RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done a conversation from fuel injection to carb? I did, I put on an Edelbrock performance carb and intake and removed the stock fuel injection system. Looking to talk to others who have done this. And if anyone wants cheap fuel injection parts, let me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Although my `85 originally was carb, it had an Eldlebrock conversion when I bought it. Always ran rich, even with jet changes (came with Holley 600, then went to QuickFuel 450 and finally Holley 390), done the cfm formula (can find it on any carb manufacturer's site)....only need approx 254 cfm, due to the small displacement and low hp. Besides, I`m not cranking it up to 8000 rpm anyway. Converted to the newer ignition module distributor too. Seems to be running alot better, have checked plugs and exhaust temps (handle held temp gun), no "lean" conditions. Don't have any experience with trans cables, since mine has the LT77.

With a 2 bbl adapter, installed a cheap 300 cfm 2100cc carb (went cheap incase things didn't work out), hood clearance is really tight, seriously considering an install of an XFI type 2 bbl being install issues have been sorted....now to peddle the two 4 bbls that I no longer need....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
366 Posts
Not sure what is your reason to convert, but I converted a 3.5 Carb to Throttle Body Injection (basically replaced the carbs with an 'electronic carb'). It took a while to get it to work right, mainly because I started with using too big a size, now using the smaller 2 barrel Holley Sniper 2300 and it is running very well indeed!

Holley now makes the matching HAL distributor (for the Buick 215) as well so you can get fully integrated timing, which is nice. Tuning took me a while, but I have it pretty much nailed down now.

Maybe you want to go carb to avoid electronics. In any case I would suggest you look to match your carb to your actual engine HP. As IchWill I second going for a 2 barrel instead of a 4 barrel. More is not better at all. The 4 barrel will be struggling with the low air flow at idle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
I would also like to do this on my '88, mainly because there is less to fail as far as sensors and whatnot. Any leads on the parts I'd need? Or better yet a list? (Obviously intake and carb, but specific models and anything else needed would be appreciated.)

Also, for the time being, I might be interested is some of the stuff you pulled off. I have a rough/unreliable idle so we can start with parts that might help there.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
353 Posts
I would also like to do this on my '88, mainly because there is less to fail as far as sensors and whatnot. Any leads on the parts I'd need? Or better yet a list? (Obviously intake and carb, but specific models and anything else needed would be appreciated.)

Also, for the time being, I might be interested is some of the stuff you pulled off. I have a rough/unreliable idle so we can start with parts that might help there.

Carb, manifold (215 or Edelbrock), thermostat housing and linkage including kickdown cable. Also a fuel pump

Check some basic stuff on your current setup before jumping to a carb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
sorry for being AWAL on this thead, was working out of town. good info on the distributor. i was looking to change over to an HEI or DUI set up once i got the set up dialed in ptretty tight. the Rover is running good, i prefer a simple card set up on an older vehicle. am old school at heart, plus i like a challenge on a mod. i'll list the stuff i used to swap it over from EFI it carb this weekend. i was lucky a buddy came to visit and help me, he's a real mechanic, unlike myself. lol
if it was an old 84-85 toyota truck with a 22R engine, well i've had 7 of those and rebuild 4 of those engines.
i'll post picks of the parts i'm selling, not looking to get rich, just helping out other Rover owner who could use them. **** parts are expensive enough new. i even rebuild the seat controllers because i didn't want to drop a wad of cash on new ones for a project fun truck.
thanks again guys for the input and stay safe out there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I would also like to do this on my '88, mainly because there is less to fail as far as sensors and whatnot. Any leads on the parts I'd need? Or better yet a list? (Obviously intake and carb, but specific models and anything else needed would be appreciated.)

