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Hello! This is my first post and I am considering entering the world of Range Rover ownership. Below are all the details. I test drove it tonight, and I'll be picking it up tomorrow morning if everything goes through. It'll most likely be my wife's daily driver and for random use in the mountains.

I'm looking to get some opinions on whether or not this is an okay buy, a good deal, or a crazy steal that I need to scoop up asap. I'm also looking to get some advice on what could cause the codes described below and any thoughts on typical things that could need replacing or that are prone to wearing out on these. It was sitting in a barn for a long time before the current owner bought it about 9 months ago and is now selling it to pay bills.

- It's a 1995 Range Rover SE for $800
- It has only 45k original miles - I checked the car fax, which shows the most recent mileage logged as 43k in 2015
- The interior was sharp and the seats were in good condition
- The previous owner said he replaced the airbag suspension with coils
- There was a message for "Gearbox Fault" and "Airbag Fault" on the dash - any idea what this means and how complex it could be? The previous owner said he "disconnected the gearbox" and pointed to a box in the back driverside part of the engine bay, but disconnecting it doesn't seem right to me?
- The under was in great shape - no obvious leaks or oil on the diffs that I could see. Original black coating on everything was pristine
- It's originally white, but the guy who owns it now dumped gray plastidip on it so that'll be fun to peel off
- It's a salvage title, which was issued in 1997 with 37k and no reason as to why

Here's some pics from the ad because I forgot to take any others tonight:


E38368CF-F9F6-4961-A65E-A617010F3F6B-6955-00000473D6A84543.JPEG

1FCA7AB4-64C9-4BC3-83C7-BEFBB5967507-6955-00000473DAD800D7.JPEG
 

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Gearbox fault will always come up if the battery voltage is low, so will Airbag fault too at times although an airbag fault would normally show as SRS fault and the SRS light would be lit on the dash. Are you sure it wasn't EAS Fault, which would be because it has been castrated and put on coils. A new set of air springs will cure that and make it into a P38 again. As it's been standing for a long time, treat the engine to a coolant flush and new waterpump and flush the brake fluid for starters.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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9 times out of 10, the srs ( airbag light) is connection under the front seat needs a clean, or steering wheel connector ring has gone, easy things to do, gearbox fault, as mentioned, probably a low battery.
45k is low mileage, so if the engines had any maintenance you should have a good engine.
what concerns me is what your going to find, if / when you get the grey plasidip off.
if the air system is still in the car, get it back up and running, smooth ride, better handling.
 

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Okay, thanks for all the info! I did some reading last night about limp mode as well. Could it go into limp mode because of the gearbox fault? I’ve never driven a Range Rover before but it seemed very sluggish for a V8.

It may have been EAS fault, but I’m pretty sure it was Airbag Fault, Gearbox fault, and one other message about a door not being properly closed.
 

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If it was saying a door wasn't properly closed when it was, that's microswitches in one of the door latches. Sort than now before it locks you out and immobilises itself. SRS fault caused by the connector under the seat is only on 99 and later, earlier cars didn't have side airbags so no connector under the seat. You'll know if it is in limp mode as it will only use one gear (3rd or 4th) rather than changing up through the gears, there is no limp mode on the engine. Gearbox fault due to low battery voltage won't cause limp mode. It may be a V8 but weighs almost 2.5 tonnes so it never will be quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the reply Richard. Is SRS fault different from Airbag fault? I’m pretty certain it just said “Airbag fault”. And any idea what could cause that in the 95? Could it be related to the door ajar issue?

Also, any thoughts on whether or not $800 makes this a good buy for what it is?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And as for the limp mode, it did take a very long time to get up to about 55mph. If it is in
limp mode, what would be the indicator and/or fix?
 

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Having just checked the owners manual, an SRS fault does come up on the message centre as Airbag Fault. You'd need to read the faults with a dedicated P38 diagnostic to see what the fault is though. You could try dropping the panel under the steering column and unplugging and cleaning the SRS connector that lives under there (all SRS wiring is in bright yellow sheathing), it worked for me on a 96. Nothing to do with the door ajar message, that means a door isn't closed properly of the latch microswitch has failed.

As for price, something is only worth what someone is prepared to pay for it but $800 is around £600 in my money. For a complete car that would be a good price even if it was going to be used for spares, for one that is running and needs a little attention to get it back as it should be, it's very cheap. They do seem to go for higher prices in the US that they do over here (I'm in the UK) so it sounds like you've got yourself a bargain. Sort out the niggles, find a deep hole to throw the coils into and get it back on air and you should have a decent basis for a bit of cosmetics to get it back as it should be.
 

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If the gearbox is in limp mode, the dash will not show what gear you are in. It should show it next to the odometer. Don't forget that if it has been standing you could have binding brakes too which would take the edge of the performance. Try putting it in Sport mode, if that isn't working it is in limp mode.
 

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If it helps the front brush guard you can easily sell for $300. Low miles is good but I’m sure the plastics will need some care on the inside. I’d put the original Dunlop air-springs back in for sure. About $60 each and a complete EAS O ring rebuild kit will run $65. A long day in the garage and you can have her back on air. Be sure to buy new spring clips and retaining clips for the airsprings. If the weather and time has gotten to the fuse box a relays for $300 you can get a new one of those. Put your location in your signature after you buy it and then other local ROAR! :) owners can help out as well
 

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For $800 its not much of a risk. Buy it, get a good, heavy duty battery rated for a RR and start there. Good chance most of the faults will be gone. Flush cooling and brakes. Get some fresh gas in it. Then start changing out the various oil reservoirs. Worry about the suspension later when all faults are gone and its running ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you everyone for all of the advice! I decided to go for it. It drove alright on the way home, but definitely seemed to be in limp mode - real slow out of a stop, no light next to the speedometer, and sport mode wouldn’t engage. Although sport mode did engage when it was in the garage before I left the seller. The codes on the dash were Airbag fault, Bonnet open, and door open, and the SRS light was on. The Gearbox fault was not on when I drove it home.

