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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #1
Good Morning Group -

This is my first time posting here. I purchased my white 2011 HSE from CarMax in April 2016. It had extremely low miles (32k), was in excellent condition, and had service records from the previous owner. I paid $42k, and I added a $2900 MaxCare extended warranty (60 mos/100k/$300 deductible), since I'm well aware of the expenses that can be incurred on these vehicles over time. I LOVE the look of this vehicle - I LOVE the way it drives, feels, and I was riding high for a solid week after I bought it. This is when the issues began.

The first issue seemed like a minor one. The side mirrors would dip down when the truck was in reverse, but they'd come back up and actually point towards the sky before I was finished backing up. CarMax took it in and "reprogrammed" the mirrors, stating the issue was corrected. I went to pick it up and as soon as I put it in reverse, the same issue occurred. I went right back in and asked that they keep it and actually fix it. The following day they said they sent it to the Land Rover dealership and they found corrosion in the door control module and one of the connectors. They cleaned it up and programmed the new module, verifying it was working correctly. I picked up the card and - you guessed it - the same issue occurred. It went back to the dealership and this time they found a short in the mirror drive motor. They replaced the motor and verified it worked correctly. It did! For about two weeks. I decided to give it a rest and actually drive my Range Rover for awhile and maybe deal with that issue later. I didn't get far.

About a month later, the suspension lowered completely while I was driving and an error message showed up. Although able to be driven, I looked like I'd lowered the truck about a foot and was riding on springs. The dealership found both front air springs to be leaking, causing the truck to default to the low position. They replaced the air springs, which was a $3000 repair, but I paid my $300 deductible. While there, they said they found the water pump pulley to be loose, so they replaced it. A $300 repair, but covered under the aforementioned deductible since it was on the same visit.

Two weeks later, the truck simply died while driving. It would start back up after a few minutes and allow me to drive for a bit, but then die again. Not safe. I had it towed to the dealership, where they found that the fuel pump needed to be replaced. Good news - no cost to me as the fuel pump was under warranty from where the previous owner had it replaced about a year earlier. After it was replaced, I drove it home. Well, I tried to drive it home. It died again. I had it towed right back, where they eventually (3 days later), found a burnt up terminal for the power to the fuel pump. They replaced that terminal and didn't charge me anything.

I picked the truck up and had a solid month of no issues (except the mirrors), when it suddenly lost power while driving. It didn't want to get above about 2k RPM and I smelled gasoline. I had it towed to the dealer, where they found one of the injectors stuck open. Good news - the warranty company covers that repair. Bad news - another $300 deductible AND $200 for an oil change (since the fuel flooded the engine).

I got another month or so out of the truck before another issue. I was adjusting the rear seats in order to haul a bicycle when I noticed the rear passenger seat wasn't exactly aligned with the rear driver-side seat. I noticed a piece of broken metal beneath one of the plastic covers. I removed the cover and found one of the springs to be broken in half. I decided to let that go since it was otherwise functional and I figured I'd mention it the next time it was in for service (which wouldn't be long, based on this truck's history).

The truck lost power while driving last week. Same issue as the last time, except this time it was a different fuel injector stuck open. Towed it in, $300 deductible plus $200 oil change, repair complete. While there, I asked them to review the seat issue. Good news - it's covered. Bad news - it'll be three weeks before the entire rear seat is delivered from overseas. This is a $2000 repair (again, covered under warranty).

I won't go into detail about what I consider wear and tear repairs that have also been completed, but the tires have been replaced and the brake pads and rotors have been replaced, as well as a $300 brake line service. That's another $2000 out of pocket, but those have nothing to do with reliability in my book. Just frustrating to have had the car less than 18 months and spending as much as I have.

So here's where I'm looking for advice...

The truck has 62k miles now, and the warranty continues to pay out for now. They've paid $7000. Obviously a good investment.

Just for the heck of it, I stopped by CarMax and got a quote for them to buy it. $20k. Laughable, but at least I know where they stand. I'm sure other dealerships would come closer to what it's actually worth.

Although I'd certainly get more out of it this way, I will not sell this vehicle to an individual.

I'm leaning towards continuing to drive it and hoping the issues stop. But even at $300 a pop, the repair costs are really adding up. I wish I could say it doesn't bother my wallet, but it does. And the TIME and INCONVENIENCE are annoying as well.

I have NEVER had this much trouble with a vehicle in my life. I've owned six cars since I was 16, and my $900 1989 Dodge Shadow ran more reliably than this Range Rover.

Am I naive to think these issues will stop? Am I in danger of the warranty company cutting me off? Do I have what would be considered a lemon?

Any advice or opinions are much-appreciated. Thank you.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Honestly, you just have bad luck with that truck or it's a lemon. I'd personally never buy a car from carmax.

Luckily you did get the warranty but why is it having so many issues since 32k? Fuel pump replaced prior to 32k miles by the previous owner? Has it been in any accidents/water damage? Did they have a full service history for it (even though it was only at 32k)?

Really sounds like something fishy happened with the truck or it really is just having the signs of being one of those lemons. If it's not, this goes to what I always say when people ask for advice about buying a rr with 100k miles or 20k miles...depends on the prior owner and how they took care of it. You could have one with 100k miles and be 100% mechanically perfect, yet have a low mileage one and have these symptoms you are experiencing.

I'm on my 3rd rr and I can tell you, this is not the norm. I hope you get it sorted out. Take it to a dealer or indy and have them fully inspect the car...something obviously isn't and has not been right with it.
 