Also, for the time being, I might be interested is some of the stuff you pulled off. I have a rough/unreliable idle so we can start with parts that might help there.
here is where i started
the engine is really a Buick 215 V8 3.5L
put on an Edlebrock 2198 intake and 1801 carb
there are those fuel injection carbs out there that i think would of been fun to try out, but i was on somewhat of a budget. (it's just a project vehicle)
you are going to need a fuel regulator to knock down the OEM fuel pump pressure, others may have way better ways to do this than i did. and the throttle and transmission mount for the linkage. i got mine on amazon i think, many are out there and you can mod up the rest. you remove a ton of harness wiring after all is said and done. the owner before me F'd up alot of wiring so i'm fixing old problems with some new little ones. i removed the AC, the windows work so I'm good, it has great heating and thats the only must up here in Montana.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Very nice! I am thinking I must do this to my 88. Do you not have a coolant overflow reservoir? Could you remove the computer altogether after this or do lights and such go through it? I am debating an AC delete even down here in NM... I would only attempt that after cutting the top off, though. Also I assume no more cruise control?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If someone can find one of these trucks with working cruise control I’ll give them an online participation trophy.
the cruise control was working before i did the carb swap. think all that is hooked into the throttle and intake assembly stuff. sorry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Very nice! I am thinking I must do this to my 88. Do you not have a coolant overflow reservoir? Could you remove the computer altogether after this or do lights and such go through it? I am debating an AC delete even down here in NM... I would only attempt that after cutting the top off, though. Also I assume no more cruise control?
still have the coolant reseroir in use. the computer under the passenger seat is mostly not used, BUT yes some of the lighting goes through it. i know for sure that when i unplug it the headlights don't work. somewhere down the road i am going to bipass that too. going to mod on some of the new LED 7" lights. and the cruise control no longer works. and that can be rough in a state with the speed limit at 80 mph.
i started this whole mess just wanting to clean the engine. after i bought it i found it to be packed with gunk and **** in the valve covers. so i rebuilt it all, short of doing rings, pistols and crank. took years because i work on the road 4-5 days a week and i only have a single car garage. getting use to the automative shift is different for my, i always have manual shift trucks. but after the carb swap i've learned how to get the transmission to shift sooner, its a high rev'n thing for sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Where is the coolant res? It doesn't seem to be in its home in your pic... I see the windshield washer res. My res is right behind(ish) that on the firewall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Where is the coolant res? It doesn't seem to be in its home in your pic... I see the windshield washer res. My res is right behind(ish) that on the firewall.
To be clear these dorky things seem to have two... the dumb metal one by the battery and then an overflow on the firewall. Maybe yours has been removed? Shoud be a couple holes on that plastic thing by the transmission dipstick if so. That's where mine was. Or was mine aftermarket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Nevermind. Other pic shows yours just has the metal one. Someone added one to mine, maybe? It melted anyway and I bought a replacement generic that I guess I can return now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
To be clear these dorky things seem to have two... the dumb metal one by the battery and then an overflow on the firewall. Maybe yours has been removed? Shoud be a couple holes on that plastic thing by the transmission dipstick if so. That's where mine was. Or was mine aftermarket?
mine is the metal one behind Battery, then there was the charcoal filter for fuel system behind that (I removed that). you may of had an aftermarket thing on there. I didn't see a second in the manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
I'd have to dig through my paperwork in the garage to find out. It's a Holley I got from Summit Racing. I need to increase the return fuel line size to get the last 2 PSI off the feed to get the 6-7 PSI I want.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
4 Posts
I'm thinking of going with the Edlebrock intake as I am on Propane.
Any pics of how you did Throttle and Trans kick down ?
RPI has them but are pricey
287075
287076
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I'm thinking of going with the Edlebrock intake as I am on Propane.
Any pics of how you did Throttle and Trans kick down ?
RPI has them but are pricey View attachment 287075 View attachment 287076
if you look earlier in this post i put a couple pix of the engine on here. i bought the throttle mount on Amazon.
Stain Aluminum Throttle Cable Bracket for 4150 Style Series Carburetor
then you need to mod something to link the throttle cable to the carb to the kick down.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top