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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Gents and happy new year.

I headed out to my office this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of driving with one stop, I saw that my rear window was foggy and thought that was odd, so I checked again and then noticed white fumes coming out of the side of the hood/bonnet. After which a message came on the dash saying "Check Coolant".

I stopped the car, and the fumes were all over. Popped the hood open and saw lime green coolant all over the engine bay and a disconnect coolant hose. I plugged it back and waited till the fumes were much reduced then drove it to my office (a distance of 1 block.) The car stayed parked in front of my office for about 2+ hours before I attempted to drive it to a car parts store to get a replacement coolant which I got and filled up the coolant reservoir.

After the fill up, I noticed that the "Check Coolant Level" still came on when I stopped over at Sams Club. Also I noticed that the Heater would blow hot for a few minutes then switch to cold alternatively. This went on for the entire time I drove the car from Sams club (after adding the coolant) to my house.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong ?
 

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maverixz said:
Hello Gents and happy new year.

I headed out to my office this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of driving with one stop, I saw that my rear window was foggy and thought that was odd, so I checked again and then noticed white fumes coming out of the side of the hood/bonnet. After which a message came on the dash saying "Check Coolant".

I stopped the car, and the fumes were all over. Popped the hood open and saw lime green coolant all over the engine bay and a disconnect coolant hose. I plugged it back and waited till the fumes were much reduced then drove it to my office (a distance of 1 block.) The car stayed parked in front of my office for about 2+ hours before I attempted to drive it to a car parts store to get a replacement coolant which I got and filled up the coolant reservoir.

After the fill up, I noticed that the "Check Coolant Level" still came on when I stopped over at Sams Club. Also I noticed that the Heater would blow hot for a few minutes then switch to cold alternatively. This went on for the entire time I drove the car from Sams club (after adding the coolant) to my house.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong ?
What hose popped off? Apparently when a quick disconnect hose pops off it requires replacement as it's going to keep failing...

You might have air in your lines too, pump the hose coming out of the rad a few times with the cap off, you should see the coolant level indicator sink down after the bubble is released.


Also never ever drive your car when you're having a cooling failure... Pull of and repair, or get it towed, you can easily ruin the engine if the cooling system isn't functioning properly.
 
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a) What type of coolant did you use?
b) Did you get all bubbles out of the system?

If you used anything other than the LR coolant, you are sure to have more failure down the road, and judging by your photo your Rover is an 03-04 which means that road is not very long.

You should drain your system and refill with the correct coolant after you replace all the hoses. Once you refill, drive it for a little while running the heater on full. Then top it off again and repeat.

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #4
brad s1 said:
maverixz said:
Hello Gents and happy new year.

I headed out to my office this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of driving with one stop, I saw that my rear window was foggy and thought that was odd, so I checked again and then noticed white fumes coming out of the side of the hood/bonnet. After which a message came on the dash saying "Check Coolant".

I stopped the car, and the fumes were all over. Popped the hood open and saw lime green coolant all over the engine bay and a disconnect coolant hose. I plugged it back and waited till the fumes were much reduced then drove it to my office (a distance of 1 block.) The car stayed parked in front of my office for about 2+ hours before I attempted to drive it to a car parts store to get a replacement coolant which I got and filled up the coolant reservoir.

After the fill up, I noticed that the "Check Coolant Level" still came on when I stopped over at Sams Club. Also I noticed that the Heater would blow hot for a few minutes then switch to cold alternatively. This went on for the entire time I drove the car from Sams club (after adding the coolant) to my house.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong ?
What hose popped off? Apparently when a quick disconnect hose pops off it requires replacement as it's going to keep failing...

You might have air in your lines too, pump the hose coming out of the rad a few times with the cap off, you should see the coolant level indicator sink down after the bubble is released.


Also never ever drive your car when you're having a cooling failure... Pull of and repair, or get it towed, you can easily ruin the engine if the cooling system isn't functioning properly.
Thanks for the quick response Brad.

The hose in the image below was the one that popped off and the area I circled in red is the section the came off. Forgive my ignorance but how do I pump the hose coming from the radiator?

