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Discussion Starter #1
Guys - most may not have this size, but for those running a different size, is a steering shimmy more visible at higher speeds (above 50 mph) with the type of thread design. I had the shop put on the 275/45 and its still there but not as much as the 285/50. Balancing was checked 4 times on the 285/50, even road forced. Going to ask him to put the 285/50's back on so I can compare again on a smoother road. The 275/45 looks wimpy compared to the 285/50

Not sure if its the Dallas (TX) concrete roads that aggravates the vibration more. Would like anyone's feed back on their Zeon LTZ and possibly why the 285/50 would vibrate\shimmy the steering more
 

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I hear you I......Ihave a shimmy on my 2010 when going above 65mph and giving it the gas. Seems like the shimmy for me happens then only. Why under these conditions only?
 

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T - if the shop is willing to swap from the 50 series down to the 45 and that eliminates most of the shimmy, that's not a bad trade off...make sure they're using the stick on weights and that they are really doing a great job on the Hunter road force balancing...and perhaps that there is not a speck of mud on the rims at all.
 

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While not the same, I have the 285/60/18 LTZs (almost the same diameter) and have had no problems at all. Perhaps the 285s have a flat spot or something, maybe they've been sitting a long time and just need to get back to round? I'd have to think if the machine says it's balanced, then it's balanced. Maybe you can ask them about the specs for balancing - perhaps the 275 gets more in spec (if that makes sense)? :think:
 

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FTR.

I've used the Hunter balancing machines before and they should be getting spectrum perfect 0-0 reading after stick on weights !
Pump 40Psi into the tyres and swap the ones with the most vibration to the rear end & the least vibration pair to the front end.

Another issue is one of the tyres might be out of round, which creates steering wobble and violent vibration at freeway speeds.
How much weight are they using per wheel/tyre combo as this can give you an indication of the quality of your 20" set dude ?

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Paul - They are using a mix of weights on the outer edge as well as stick on. I may take it to another shop on Monday to have the outer weights removed and us on stick on. Now that you mention it, I remember reading some tech bulletin that only stick on's to be used or am i hallucinating again. I put the 285/50 back on yesterday afternoon - the 275/40 look too blah .... They will switch me down to 275/45 next week if I like to - discount tire has been great.

TripleE said:
Maybe you can ask them about the specs for balancing - perhaps the 275 gets more in spec (if that makes sense)? :think:
Not quite sure I follow but they tried it on a 2 regular machines they have as well as the Hunter Douglas (road force).

Vinniman - I think there is an issue there; they have put in less air - 35/37 (F/R). I will put 40Psi in later this morning. That should only make the ride stiffer correct, should not affect the shimmy? Not sure how much weight they put on. Will take off the tire and find out.
 

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FTR.

Sounds like Discount tires is more like Dodgy Brothers if they've placed snap on weights to the outside edge of your new wheels ?
Only stick-on weights should be used with your specific application and their behaviour signals problems with those tyres dude.

Nearly all of us shy away from 'Cooper' tyres down-under as they have a poor reputation for quality & extreme heat performance.
The ride at 40Psi all round should not have too much downside, just a way to measure the possible shimmy if there's tramlining !
If all else fails on Monday, get them to order a set of Pro-Comp All Terrain tyres in 275/55R20 that's much better quality rubber.

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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vinniman said:
FTR. Sounds like Discount tires is more like Dodgy Brothers if they've placed snap on weights to the outside edge of your new wheels ?
Only stick-on weights should be used with your specific application and their behaviour signals problems with those tyres dude./
The Discount Tire chain is a high quality chain, but you have got an inexperienced guy working on the project. Most definitely it's only stick on weights required, nothing on the outside of the rim. The tire pressure as "Vinni-dude (???)-from Oz-man" recommends at 40 or 42 a good idea, I run 40 all around on the 285/60 as well, and it can contribute a bit to the tire running better, and perhaps not as influenced by the grooves on the road. Oddly enough, on the sports car that was exactly the issue, I was getting a bit of what appeared to be a flat spot shimmy, but the tire pressure was too low, upon upping it to the recommended PSI/BAR, the shimmy is gone completely.

The 45 series Cooper is also decent enough to still throw it around turns, while satisfying the mild offroading, but it's definitelly going to be a rough ride on rocks or boulders as you cannot air down, but if you like the beefier footprint/volume of the 50 series...should be fine - always bearing in mind that 4mm clearance...

Let us know when you're down in Houston T, you'd be welcome to join us for fun run to San Luis Pass on Galveston island and try out those new treads on the sand.
 

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PJPR.

Respect ! Reminds me when I was fiddling with my Opel Omega GSi3000 rocketship-as Jezza once said, "Oversteer for England".

Did I mention I had 1mm clearance on the front end of my Opel with Spax shocks, then switched to Koni adjustables & got 2mm ?

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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Weird... I had that for a while before taking out those spacers. To this day I think there is something inherently wrong with the front end of the RRS. Too many people have/had shimmy issues for there not to be. Maybe we need some concrete resonance dampers in the front too? Common LR, show off that stellar engineering ingenuity and bolt on some more concrete.
 

