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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi All,

2001 RR 4.6: I have a coolant leak where my bleeder hose connects to the radiator spigot. not continuously dripping but when brought up to temp it will puddle up like the picture shows below. Coolant is much cheaper than breaking off the bleeder spigot, but I hate knowing it's leaking. Any suggestions to fix this?
Coolant leak.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Remove the hose, see if the spigot is cracked or if it is leaking around the clamp. If so, cut off an inch, and use a screw type clamp.
If the spigot is cracked a bit at it's base, you could try cleaning well and using a good quality epoxy.
If it snaps off in your hand, that is good in that it will now need to be replaced and will not snap off in the middle of a trip stranding you or potentially toasting the engine!.
 

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The pipe looks to me like fuel hose too. Made in US suggests it will be an imperial size and not 8mm like it should be either. Fuel hose goes hard when used with coolant (note how the clip has not sunk into the hose) so it may be that you just need to replace it with something intended for coolant.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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the best repair procedure is to replace the rad as it has run its course and it is brittle, granted the spigot is a bit delicate and on a precarious location but normally does not fail with out human intervention.
a temporary repair is to install a 2 inch long metal pipe and secure with epoxy, keep in mind it is only a temporary repair as the heat and pressure will expand and weaken the epoxy on a constant manner thus leading to regular follow up and eventually complete failure.
 

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The pipe looks to me like fuel hose too. Made in US suggests it will be an imperial size and not 8mm like it should be either. Fuel hose goes hard when used with coolant (note how the clip has not sunk into the hose) so it may be that you just need to replace it with something intended for coolant.

Very good point!
Noticed the branding after posting. probably too large......need a screw type clamp...... Both ends!
As for the rad? Does not look too bad.
change or tighten the hose, and if the spigot is not broken, leave it be.
 

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I'm not sure I agree about using a screw clamp. The small sizes are the worst, they tend to oval and not put even pressure 360 degrees on the hose. Stick with the stock or Oetiker style clamp. Or T-bolt style clamp but I haven't seen them this small. If you ever work with vacuum or gas connections, it teaches you how bad screw clamps are.
 

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A good quality properly sized screw and band type hose clamp will work just fine.
The trouble happens when you use one larger than intended.
In that case, your point is completely valid, they will not seal properly.
 

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Sure, it probably will work fine at these relatively low pressures. But its not an upgrade over the stock spring clamp. No reason to change them out unless they get bent or broken.
 

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yup, replace the radiator someone previously went off on a steroid induced fit and broke the nipple off you can see the epoxy they thought would work to hold it.
 

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Hey Toadie?
Would you care to elucidate on the epoxy theory?
All I see is an slightly oversized piece of hose and some dried mineral salts, as well as the puddled coolant the OP alluded to.
I see no evidence of a repair having been made?
Still say to get the correct size hose and clamp, or the stock pipe and hose assembly.
In the meantime, perhaps Drinkhard could fill us in on the state of the nipple?
 

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Sure, it probably will work fine at these relatively low pressures. But its not an upgrade over the stock spring clamp. No reason to change them out unless they get bent or broken.
I find the stock spring clamps tend to lose clamping force after being removed several times, so a correctly sized screw clamp is definitely an upgrade. And gives you some feedback on the clamping force, especially when using non-standard hoses.

Filip
 

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I find the stock spring clamps tend to lose clamping force after being removed several times, so a correctly sized screw clamp is definitely an upgrade. And gives you some feedback on the clamping force, especially when using non-standard hoses.
I know that this seems like a logical conclusion but if research this a bit, you will find many telling you not to use worm drive clamps on auto cooling systems. Its probably why the little plastic nipple gets broken in the first place. My own experience with screw clamps failing is with other application using higher pressure or vacuum systems, for those, band clamps are the ticket. But for automotive the typical recommendation is to stay with spring clamps due to the heating and cooling cycles. Screw clamps are great for emergencies but pretty much nothing else. Not that this guy is the definative expert but one of many recommending spring clamps. http://www.motorweek.org/features/goss_garage/clamps-hoses
 

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The main reason spring clamps are used in automotive, is ease of production. If you have to do 1000s of clamps, saving a bit of time on each will save a lot of money. That doesn't mean it's the better solution. I still prefer a properly tightened screw or band clamp to a fit-and-forget spring. There were used on cars for many decades, only when automated production took off the spring clamps became popular.
 

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Escape - Is this turning into an argument for the sake of it? Sure, manufacturers use spring clamps to save money. But the cost of the clamp is nothing. A spring clamp is selected by an engineer based on its tension. It supplies a constant, 360 degree compression. Its cheaper to install, doesn't require a specific torque value and doesn't fail. Its better and cheaper. This type of design is covered in SAE standards. A worm clamp can be used per SAE spec for special applications but requires a torque spec and periodic tightening. So if you think something is wrong with the coolant hose clamps in a P38, by all means redesign them with the proper width, proper torque, and periodically confirm they haven't loosened. If your OEM clamps have carried you this far without a leak, I suggest sticking with the OEM clamp. Changing out your clamps with screw clamps reminds me of things like randomly cutting holes in air boxes or arbitrarily up sizing your exhaust pipes. I'm sure the engineers could have saved on their education and just used good common sense.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Back on the actual subject...
Just replace the radiator and be done with it. Bodge it and prepare to buy a set of head gaskets, if you're lucky.
Put whatever clamps you want on the hose, and get on with life. I've run both, and have had pretty much zero issues in a cooling system

Martin
 

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Yes, Back on the OPs post.Martin, have you had a good look at the photo he posted? Rad looks ok to me. No sign of Toadie's "Epoxy bodge job" at all......
Looks like a weepy hose due to an spring type clamp on an oversized, and as has been mentioned, probably fuel type hose, so possibly stiff rubber as well.
How the heck this became a pissing match about clamps is remarkable, but as we have not heard back from the OP at all, it is probably safe to say he has been scared off! by the bickering :shock:
Be nice to get a final report.
Cheers!
PS: I was in the engine room, and counted.There are 154 screw type hose clamps of all sizes most are Proper Made-In-The-UK Jubilee clips on my Cats, and all of them have been 100% reliable for over 30 years. HA!:dance:
 

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I certainly don't want this to turn into an argument. I'd be happy to just agree to disagree. ;-)

I don't claim spring clamps don't do the job, and I'm sure they were properly designed. But that's when everything is new. On a 20+ year old car, with old hoses, a great number of heat cycles and whatever else may have happened, I find screw clamps a better and easier method. If you fit new spring clamps every time, no argument. When they've been used for several years, fitted and refitted a number of times, I prefer to place my trust in screw clamps. No evidence either way, I've had both types fail at some point. I just prefer the 'personal touch' of tightening a screw clamp.

More importantly, where are we on the radiator fix/ replacement? Do we have a happy Range Rover owner again, or is she still marking her territory?

Filip
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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I replace the radiator on any new Rover we buy, or comes through my shop. Very cheap insurance, when the Behr ones an be had from Amazon etc.
Ive never had an issue reusing the OEM clamps myself, but that certainly isn't to say it can't happen.
No idea on the OP though........ maybe he is a one post wonder, or he did get scared off by the regulars rofl
Martin
 
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