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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a '99 Bosch 4.0SE (133k miles) that has an overheating problem. A few problems:

1. The PO neglected to tell me that it is stuck in park. I disconnected the linkage under the truck and manually shifted into 'N'. The brake lights come on. When I put the key into the 2nd position (accessory mode?) I can move the shifter out of park. Is it a solenoid or something?

2. There is a noise that comes from the ABS pump whenever I hit the brake. The ABS light, (!) parking brake light, and TC traction control light all come on when I hit the pedal. No ABS fault, but everynow and then a 'Traction Fault" will pop up. The brake pedal feels fine. I havent driven it though. Could this be a bad ABS Accumulator?

3. PO says it overheats, and I checked the oil and it sure enough is milky. Bad head gasket I assume. Is there anyway to check that it is not a cracked head/block? I dont want to spend money on the gaskets if I can use it towards a new head/block.

4. Idleing. PO said it wont idle. I cranked it over, and it wouldnt idle and shut off. I didnt really try though, since the oil is probably no good and I didnt want to damage it. Plus there is a bad exhaust leak somewhere, I could barely hear, sounded like a jet engine. What would make it not idle correct? Could it be from damage to the engine from overheating?

5. Somewhere along the line, suspension was changed to coils. I would like to maybe try and sell the compressor/valve block to try and recoupe some of my expenses. Is there anyway to test and make sure these work? Can I remove them and still drive normally with a coil conversion?

Thanks a lot, I have been doing a lot of research on here, and just want to be sure before I spend any $ that I dont have to.
 

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Keep good friends with your bank manager

1 - Yes
2 - Prob a bad ABS Accumulator
3 - Strip down to check
4 - lots of reasons for bad idle, prob knackered engine due to overheating
5 - you can remove them if it has been changed to coils.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If it is a bad solenoid in the shifter, can it be repaired, or do I have to find a new one? and if I have to get a new one, where can I get it? I checked atlantic british and they didnt have any listed

Another question- When I was under the car manually shifting into N, I noticed the wire to one of the O2 sensors looked like it had been pulled out of the connector. Would this lead to the rough idle?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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nickm347 said:
It was cheap. I couldnt pass it up.
I hope it was insanely cheap, because the bills are going to start adding up soon. But I wish you the best, at least these beasties are pretty easy to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I paid pretty cheap. I plan on doing the work myself, just want to double check with more experienced members here on the board.

Is the '99 4.0SE really that bad compared to other years?
 

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Is yours a gems or bosch rangie. We run ours on a shoestring but I think you have taken this to new heights. Hopefully the body and interior are in mint condition to make your efforts worthwhile. The great thing is that someone on here has likely had your issues and will chime in. Good luck with the repairs and I believe the newer the better. It is more likely important that you get an engine block with a higher grading and that it has been maintained with some respect, which yours may not, due to the evidence of a coil conversion. We bought ours, sight unseen from a dodge dealer. RR [with failed air suspension]was traded for a "gangsta" chrysler 300. His loss, our gain. Fortunately, in spite of many issues, we've done over 20k with it so I won't begrudge her when the engine comes due. In spite of the numerous repairs required most of what I've checked/changed is oem or quality aftermarket. :D
 
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