My biggest priorities now are getting it out of limp mode (suggestions would be great), and getting the Airbag fault fixed.
 

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Congratulations. Check and see if the button on the steering wheel work to
changebyhe radio mode and volume and set and release the cruise control. If the buttons don’t work your clock spring is worn out. I’d get a new one. This should clear up your airbag fault. If not it has a few different sensor plugs. Try cleaning under the drivers seat first.
Others will have to chime in on the limp mode.
 

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Welcome to the club ;-)
Soon You will know more about cars than You ever imagined is possible ;-)
Get Yourself a copy of Rave (see FAQ section for downloads) and especially the Electric(k)al trouble shooting manuals ...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey ColoradoCrow, I'm also in CO Springs! I'll check out your tips to take care of the airbag fault. Any recommendations for good shops in town if I ever need to take it in?

Thanks kcr! My wife is pretty excited about it since it'll eventually be her DD. I'll definitely take a look at Rave for troubleshooting.

Honestly thanks to everyone that's helped so far - it's always nice to see a forum ready and willing to help out new guys like me.
 

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Held off responding as others on the forum way more in the kno than me but bas d in the ignition k the price was good engine gearbox you’re nearly at break even. Errors smack of a battery I’d personally shell out on a new vehicle no see which any faults disappear then work through it putting her back on air springs will give you renew d vigour to crack on good luck
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Tell your wife if she doesn't want it I'll have it. 800 USD is a gift. From range rover heaven.
Say hello from me, it is a great car to fix for women as they require electronic knowledge rather than muscle. your wife's birthday gift should be a nanocom


More seriously, mine had no airbags as many others in France. They are fine without, but often it is just a green contact.
Here in Costa Rica they all seem to have air bags but many go without air springs.

Those are true joy, really worth the trouble. After so little use they much have suffered a bit from heat , check for fine cracks and check all connections to the valve block.
Hey ColoradoCrow, I'm also in CO Springs! I'll check out your tips to take care of the airbag fault. Any recommendations for good shops in town if I ever need to take it in?

Thanks kcr! My wife is pretty excited about it since it'll eventually be her DD. I'll definitely take a look at Rave for troubleshooting.

Honestly thanks to everyone that's helped so far - it's always nice to see a forum ready and willing to help out new guys like me.
Enviado desde mi SM-A720F mediante Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks annette!

Those are true joy, really worth the trouble. After so little use they much have suffered a bit from heat , check for fine cracks and check all connections to the valve block.
I believe the airbag fault is for the SRS airbags, but I haven't figured it out for sure. It also has had the air suspension ripped out of it and coils put in instead. What's the hype with the air suspension? I've never driven a car with it so I wouldn't know the difference. The old Jeep I built up in high school had coils in the front and leaf springs in the back - it was a rough ride, but it was an old Jeep. Converting it back to air might be something on our list of to do's eventually, but for now we just want to get it road worthy.

I attempted to do a battery check tonight based on the advice in the electrical sticky. I started by putting the key in and turning it but not turning the car on. Then I turned on the headlights, fog lights, and cranked the heat up all the way. The dash then said "ignition failure" or something like that and then the accessories powered down after about 20 seconds. I took the key out, waited a few moments and took the voltage. It read at 11.6V . I tried it again and the same thing happened - the voltage read at 8.6V this time. The car wouldn't start after this, and when I tried to jump it the starter just clicked slowly and it didn't turn over.

I was hoping to get it started to check the alternator as well, but it seems like the battery is clearly drained. The previous owner put a brand new Delco battery in a few months ago, but he left the headlights on the night before I picked it up and it got drained and had to be jumped when I picked it up. I don't have a battery charger, but I'm not sure it would help. Thoughts on a new battery and what brands/specs are suitable for a p38?

I also started looking through more of the electrical stuff - seems to be what is causing most of my issues. The fuse box in the engine bay was missing a few fuses in various spots and so was the one under the seat. So those will be replaced as soon as I can make a trip to the auto parts store.

We also started peeling away at all the gray plastidip. The back of the car was in good shape with the original white paint underneath. The hood and some other parts of the body that we've gotten to so far are still in decent shape (no rust) but it seems like someone had a bad day with a sander on the paint job. The clear coat is missing in spots and there are also random spots that have silver spray paint on them. Our theory is that the previous owner attempted to sand down the flaky clear coat with something crazy like 80 grit sandpaper, tried to paint some spots silver, and then just decided to dump plastidip over the whole thing. It's not the biggest deal in the world, but there's some bare metal showing in spots that I'll at least need to get some primer onto before it starts to rust.

IMG_9982.JPG
 

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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Pitt about the coil springs, i loved them in my p38 and i always like to adapt the height for cliente in fonction of tyre size use etc.

Like I said I would not waste too much grey matter on the SRS, mine had no problems without nor any other that didn't have them factory fitted.

Your battery can be any good brand 100AH minimum, invested polarity. Che k your alternator when you get it started.

With a battery lower than 11.8 it will never start.
Download the electrical.manual, print it out and let your wife start with the chapter starting and charging. You will need it.



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From the Interstate Battery page, Group Size 31A, 660 CCA, 160 [email protected] amps. I've been using Interstate for years and they last pretty good. Cost almost $150. The Delco is probably not up to the job, P38 take a serious battery. Make sure you have the radio code, you will have to enter it after cutting power. Don't believe any code or error message until the battery is replaced. If the strange paint treatment is on the hood only, you could probably locate a used hood for much less than spraying it. White is fairly common and shouldn't be tough to match.


 
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