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2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone, I am new to RR and love the ride, glad to join some friends who enjoy theirs,

I have recently purchased a 2000 Range Rover 4.0 SE, had a few problems recently, cranks but wont start P1672 and P1667 are the two codes coming up, I am disappointed with the local mechanic,good guy but messed up here, Chronologically:


1. Truck ran fine but had been neglected -
2. In the first week I got fuse fault code messages that disappeared after I cleaned up the fuse box
3. A while later after stopping it would not re start, nothing - fusees seamed fine
4. Took it to a local mechanic who did find a fuse not working and he fixed a poor positive battery cable- however, when he went to remove it from the hoist it would not come out of park-he took all the panels off inside the cab and removed a pin that was stopping it from coming out of park? I thought that was weird,
5. I drove away and noticed many things not functioning and I let the mechanic know
6. Next day drove to work and it would not re start- crank but not start-
7 last two weeks I have ordered and installed a new fuse box under the hood- new battery yesterday- a new TPS, it cranks but will not start P1672 and P1667 are the engine fault codes I am getting and a gearbox fault message --- windows are not set messages displays right now, but that is simple - all the fuse fault messages have disappeared


Sorry for the long read - do you have any ideas that would help cranks but wont start,
Thank you for reading
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,422 Posts
Welcome.
A bit more info, please?
Gems or Bosch?
Where on the planet are you?
You replaced the TPS? you possibly meant CPS, since this could be letting you down.
Gearbox fault is typically a battery voltage issue.....I know, you replaced it. Now go clean and tighten ALL of the main battery leads. Then get it tested, as there are a lot of dodgy batteries out there.
Did you get the correct fuse box for yours? 2000 was a transition period, and I seem to recall there were 2 for gems and one for Bosch. Is the new one the EXACT same part number?
Next, You have a working fob or 2?
If not, it will immobilise itself with unwanted consequences.......
Get a copy of RAVE.
GET A new mechanic, as yours is a hack.
Look forward to hearing responses.
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
P1672 Engine anti-theft signal circuit wrong code received Secure ECM, received incorrect code
P1667 is engine disable, same thing.
Before you even think of trying other things

>>> get a friend with a Faultmate, nanaocom or Hawkeye to resync security with the BECM <<<<<

1- get your EKA. If you can't, send me a PM with your VIN nº. If it is NAS, ( you don't say, please include in your profile) they have a generic EKA, I think it is 1515 but please ask the others.
2 - Do the EKA ceremony it is in the general information section and expertly described
3 - if it still won't start get a friend with a Faultmate, nanaocom or Hawkeye to resync it again.
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,422 Posts
Thanks annette, I was not sure what the codes were, as I have Both FMII and Nano, I get the info in plain Engrish........Must be a GEMS as an Bosh will not even crank.....
This is why I mentioned the fob, as you have somehow immobilised yourself.
The truck is assuming it is being stolen.
Gallon J. As annette says, DO NOT try the "Remove battery cable, put in Pos II and replace batt cable", or anything other than the EKA.
IF it has EKA enabled, it is ~Probably~ 1515 as this seems to be default for NAS....Of course, we have no idea whatsoever where you are, so this may be invalid....
If you are lucky, that will get things going.
Above all.......Don't panic!..... You are are the bottom of the P-38 learning curve, and we are here to help........
 

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Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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772 Posts
As Annette says, your immobilised, Thor’s will crank even when immobilised, the becm might have to go to one of the few people that can reset and sort it out, I had pretty much the same thing happen with mine.
without knowing where you are it’s hard to suggest anyone, you might be lucky and get away with entering the EKA code, you need to find a mechanic that understands these cars, it sounds like your mechanic doesn’t.
it would be to your advantage to purchase a nanocom or similar, sounds like you’ve been throwing money at parts that weren’t needed.
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hi Annette/Bolt/Chris,

Thank you so much for responding,
I updated my profile so you will see I am on the West Coast of BC in Port Hardy, the truck is:
1. US
2. Bosch
3. I may be wrong on the TPS, but I was thinking that changing out the Throttle Position Sensor may help? it didnt, and appologize if that is not the Acronym
4. I tried the 1515 and believe I followed the instructions correctly, there was some sounds and beeps, but still crank no start
5. I will try and find a Faultmate, nanaocom or Hawkeye or someone with one,

I really appreciate the response and I am trying not to Panic, but yikes this is weird , lol
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
Please tell us what appears on the dash if you try to start.
Try this Only Once. Several attempts can only worsen the situation.
Does it say Incorrect EKA.. can't recall exactly what they say in English? Here or in French it is called incorrect code
.
Or does it say engine disabled?
Or lockout?

I can unlock them.. done it many times and posting from Canada is faster than from the US.

And will leave with a working EKA and whatever you want.

I will try to get your EKA tomorrow if it had one.


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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thank you Annette,

Look forward to what you find, and one thing I forgot to mention to all, is I only received the single key when I purchased and no remote, so I will be asking the dealer about replacements if they are available, once I can drive to the dealer,
thank you again, ,
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Annette,

The dash does not read any thing about immobilized, I get Gearbox Fault, then it goes through a series of LR window not set, through all the windows and that is it,

I can reset the windows once I get it running,

Thank you,
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
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455 Posts
You can buy the key with your VIN number from Land Rover .
You can also reprogram another second hand key to your car.
But... unfortunately there are cases when the dash does not display the message because it gets hidden by other messages .

You can set the windows any time.

