of 700 rpm. Next, I think I will look at the battery gnd, I see in some of the posts that this is a common problem. I also have to check wires to the ecm, ecu, pcm, but I don't know the difference between all of these modules. I'll keep researching...
 

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2019-2021 Range Rover Sport
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Since you are having a problem with both of them and a transmission shifting problem I would suspect a problem along then can bus line, another module could be failing and sending flakey signals along the can line.

Two questions What transmission problems are you having and what scan tool did you buy does it have full diagnostic capability and coding capabilities?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hello Bill in Long Island, in answer to your question, perhaps I spoke to soon about a possible transmission problem. I believe that instead of a transmission problem, the truck went into 'limp' mode because of the faults it was detecting with the cam position sensors. As I stated in my first post, I took the truck to a transmission shop and they told me that they were reading a code for camshaft position or crankshaft position sensor, I wasn't sure which one at the time. The mechanic did tell me to deal with that problem first before looking into the transmission and that he would change the sensor for $450. I did not took him up on his offer. The scanner that I bought is a Foxwell NT 614, made in china. It does give you diagnostics and coding capabilities, I'm just learning to use it. Thanks for the advice, I will look into the CAN line signals. Unfortunately, it has been raining consistently here in sunny San Diego and I haven't had much time to spend on the truck.
 

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One other possibility here is that the wiring connectors are either loose or worn. Since both the crank and cam sensor codes are stored, I would disconnect and reseat both. One other thing to try is to clear the codes, then address the first one appearing. Typically, if a problem stays long enough, it will set sympathetic codes, or codes unrelated to the original. Magnetic sensors, or reluctor type sensors are very prone to issues with correct gapping, and, as was mentioned earlier, oil saturation can attack wire insulation, causing erratic signals. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got a dry day and got under the hood to disconnect some of the connectors behind the battery. I looked for corrosion and other possible reasons causing my problem. I didn't find anything out of the norm. I re-connected everything and put it all back. I started the truck with no problems showing no check engine light either. After the truck warmed up, I plugged in my scanner. It didn't show anymore faults with the CMPs, but it did give me two other codes: VDM U0401-68 and TCM U2023-86 both intermittent. I also had a little puddle of water in the drivers side carpet. I did not take her out for a run, I still have to put all of the engine covers. I will now start a new search for these codes. If anybody has come up with something similar, please let me know. Raf
 

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Something to consider is the fact that these codes might have been set in error while checking the other sensors and connectors. Anytime the key is on, the system is constantly self-checking things. If you disconnected something intending to reconnect it, and the key was on, it is possible for a sensor to fail a self check because it was disconnected. It sounds to me as if you found an intermittent connection while cleaning things, and cleared the initial codes set. Ray
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the advice Ray, I haven't been able to take the truck out for a ride, because of the rain. I am trying to dry up the carpet and resolve the issue with water getting in from the sunroof drain. I found a disintegrated boot and temporarily replaced it with a 6" piece of clear plastic pipe that takes the water out in the wheel well. I've ordered that part and waiting for it to arrive. While digging under the carpet, I saw multiple wire harnesses that are routed through that side of the truck. As soon as the rain lets out, I will try to disconnect some of those connectors and dry them up. I have other engine lights that are coming on and they deal mostly with the breaks. I can't trust them until I make sure all the connectors are dry. I will keep you posted. Raf
 

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Re: CAM - shaft Position Sensor

couple of questions , where do you find the 2 cam position sensors ? watched video posted of the engine walk and did not help , I do not see them on back side of mine, are they behind the last coil pack ??? Also as for sun roof drain mine are also not draining , so where is bottom of the hose drain too. looking to find out how to clean them out .
thanks
 

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Re: CAM - shaft Position Sensor

does anyone have a picture or diagram or a link to one , that shows the location of the CAM postion sensor ?
thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: CAM - shaft Position Sensor

20190312_111621.jpg Hope this helps Chad. As far as the sunroof drains, remove a chromed plastic vent on each side of the vehicle, just in front of the front door, (youtube videos on how to easily remove) the drain hose is on the back towards the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Re: CAM - shaft Position Sensor

Continue to have problems with the electrical system on my L320. After replacing the boot at the bottom of the sunroof drain and during the process of drying off the carpet, I found two connectors with no mates, see pictures attached. The problem with the Cam Position Sensor and check engine light have gone away and two other new lights are now on, DSC (amber) and BRAKE (black) see picture attached. Some other youtube videos point directly at the 'Steering Angle Sensor' as the cause of all these problems, but I would think that it could be caused by a wet connector powering that sensor. I tried resetting the DSC as descrived on some videos and it works while the wheels are straight, but once they turn, the lights come on again. If anyone has an electrical diagram that shows how this sensor is connected and where the wires might be routed, could you please post it. I would be in your debt. Raf 1.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg
 
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