 

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Discussion Starter #5
darrinturner said:
a) What type of coolant did you use?
b) Did you get all bubbles out of the system?

If you used anything other than the LR coolant, you are sure to have more failure down the road, and judging by your photo your Rover is an 03-04 which means that road is not very long.

You should drain your system and refill with the correct coolant after you replace all the hoses. Once you refill, drive it for a little while running the heater on full. Then top it off again and repeat.

Hope this helps
Thanks Darrin for responding. It is an 2003 and I rushed off to Advanced Auto Parts to get an antifreeze/coolant. When they checked for the one recommended for the Range Rover, they said to buy the Prestone Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant that can be added to any color antifreeze. Interestingly enough it turned out to be of identical color as the one that leaked out of the car.

Also from the picture in my post above, do you or anyone else know the specific part number for that hose so I can order it from British parts of Utah?

As per removing bubbles, I don't know how to go about doing that.
 

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maverixz said:
brad s1 said:
maverixz said:
Hello Gents and happy new year.

I headed out to my office this afternoon and after about 20 minutes of driving with one stop, I saw that my rear window was foggy and thought that was odd, so I checked again and then noticed white fumes coming out of the side of the hood/bonnet. After which a message came on the dash saying "Check Coolant".

I stopped the car, and the fumes were all over. Popped the hood open and saw lime green coolant all over the engine bay and a disconnect coolant hose. I plugged it back and waited till the fumes were much reduced then drove it to my office (a distance of 1 block.) The car stayed parked in front of my office for about 2+ hours before I attempted to drive it to a car parts store to get a replacement coolant which I got and filled up the coolant reservoir.

After the fill up, I noticed that the "Check Coolant Level" still came on when I stopped over at Sams Club. Also I noticed that the Heater would blow hot for a few minutes then switch to cold alternatively. This went on for the entire time I drove the car from Sams club (after adding the coolant) to my house.

Any ideas as to what might be wrong ?
What hose popped off? Apparently when a quick disconnect hose pops off it requires replacement as it's going to keep failing...

You might have air in your lines too, pump the hose coming out of the rad a few times with the cap off, you should see the coolant level indicator sink down after the bubble is released.


Also never ever drive your car when you're having a cooling failure... Pull of and repair, or get it towed, you can easily ruin the engine if the cooling system isn't functioning properly.
Thanks for the quick response Brad.

The hose in the image below was the one that popped off and the area I circled in red is the section the came off. Forgive my ignorance but how do I pump the hose coming from the radiator?

The hose in question, squeeze it several times while the cap is off the expansion tank, that "should," drive bubbles out.

darrinturner said:
a) What type of coolant did you use?
b) Did you get all bubbles out of the system?

If you used anything other than the LR coolant, you are sure to have more failure down the road, and judging by your photo your Rover is an 03-04 which means that road is not very long.

You should drain your system and refill with the correct coolant after you replace all the hoses. Once you refill, drive it for a little while running the heater on full. Then top it off again and repeat.

Hope this helps
I filled with prestone, which I've used in ever rover I've owned for quite some time... What is the logic in spending the extra money on land rover coolant? I'm sure there is a reason, I just don't know it. Is there anyone NOT using the suggested land rover coolant who hasn't had issues?
 

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That's the same place mine failed at some time ago, but not too long after my indy service shop flushed & filled my coolant w/ Peak. Actually my expansion tank began leaking slightly first, then the hose blew.

The gooseneck that your hose slipped off of is a plastic piece that is actually part of the hose assembly. The lip on the gooseneck must've broken (as did mine). I'd certainly recommend that you also take this chance to replace the lower hose assembly too, as it's just as old an worn as the one that just failed. AND I also strongly recommend that you use only the BMW coolant and distilled water when you refill the system (personal preference). You don't have to do anything too exotic to get the air out of the system. The RAVE manual covers coolant refill. I believe if you search the forum, you'll find how to do this.

The part number for the upper hose assembly is PCH001110. The part number for the lower hose assy is PCH001211.
If you want to fix it soon, the price from the dealership isn't too much more than the ones you have to pay (and wait) for shipping.

My indy shop still swears that the coolant they use is fully compatible with the system. But he also understands that when working on my Rover, I only want the BMW coolant & distilled water put in it. We agree to disagree.
 