Your car works fine without a remote but in that case you do need the EKA.

I will try get the latter sorted if it was originally sold with EKA. If not we have a dilemma. You either need a working remote or you will have to send your logic board to unlock it and install an EKA option.



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Super Moderator
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2,332 Posts
Try a decent battery first and then run through as many bits of the electrical tests sticky as you can. Gearbox Fault will come up if the battery voltage is low.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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772 Posts
If the display isn’t saying anything then it does sound like the becm has gone into an alarmed state, exactly what happened to mine a while back, if that’s the case Annette should be able to sort it if needed, just one other thing, what’s your fuel level, if the lights on, ive known of many that have been parked and won’t start afterwards, to a big tank and a slope can affect if the pumps getting fuel or not.
 

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Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes , Thank you,
I put a brand new battery in thinking it would help, this has not helped yet, fuel is half a tank and from when I filled I am sure that is correct,
A mechanic at Atlantic British said to replace the crank position sensor? any thoughts?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover P38A
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11 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yes, so I have put in a new throttle position sensor, new battery, new fuse box, thinking initially it would be the fuse box,

I will try and order a key today from the dealer, very interested in what Annette finds out about the EKA,

Thanks again, its been two weeks, when am I supposed to panic, lol,
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
Please check your number again..
would the first part be this
SALPF1549YA

if this is the case it had no EKA. Sorry.. Like I said it was factory disabled on some vehicles for the US market (don't ask why, I really don't have a clue)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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772 Posts
The CPS is easy to change, to l/h side, below the exhaust mounted back of engine to gearbox, has a silver cover over with 2 nuts, another 2 nuts inside holding it in place, so it’s a on your back job underneath
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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455 Posts
there is a way to test a CPS
connect it to a battery and hold a drill with an irregular shaped thing in it near the CPS. I use a hex head bolt or a little hinge.
See if there is a nice signal when you spin it up at about 3-5 mm distance.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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1,422 Posts
A bit of bad news on the key fobs from dealers.
There are no individual NAS fobs available in the US, I will speculate this applies to Canada as well.
There are now 2 ways to get a working fob.
It turns out you can still buy a Kit with all locks and 2 fobs for about a grand from the dealer.
Plan B is to have Annette, Scotty, or Marty reprogram a fob to work with your Becm.
I believe the caveat with this technique is that the donor fob needs to be from a known Becm, as in they need to read the code for the fob from the Becm it was matched to? (I may be wrong about that bit)

As I said in an earlier post, just because a battery is "New" does not make it "Good". Spontaneous Gearbox fault is 100% voltage related. You either have a bad battery or a loose / corroded connection. Check all main cables. Have the battery tested. A corroded electrical connection, either B+ or earth will admit any number of Gremlins!8-0=
And, yes you would want a Crank Position Sensor, Not a Throttle Position Sensor as a bad CPS will give you the symptoms you are getting.
Also, just turn on the ignition and reset the sunroof, and windows:
Roll one down and hold button for a couple of seconds, then roll it back up and hold the button until the dash says "Window Set". Sunroof the same way and do not forget the sunroof is a 2 way device. This will clear the messages that may be blocking something important.

Also, and this is important for us all to bear in mind: The hack mechanic has broken something, and then been in to the centre console guts to boodge a fix of some sort. We are probably dealing with multiple problems at this point......Just sayin'

Annette, I understand where you are going with this test, however It sound's like you are asking him to connect 12 volts to the Hall effect circuit? then read the signal generated by a spinning piece of metal on what, exactly?
Sound's like an oscilloscope job......Possibly some clarification on this?
 

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Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
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455 Posts
A bit of bad news on the key fobs from dealers.
There are no individual NAS fobs available in the US, I will speculate this applies to Canada as well.
There are now 2 ways to get a working fob.
It turns out you can still buy a Kit with all locks and 2 fobs for about a grand from the dealer.
Plan B is to have Annette, Scotty, or Marty reprogram a fob to work with your Becm.
I believe the caveat with this technique is that the donor fob needs to be from a known Becm, as in they need to read the code for the fob from the Becm it was matched to? (I may be wrong about that bit)

As I said in an earlier post, just because a battery is "New" does not make it "Good". Spontaneous Gearbox fault is 100% voltage related. You either have a bad battery or a loose / corroded connection. Check all main cables. Have the battery tested. A corroded electrical connection, either B+ or earth will admit any number of Gremlins!8-0=
And, yes you would want a Crank Position Sensor, Not a Throttle Position Sensor as a bad CPS will give you the symptoms you are getting.
Also, just turn on the ignition and reset the sunroof, and windows:
Roll one down and hold button for a couple of seconds, then roll it back up and hold the button until the dash says "Window Set". Sunroof the same way and do not forget the sunroof is a 2 way device. This will clear the messages that may be blocking something important.

Also, and this is important for us all to bear in mind: The hack mechanic has broken something, and then been in to the centre console guts to boodge a fix of some sort. We are probably dealing with multiple problems at this point......Just sayin'

Annette, I understand where you are going with this test, however It sound's like you are asking him to connect 12 volts to the Hall effect circuit? then read the signal generated by a spinning piece of metal on what, exactly?
Sound's like an oscilloscope job......Possibly some clarification on this?
Fobs...You can buy them from LR UK
As to the signal.. sure a primitive oscilloscope does the job, I have an old Metex multimeter that does the trick.

Also you can do it with the frequency option on your multimeter.


Frankly.. I guess it is time somebody looks at that BECM

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