RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
6 months ago I began replacing my 1990 transmission from my 93 donor. It took so long due to throwing out my back. She's now mostly assembled but I've somehow created some new issues:

1. The "bell" that "dings" at startup turns into a solid buzz on the 3rd or 4th ding which doesn't stop and the dash's ABS light stays on solid. Since no ABS technology is present at the transmission and or transfer case, I assume that I may have screwed up an electrical line somehow. I've checked the bell housing to make sure I didn't pinch a wire when bolting her up to the block. I've also check wires in the bay near the pump and all looks well. She has fluid and there was no problem prior to my transmission swap. Also should mention I installed a new pressure switch and accumulator 12 moths back without issue so I think that somehow I'm looking at and electrical issue. Perhaps when tilting the engine back to unbolt the bad transmission something was damaged but I don't see any sign of electrical damage.

Appreciate all suggestions. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
Maybe you pinched a wire putting the tunnel back together
All the wireing for the transmission
And speed transducer go to a plug behind the washer resavor
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
6 months ago I began replacing my 1990 transmission from my 93 donor. It took so long due to throwing out my back. She's now mostly assembled but I've somehow created some new issues:

1. The "bell" that "dings" at startup turns into a solid buzz on the 3rd or 4th ding which doesn't stop and the dash's ABS light stays on solid. Since no ABS technology is present at the transmission and or transfer case, I assume that I may have screwed up an electrical line somehow. I've checked the bell housing to make sure I didn't pinch a wire when bolting her up to the block. I've also check wires in the bay near the pump and all looks well. She has fluid and there was no problem prior to my transmission swap. Also should mention I installed a new pressure switch and accumulator 12 moths back without issue so I think that somehow I'm looking at and electrical issue. Perhaps when tilting the engine back to unbolt the bad transmission something was damaged but I don't see any sign of electrical damage.

Appreciate all suggestions. Thanks.
your yellow abs light remains on until vehicle moves to at least 7mph, it is a normal self test procedure at which time it will shall extinguish until the next start cycle.
your "bell" may be a disconnected transfer case neutral signal switch or your transfer case lever may not be fully engaged in gear.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
your yellow abs light remains on until vehicle moves to at least 7mph, it is a normal self test procedure at which time it will shall extinguish until the next start cycle.
your "bell" may be a disconnected transfer case neutral signal switch or your transfer case lever may not be fully engaged in gear.
Please explain "bell may be a disconnected transfer case neutral signal or transfer case lever may not be fully engaged in gear". As far as I can tell, the Classic doesn't feature any relation between ABS and the transfer case. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
My BAD.... I overlooked this due to no leads on the loom for this switch. Loom features 3 connections but not a 4th for this switch. The 10 million dollar question is where to find this lead wire or where does that lead ultimately connect. Spent 3 hrs looking for this wire to no avail. Appreciate any info. Thanks. LT230view.jpg
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
My BAD.... I overlooked this due to no leads on the loom for this switch. Loom features 3 connections but not a 4th for this switch. The 10 million dollar question is where to find this lead wire or where does that lead ultimately connect. Spent 3 hrs looking for this wire to no avail. Appreciate any info. Thanks. View attachment 253137


the plot only thickens as you neglected to mention you had upgraded to an lt230-s from a bw.
the switch you have highlighted does not have a connector on a classic as the classic is not equipped with diff lock indicator.

I forget which but one of the connectors on the high low harness is grounded in order to extinguish your sound. as I mentioned before, the system thinks the high low lever is in neutral.

ABS light will not go out until you drive the vehicle over 7 mph, ABS does not have a relation with transfer case thus disregard until you drive the vehicle, at which time it shall extinguish.
ABS info is in the owners manual and the rave.
 

·
Registered
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
87 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
the plot only thickens as you neglected to mention you had upgraded to an lt230-s from a bw.
the switch you have highlighted does not have a connector on a classic as the classic is not equipped with diff lock indicator.

I forget which but one of the connectors on the high low harness is grounded in order to extinguish your sound. as I mentioned before, the system thinks the high low lever is in neutral.

ABS light will not go out until you drive the vehicle over 7 mph, ABS does not have a relation with transfer case thus disregard until you drive the vehicle, at which time it shall extinguish.
ABS info is in the owners manual and the rave.
Yes, Lt230 installed. BW chain had stretched out sloppily. I'll stop looking for that lt230 neutral switch connector. So the high low harness gets grounded? How? Regarding the ABS light, I've test drove her doing 45 mph and the ABS never extinguished.

Additionally, there's a couple of other issues. I installed the tranny and then attempted to slide on the transfer case but the TC never seated completely leaving a little less than a 1/2 inch gap (see pic). That prohibited the installation of the H/L shifter which bolts on at the Governor Housing leaving the shifter linkage on the LT230 unsecured. Figured I'd drive it to a shop and have em help me mate them up. Also not sure how or where to secure the item in my 2nd attached photo.

Appreciate any information. Thanks.
0216181435.jpg 0216181435a.jpg
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
1,413 Posts
Yes, Lt230 installed. BW chain had stretched out sloppily. I'll stop looking for that lt230 neutral switch connector. So the high low harness gets grounded? How? Regarding the ABS light, I've test drove her doing 45 mph and the ABS never extinguished.

Additionally, there's a couple of other issues. I installed the tranny and then attempted to slide on the transfer case but the TC never seated completely leaving a little less than a 1/2 inch gap (see pic). That prohibited the installation of the H/L shifter which bolts on at the Governor Housing leaving the shifter linkage on the LT230 unsecured. Figured I'd drive it to a shop and have em help me mate them up. Also not sure how or where to secure the item in my 2nd attached photo.

Appreciate any information. Thanks.
View attachment 253321 View attachment 253329

whoa, first and foremost that gap cannot exist. you will never get proper sealing of the transfer case seal on the input shaft, this opens the door to continuous oil leaks.
the shaft for the BW is longer and it touches the rear cover of the input shaft, thus you need to replace it with the shaft out of the zf 22 mated to an lt230 this shaft is shorter.

at the same time you need the front drive shaft mated to the lt230 the front drive shaft mated to the bw is too long.
you don't show pictures of the parking brake but again they are different thus the lt230 is what is needed.
so are the mounts.
to replace this shaft the transfer case must come out and the center bolt to the shaft is removed, then it slides out.

on a related note the classic does not have a provision or a lighted indicator for t case lock, some guys wire on indicator, others have used an unused circuit in the cluster, little more involved.

as far as abs diagnosis, the system is quite robust and often the reason for a light staying on with out failure of the abs pump will be wheel sensor gap. If the pump fails, it will cease to buzz upon ignition on and the brake pedal will be very stiff. further more, the vehicle will be difficult to stop.

back to wheel sensor gap, the sensors tend to walk out a smidgen for many reasons including but not limited to loose wheel
bearings.
to reseat you use a wood drift (sometimes the length of a hammer handle or an 18 inch long piece of a broom handle) and tap the sensor until it seats.

to diagnose and clear codes jump black to black pink wire and the abs light will blink each blink is number one thus code 21 will be blink-blink short wait blink.
http://nebula.wsimg.com/d6b950e44ae...205DC3BF9A2BD434D&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

rovers north and the rave have the full procedure in case above link does not work, you could google as well.
also make sure it is not the parking brake light which is staying on.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top