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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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P1672 Engine anti-theft signal circuit wrong code received Secure ECM, received incorrect code
P1667 is engine disable, same thing.
Before you even think of trying other things

>>> get a friend with a Faultmate, nanaocom or Hawkeye to resync security with the BECM <<<<<

1- get your EKA. If you can't, send me a PM with your VIN nº. If it is NAS, ( you don't say, please include in your profile) they have a generic EKA, I think it is 1515 but please ask the others.
2 - Do the EKA ceremony it is in the general information section and expertly described
3 - if it still won't start get a friend with a Faultmate, nanaocom or Hawkeye to resync it again.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Please tell us what appears on the dash if you try to start.
Try this Only Once. Several attempts can only worsen the situation.
Does it say Incorrect EKA.. can't recall exactly what they say in English? Here or in French it is called incorrect code
.
Or does it say engine disabled?
Or lockout?

I can unlock them.. done it many times and posting from Canada is faster than from the US.

And will leave with a working EKA and whatever you want.

I will try to get your EKA tomorrow if it had one.


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· Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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454 Posts
You can buy the key with your VIN number from Land Rover .
You can also reprogram another second hand key to your car.
But... unfortunately there are cases when the dash does not display the message because it gets hidden by other messages .

You can set the windows any time.

Your car works fine without a remote but in that case you do need the EKA.

I will try get the latter sorted if it was originally sold with EKA. If not we have a dilemma. You either need a working remote or you will have to send your logic board to unlock it and install an EKA option.



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· Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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454 Posts
Please check your number again..
would the first part be this
SALPF1549YA

if this is the case it had no EKA. Sorry.. Like I said it was factory disabled on some vehicles for the US market (don't ask why, I really don't have a clue)
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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there is a way to test a CPS
connect it to a battery and hold a drill with an irregular shaped thing in it near the CPS. I use a hex head bolt or a little hinge.
See if there is a nice signal when you spin it up at about 3-5 mm distance.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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454 Posts
A bit of bad news on the key fobs from dealers.
There are no individual NAS fobs available in the US, I will speculate this applies to Canada as well.
There are now 2 ways to get a working fob.
It turns out you can still buy a Kit with all locks and 2 fobs for about a grand from the dealer.
Plan B is to have Annette, Scotty, or Marty reprogram a fob to work with your Becm.
I believe the caveat with this technique is that the donor fob needs to be from a known Becm, as in they need to read the code for the fob from the Becm it was matched to? (I may be wrong about that bit)

As I said in an earlier post, just because a battery is "New" does not make it "Good". Spontaneous Gearbox fault is 100% voltage related. You either have a bad battery or a loose / corroded connection. Check all main cables. Have the battery tested. A corroded electrical connection, either B+ or earth will admit any number of Gremlins!8-0=
And, yes you would want a Crank Position Sensor, Not a Throttle Position Sensor as a bad CPS will give you the symptoms you are getting.
Also, just turn on the ignition and reset the sunroof, and windows:
Roll one down and hold button for a couple of seconds, then roll it back up and hold the button until the dash says "Window Set". Sunroof the same way and do not forget the sunroof is a 2 way device. This will clear the messages that may be blocking something important.

Also, and this is important for us all to bear in mind: The hack mechanic has broken something, and then been in to the centre console guts to boodge a fix of some sort. We are probably dealing with multiple problems at this point......Just sayin'

Annette, I understand where you are going with this test, however It sound's like you are asking him to connect 12 volts to the Hall effect circuit? then read the signal generated by a spinning piece of metal on what, exactly?
Sound's like an oscilloscope job......Possibly some clarification on this?
Fobs...You can buy them from LR UK
As to the signal.. sure a primitive oscilloscope does the job, I have an old Metex multimeter that does the trick.

Also you can do it with the frequency option on your multimeter.


Frankly.. I guess it is time somebody looks at that BECM

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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454 Posts
As to matching.. I had a new key from Britain with an incorrect blade.
Rather than pay in 2 x transport and customs I just kept it and ordered another one for my client.

The wrong blade one I used 2 years later on a different car, as it happens a 4.6 2000 MY one. It was for a 1997 diesel.

So yes it can be done. Even with a second hand one.

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· Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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454 Posts
Regarding fobs.
OK here is the good news.. any key for Central america will do for you, same frequency as up north.
I will have a look around

As I could order them from Bearmach for my clients I am sure there is a way.
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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454 Posts
Here is how to test a CKP Multimeter needed.

connect whatever FINE probe you fancy to the back of the plug . on the early one it is 11 and 12. Ask somebody to try to start and read frequency.
if there isn't one, it is dead.

2 nd method, if it is already out.

connect you meter probes to the connectors. Put a hex nut or a hinge in your electric drill and approach the skp sSlowoooowly. at about 3-5 mms you get a reading.
 
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