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Also, where the hose came off of the gooseneck should be permanantly attached. It's one assembly.
Brad may be right on the brand of coolant. But I know that with mine, I began smelling warm coolant from a leak AFTER the service shop replaced my stock coolant with the aftermarket coolant. Maybe it doesn't matter. But I got the OEM BMW coolant from the BMW dealership for $27 a gallon vice the $72 a gallon that the LR dealership wanted.
I may be wasting the extra $15 a gallon (delta from Prestone coolant), but I feel a little better.

But no matter what coolant you use, use distilled water (vice tap water) to mix it with.
 

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03rangiemark said:
Also, where the hose came off of the gooseneck should be permanantly attached. It's one assembly.
Brad may be right on the brand of coolant. But I know that with mine, I began smelling warm coolant from a leak AFTER the service shop replaced my stock coolant with the aftermarket coolant. Maybe it doesn't matter. But I got the OEM BMW coolant from the BMW dealership for $27 a gallon vice the $72 a gallon that the LR dealership wanted.
I may be wasting the extra $15 a gallon (delta from Prestone coolant), but I feel a little better.

But no matter what coolant you use, use distilled water (vice tap water) to mix it with.
I honestly don't know much about the chemistry of coolant, I'm sure some are more mild than others, each has different expansion properties etc... I've been using prestone forever, on everything I've owned. Prestone is advertised as compatible with any car, and capable of mixing with any coolant (although I never mix it)

What makes the BMW coolant better? I'm sure it is, I'm just ignorant on the subject.
 

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There are so many things that people should know about mixing coolants AND oils.
There are ethelene glycol, propylene glycol, organic acids, PolyAlphaOlephin (PAO)...
And it's not only the chemical reactions of mixing coolants, but chemical reactions of the coolant types to the materials of the cooling system that they contact. One story (from BMW service shop) is that the florescent additive in the orange, green or yellow coolants have an adverse effect on the plastics used in the BMW cooling systems.

Synthetic oils shouldn't be mixed either. Mixing Mobil-1 & Castrol Syntec would promote sludge.

Here's an excerp from wikepedia on coolants...

..."DEX-COOL specifically has caused controversy. Litigation has linked it with intake manifold gasket failures in GM's 3.1L and 3.4L engines, and with other failures in 3.8L & 4.3L engines. Class action lawsuits were registered in several states, and in Canada,[7] to address some of these claims. The first of these to reach a decision was in Missouri where a settlement was announced early in December, 2007.[8] Late in March 2008, GM agreed to compensate complainants in the remaining 49 states.[9]
There are rumors that mixing DEX-COOL with standard green (non-OAT) coolant causes a chemical reaction that produces sludge in the cooling system"...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gentlemen,

I highly appreciate all of your various feedback on my issue. Due to the very chilly cold and my busy business schedule my RR has been parked in the garage and relieved of driving duties until the hoses are replaced.
 

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As it has been said, where your hose came apart is a failure of the plastic junction of the hose and fitting. When mine came apart I was able to do a temp fix that got me home (just only). When I tried to tighten the clamp (a screw type) that I had used to make the temp fix caused the plastic fitting to fail completely .

Mark.
 
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hose : http://www.xtremerovers.com/land-rover-pch001110-radiator-upper-hose-p-60.html

My dentist told me to floss once a day : I do so and did not question it

I am not sure why or why not use anything other than the recommended coolant, I just choose to do whats recommended and have less to worry about when I am driving across the states :)

I recommend that if you replace the upper hose, that you also replace the lower hose and bleed the system and refill.
 

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Hose blew on my 05 today, put a v-band clamp on it and moved on.

I'm a dealer and I've owned over a dozen Rovers now, I've had this issue on 4 of them. The lower hose on 1. Coolant exp tank on 1. All from 03-05, never had coolant issues with 06+
 
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Hey that's great news. Easy job eh?