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It's not the tires! Trust me, I've been through this same crap with a 99'RR, 03'RR and now an 07 RR Supercharged. I do a lot(80%) of my driving on the freeway. All of these vehicles were awesome when I first got them. However, they are ultra sensitive to minor road bumps and as time wears on they become even more reactive to small road problems. Now it is happening again with the RRS. Had new tires put on(Michelins) to eliminate that possibility. Had the balancing done three times now(flat spots are bullshit). Still get vibration once over 55mph. But, not over all road surfaces. I'll bet you you can find a road where you will not experience the problem(it will be a perfect road surface though). I believe this problem is related to the air suspension system and road feedback. You will be changing tires and balancing them till you are bluee in the face.....it will not solve your problem. Of course the dealer can never duplicate this problem in the shop so good luck there also. Other than this pain in the butt problem, the vehicles have been awesome for me. Great offroad and great low end power when pulling boat. :roll:
 

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roveurboat said:
It's not the tires! Trust me, I've been through this same crap with a 99'RR, 03'RR and now an 07 RR Supercharged. I do a lot(80%) of my driving on the freeway. All of these vehicles were awesome when I first got them. However, they are ultra sensitive to minor road bumps and as time wears on they become even more reactive to small road problems. Now it is happening again with the RRS. Had new tires put on(Michelins) to eliminate that possibility. Had the balancing done three times now(flat spots are bullshit). Still get vibration once over 55mph. But, not over all road surfaces. I'll bet you you can find a road where you will not experience the problem(it will be a perfect road surface though). I believe this problem is related to the air suspension system and road feedback. You will be changing tires and balancing them till you are bluee in the face.....it will not solve your problem. Of course the dealer can never duplicate this problem in the shop so good luck there also. Other than this pain in the butt problem, the vehicles have been awesome for me. Great offroad and great low end power when pulling boat. :roll:
What you describe has been my exact experience but my ride is a 2010 with 3K miles. It did become more noticeable with snow tires.
 

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Frisco,
Are those new wheels you bought hub-centric?

If they're not, it can be a challenge to get a good balance on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
gooseyloosey - Not sure if this is hub-centric. How do I find out.

I found LTB00030 posted on another topic stating that stick-on weights must be used and a "five fingered" clamp needs to be used to support the wheel\tire assembly on the balance machine. Heading back to D/T to get this done.
 

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Frisco_TX_RRS said:
gooseyloosey - Not sure if this is hub-centric. How do I find out.
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=91&

Assuming the wheel tire combo is balanced correctly off the car, you can use lug centric wheels and not have problems but make sure of two things:

1. the OEM lug nut seat profile is correct for the aftermarket wheels (if the wheel has a tapered seat don't use a round seat lug nut--I can't remember what the RRS has).
2. the lug centric wheels are torqued up correctly with no load on them.

Fyi. On lug nuts. I lost a lug nut on my '08 after I had to change a flat on the side of the road a year ago. When I went to get a replacement the dealer asked me the VIN#. Apparently there are two different P/N# on the '08--not sure of the reason.
 

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I tthink you all are missing the point here. In the past, the dealer has had me on a wild goose chase withe all of these silly possible cures. Bottom line is this, find a perfectly smooth roadway(good luck) and see if you experience the shimmy and vibration. Sometime just sections of a roadway may be good. I noticed this on the freeway a lot where I'll feel a slight vibration or shimmy and then a minute later it's gone. The vehicle can't possibly turn the vibration on and off! I had wheels out of balance already on my 03RR and there was no question about it, lots of vibration. Sorry, RR's are built for offroad, Freeway performance does suffer because of this. Some of us just notice it more than others.
 

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roveurboat said:
I tthink you all are missing the point here.
The point being...that they should shimmy?
 

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roveurboat said:
I tthink you all are missing the point here. In the past, the dealer has had me on a wild goose chase withe all of these silly possible cures. Bottom line is this, find a perfectly smooth roadway(good luck) and see if you experience the shimmy and vibration. Sometime just sections of a roadway may be good. I noticed this on the freeway a lot where I'll feel a slight vibration or shimmy and then a minute later it's gone. The vehicle can't possibly turn the vibration on and off! I had wheels out of balance already on my 03RR and there was no question about it, lots of vibration. Sorry, RR's are built for offroad, Freeway performance does suffer because of this. Some of us just notice it more than others.
I'm not missing it......I agree
 

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OK, Just don't want anyone pulling their hair out like I was trying to figure this annoying problem out. I've always wondered if this is a known problem for LR and they just keep feeding us a variety pack of reasons why it may be happening. :think:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Folks - the clear any confusion - issue I am facing with and started this thread is that I am only getting a vibration after geeting the stomer wheels. There was no vibration on my 19".

I put on 285/50's intially and and then stepped down to 275/45 and the vibration was still there. Occurs on all sufaces including the smoothest road I found in Dallas this weekend.

Trying to pinpoint the vibration if it could be due to the bad balacing because the tire place used weights on the inside edge instead on stick-ons and also did not use the 5 prong adaptor as listed in LTB 00030 recommended by LR for proper balancing.

My initial concern was the tire thread design causing this - but that does not seem the case with folks running similar tires. Will 1st isolate the balancing issue possibly due to the weights \ hub centric etc before I think its another mechanical issue. Mechanical could be also the issue per LTB 0030 which seems consistent that the vibration starts exactly at 50 and goes away below 50 needing the steering geer to be replaced.

Will keep you informed - getting this resovled as I type away.

Thank you
 
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