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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, on my quest for a non-loose-pulling-shimmying steering I have found that my steering arm is loose. By loose I mean it will move in both right to left and up to down. I've spent the weekend doing random research with no right-on results found.... I know something has to be replaced and I am hoping that a steering arm will before the whole steering box. What is everyones thoughts? While I have your attention, there is also a random whine coming from the right front when steering slightly that direction, it goes away when the brakes are used...

I do have Emu springs that provide a 2 inch lift and stock sized tires. All ball joints are tight as they have been recently replaced by me. I have a new damper ordered but it was the wrong one and had to be returned, I'm still waiting for my credit before I re-order.
 

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While I have your attention, there is also a random whine coming from the right front when steering slightly that direction, it goes away when the brakes are used...
Could be the wheel bearing.
 

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For the steering arm to move left and right and up and down it can only be two things.

1.The bolt is not tight on the shaft and the locking tab is not bent over. This is because the shaft has splines which stop it from moving verticaly and laterally.

2. The bearings are so worn that it is beyond repair and requires replacement. If this was the case you would expect to see lots of oil.

My money is on no 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
rufant said:
While I have your attention, there is also a random whine coming from the right front when steering slightly that direction, it goes away when the brakes are used...
Could be the wheel bearing.
I thought about this too, but wouldn't that cause a pull to the faulty side?
custard pie feet said:
For the steering arm to move left and right and up and down it can only be two things.

1.The bolt is not tight on the shaft and the locking tab is not bent over. This is because the shaft has splines which stop it from moving verticaly and laterally.

2. The bearings are so worn that it is beyond repair and requires replacement. If this was the case you would expect to see lots of oil.

My money is on no 1.
Heh, well the answer to both is no as the locking tab is bent over and there is no oil or fluid coming from the box. Though I will have a closer look at the bolt and locking tab in the morning.

There is another new part, the flex steering coupler. I don't how I forgot to add that seeing that it was a pain to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I had the truck on stands to do the tie-rod ends, there wasn't and play in the right front wheel....

Maybe I should just order the things I need so I can have them for this weekend.....so both inner and outer bearings, should I replace the cups to? If it turns out I don't need them I can always return them.
 

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landincoldfire said:
Heh, well the answer to both is no as the locking tab is bent over and there is no oil or fluid coming from the box. Though I will have a closer look at the bolt and locking tab in the morning.
Just because the lock tab is in place does not mean that it is done up tight. I have found that they somehow still work lose. I ended up giving up on the lock tab and started using a large spring washer. I found that one off of a tow ball fits fine.
 

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rufant wrote:
While I have your attention, there is also a random whine coming from the right front when steering slightly that direction, it goes away when the brakes are used...


Could be the wheel bearing.

I thought about this too, but wouldn't that cause a pull to the faulty side?
Not unless it's pretty badly gone. Try steering gently from one side to another as you drive down the road to weight and un weight that wheel and see if the noise changes/goes away as you do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, I got the replacement bearings.

As I was driving it: steering to the right will cause a shimmy and the correction is to bring back center (I am sure that the loose steering arm is amplifying this). I don't hear a constant wine coming from the front right, but it's there when I steer semi-hard to the right and will go away if the steering wheel is brought back to center or brakes pressed.

I plan on getting up early saturday and getting started. This will be my first bearing job and I have plans for dinner that work requires me to attend. I am hoping all of the information I found along with the RAVE this won't be a two day job. Sunday I need to go to New York for a sailing day, won't be long and the weather will be to cold. If this goes well I may even drive my 'hang over' to New York. :?:
 

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The wheel bearings should be fairly easy - I assume you have a socket or box spanner to undo the hub nuts?

As for the shimmy, until the play in the steering arm is sorted, there's no point looking elsewhere. As I'm sure you know, these things shimmy for loads of reasons and with the slightest provocation.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
An update: this morning while waiting for the rain to stop I got my shopping list ready and was off. I had no luck finding a hub nut wrench the size I needed and by the time I talked with a friend who told me to just use channel-locks it's to late to start a project like this. I did have the time to tighten the bolt on the drop arm and even rotated the tires. Took it for a test run and the wobble/shimmy seems even worse now that the arms is tight.

There does seem to a bit of play in the panhard bushing after pulling on the front wheels.
 

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Didn't know my front wheel bearing was gone until it got chewed up. Didn't make much noise, and didn't wobble much. Yeah, that hub nuts a pita sometimes, it's big.
This guy http://www.rovahfarm.com/rangepropshaft.htm is great to buy from, and has the sockets. Had to get the whole nine on my bearing blowout, including the hub. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just had dinner with a friend who has been a mechanic for longer than I've been alive. He is telling me to have a closer look at the ball joints on the steering rod. His thought's that even if they are tight while the rover is on stands, they may have groves and such under weight that will allow play in the steering.

Makes sense I guess, I mean wore bushings and a bad bearing wouldn't cause this wobble. :think:

If I can make it through this, I will stop looking at Craigslist for a VW to replace my rover.
 

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Yeah. You should check the ball joints with the car on the ground.

Don't rule out bushes either. Also tyres/wheel weights might be something to consider.

Maybe combination of the above.
 

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landincoldfire said:
Makes sense I guess, I mean wore bushings and a bad bearing wouldn't cause this wobble. :think:
Don't make that assumption - it doesn't take much for the death wobble to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, this morning when my daughter came home I had her wiggle the steering wheel for me. The only place i am getting movement is in panhard bushings....

Suppose I will replace that first and then see how it improves.
 

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Wouldn't think that the panhards would cause much in the way of wobble, as it's only an axle locator. But definitely narrows it down if it needs doing.
 

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Also if the swivel hub bearings are worn you won't see that by having someone moving the steering wheel, but can really contribute to steering wobble.

Have you adjusted the damper on the steering box?
 

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ikoinu said:
Wouldn't think that the panhards would cause much in the way of wobble, as it's only an axle locator. But definitely narrows it down if it needs doing.
Panhard rod bushes are a very common cause of the death wobbles, it allows the whole front end to move backwards and forwards.
 

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p76rangie said:
ikoinu said:
Wouldn't think that the panhards would cause much in the way of wobble, as it's only an axle locator. But definitely narrows it down if it needs doing.
Panhard rod bushes are a very common cause of the death wobbles, it allows the whole front end to move backwards and forwards.
Agreed, and it makes the front end of the car vague to steer, so I'd start from there if I was you.
 

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Uh-Hum: It's primary purpose is keeping the axle planted under the vehicle, so it doesn't shift left or right. Not backward and forward. Check your trailing arm bushes first. But I'll concede that any worn bushes in the suspension can cause shakes. Swivels, as said, bearings, wheel balance, ball joints, front driveshaft u-joints or misbalance.

"While the purpose of the suspension of an automobile is to allow the wheels to move vertically with respect to the body, it is undesirable to allow them to move forward and backwards, or from side to side. It is this latter movement that the Panhard rod is designed to prevent.[2] It is a simple device, consisting of a rigid bar running sideways in the same plane as the axle, connecting one end of the axle to the car body or chassis on the opposite side of the vehicle. The bar is attached on either end with pivots that permit it to swivel upwards and downwards only, so that the axle is, in turn, allowed to move in the vertical plane only. This does not effectively locate the axle longitudinally, therefore it is usually used in conjunction with trailing arms which locate the axle in the longitudinal direction. This arrangement is not usually used with a leaf spring suspension, where the springs themselves supply enough lateral rigidity, but only with coil spring suspensions."
 
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