Thanks for picking Xtreme Rovers for your parts
 

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darrinturner said:
I recommend that if you replace the upper hose, that you also replace the lower hose and bleed the system and refill.
alright, if you read my other thread on how i hate my rover, you'd know the dealer just on monday told me i needed to give him $600+ to replace my hose. well i'll be damned of the top hose didn't blow apart at the same spot as everyone else this morning on the way to work. pulled over, got a co-worker to take me to wally world and got a hose clamp and some h2o, got it all put back together, all good, right? at lunch went to see an indy mech a friend recommended, he looked at things, said repair looked good, but should prob get a new hose soon since the plastic might fail (btw, unlike others the plastic piece was just fine, the clamp just blew off). went back to work, called around, carquest said they'll have me new top and lower hose on monday. great! and between the 2, $50 less than the dealer's parts cost. woot! (side note, i know water isn't coolant, but i'll fix that issue when i get the new hose since i have to take it back apart anyways)

then driving home after work in the pouring rain, and heavy traffic, i hear the now familiar sound of the belt squealing, then the check coolant message came on. UGH!!! pulled over, hose popped off again (did i mention it was pouring rain?) but gotta go pick up my child, so can't wait for rain to stop. got hose clamped back on, got a gallon of water from a hose bibb on the closest building, and on my way again. it only took about half the gallon so i thought maybe not much leaked out this time. 1/4 mile down the road the low coolant msg again, and now the temp is rising. pull into a publix parking lot (grocery store) and call my friend who is really good with cars. hose still on. his theory is a steam pocket hit the temp sensor and that's why its yelling at me now. he also thinks that it was prob a steam pocket that blew the hose off the 2nd time. i remember that the top of the expansion tank has a bleeder nut (searched the form for "bleeder", no dice) from my review of Rave earlier. he said open the bleeder, go into publix buy a few gallons of water, fill it up and let it bleed.

did that. LOTS of steam came out, then finally water. took like 2+ gallons of water. back on the road again. a mile later the low coolant msg AGAIN! UGH (there is a reason i hate this car - it hates me back!) pull into a gas station under the canopy out of the rain, finally, and pop the hood. hose still good. try to open the exp tank lid - no good, coolant (or pure water by now) tries to bubble out, so screw it back down and open bleeder with the engine running (helps that i had to buy a screwdriver to install the clamp) and steam comes out. for like 15 straight minutes. my friend says that i need to get all of the air out, but i need to get my child (its now 2 and a half hours after i left work for a 15 min drive home). i tighten it back down, cross my fingers, and drive. All good! Pfewf!!!

(sorry, that was much longer than i thought it would be)

My question is... when changing the coolant (or it decides to change itself like in mine, and the OP's, case) what is the proper procedure for refilling it, and properly bleeding it to get the air all out, so that this doesn't happen again? Do you fill with the engine running, or off. Bleed with the engine running or off? when the thermostat is closed, how will the coolant fill all of the voids? this sort of step by step i can't find (even in Rave, it just said fill until bleeder pours out coolant, cap, fill exp tank, if i recall correctly).

thanks for your expertise :)

scott
 

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ok, found the rave procedure. still, maybe because it was because my engine was hot that i had the problems i did. i guess keeping coolant to the top of the tank as its filled will push it thru the entire system, and any air will get pushed to the bleeder (isn't the bleeder fed from the top of the radiator, not the top of the engine?) any comments?

here it is for your use:

Refill
1. Close radiator drain tap and remove tube.
2. Using a new sealing washer, fit cylinder block
drain plug and tighten to 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft).
3. Connect battery earth lead.
4. Connect exhaust extractor to tail pipes.
5. Remove bleed screw from expansion tank.
6. Fill cooling system, keeping coolant to neck of
expansion tank until a steady stream of coolant
is emitted from bleed screw hole. Fit and tighten
bleed screw.
7. Fit coolant expansion tank cap.
8. Run engine until normal operating temperature
is reached.
9. Switch off engine and allow to cool.
10. Check for leaks and fill expansion tank to 'MAX'
mark.
11. Clean coolant from body and surrounding area.
12. Fit undertray.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
darrinturner said:
Hey that's great news. Easy job eh?

Thanks for picking Xtreme Rovers for your parts
My pleasure and I actually had an indy do it for me because I'm too lazy to play at being mechanical. :)
 
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