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It's not a lemon. Some of those are standard wear and tear, one is user error and not following the owners manual while the fuel pump was just a duff unit. Sticky injectors can be from cheap gas or or a single failed unit. Brake line service... Flex lines or main lines? There was a flex line recall for later L322s at one point. Perhaps the shop you are using was not aware of it or didn;t bother to check.

bad luck? perhaps. Poorly maintained? most likely. Lemon? I see nothing there that remotely suggests it was a lemon buy back and sold on.
 

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The rear view mirrors are designed to move down when in reverse, it's a feature. It can be disabled in the setup menu. I have mine enabled because I find it useful. But if they finish up not back in the original position then yes that's an issue. Did you try de-selecting the option in the set up menu?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, what I'm saying is that they dip down correctly when reverse is selected, but then before you put the car back in drive, the mirrors flip back up and face all the way up, so I'm looking at the sky. So something is wrong with the feature. I've tried de-selecting it, which works to disable the feature entirely, but then when I select it again, the same issue arises. They've "tried" fixing it three times now and ultimately it goes right back to having the same issue.
 

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Based on my 2011 HSE (which I bought with ~65k miles) the problems on your car don't seem typical. There just are too many of them. I suspect a buyer who looks at car history will unfortunately conclude the same thing. I'm not sure if it came from factory that was or is a result of poor maintenance by the owner prior to you, but I would try to get rid of it. That's way too much mental anguish to deal with. Just so you know I only paid a little over $25k almost a year ago for a 2011 HSE with 65k miles (single owner, immaculately maintained with no history of problems). So even though it's painful that price isn't off by a HUGE margin. I wish I could tell you something more positive.
 

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Yes, what I'm saying is that they dip down correctly when reverse is selected, but then before you put the car back in drive, the mirrors flip back up and face all the way up, so I'm looking at the sky. So something is wrong with the feature. I've tried de-selecting it, which works to disable the feature entirely, but then when I select it again, the same issue arises. They've "tried" fixing it three times now and ultimately it goes right back to having the same issue.
Had a similar issue with my passenger mirror. There is a switch on the drivers side that allows you to switch from left to right mirrors to adjust. If left in the "passenger" side position, that means when the car is in reverse, the mirror will dip down (as designed). Due to horrible car washes and not folding in the mirrors, the motor in the passenger mirror will get all messes up. You have to replace the little mirror motor, or switch the mirror adjustment to the driver position and have no more dipping and raising.
 

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Ultimately with any used RR, without proper maintenance, these things breakdown faster. Having it garage kept vs. sitting in the sun all day play a huge difference. These are such amazing trucks, it's a good sign why it's at Carmax... the previous owner neglected it and ran into issues and was told it would be $$$ to fix, so traded it in. The good news, it's a one owner, so it didn't go through 3 additional owners who really neglected it before you got it. Good for you for buying the extended warranty. Can you take to Land Rover dealership with the warranty? They will figure out the real issues in minutes.

Clean the injectors and possible spark plug changes. I had a similar issue with stalling when truck was cold and it boiled down to Mass Air Flow Sensor and nasty old spark plugs.

Your truck almost seems like it has 120k miles and someone reprogrammed the odometer before trading it to Carmax, totally joking. A Range Rover can be like dating a super hot girl with a huge coke habit that you have to support.
 

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I'm sorry you have had so much trouble OP. This is the sort of stuff that has me worried about buying my first Rover. I'm looking to spend quite a bit less than you did. Not really a "fixer upper" but I'm good with higher mileage and such. I'm looking for that special sauce of correct options, around 100k miles and low owner clean history. It seems like these trucks really need to be taken as individuals, the history and care is a huge thing from what I am seeing. But these horror stories make me nervous, I'm glad to see the posts of people saying its not typical. I hope that is true.
 

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With that mileage I can hardly see why it would be owner neglect but not fully looking at the problems when in for repair. That is likely due to the low mileage and who would expect those issues at that mileage. Corrosion does seem like a possible flood issue or the door glass seals were compromised or a result of a possible faulty install. The damaged mirror motor is out of the box thinking but makes terrific sense with a range (and any vehicle) Very unfortunate to hear of this story as if you unload it now someone else will benefit from your heartbreak. The injector issue also makes one wonder about flood damage or really poor fuel as noted. Hope the cylinder walls are still ok and that nothing bent from possible hydrolocking of the engine. The burnt terminal was either a loose terminal or an overworked pump or faulty pump. Surprised that the relay would not have burnt. Very srry to hear. All I can say is that if i fall ill i hope my doctor will exhibit your tenacity.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for all the responses! It's been about 90 days since my original post, so here's an update...

The rear seat frame and springs came in and were replaced at a total cost of $1988.46. I paid the $300 warranty deductible. After folding the seat down a couple weeks later, I found it to still lock up. I took it back and they made an adjustment of some kind to the mechanism and said I won't have any further issues with that.

The mirrors continue to dip down as intended but then flip all the way up to the heavens about 20% of the time. I will look into replacing the motor as one member suggested.

The rear drivers side door has started to rattle a bit when I close it. I'll probably take it apart and see what's loose in there. Hoping it's minimal. I've also started to notice a bit of a rattle on the driver's side in the front, like the wind is catching something over there every so often. It could be the air intake in front of the door (are those even real?)

These are pretty minor issues compared to the truck not running or driving properly, so I'm not complaining.

Hoping to get another year of issue-free driving out of this thing!
 
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