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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all

After removing the allen screw to get to the screw holding the piston in place I am stuck. The screw inside the hole does not look like anything I've seen before.
I tried to get a picture into the hole to show what it looks like, anyone that can spread som light on this or has my compressor been rebuild before by someone from Mars?

Thank
/Erik

Screen Shot 2017-01-17 at 14.44.11.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Ive tried smaller and bigger. Neither worked, the screw does not look like an Allen screw. It actually looks like the Allen screw is missing?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Try a torx. I found one in one of my units rather than a hex.
 

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They should both be imperial Allen Screws. All the compressors I have are 3/16 for the outer grub screw, and 5/32 for the crank grub screw. Many folks use 4mm on the outer one with no issues, but the crank grub MUST be 5/32 or it will strip the hex.

Yours looks like somebody has tried to use metric allen keys in there.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the info guys
I ended up changing the seal etc with the piston still in. I did a bench test after re-essembly and things seem to be in order, a bit noisy though, maybe it should be that way?

One thing though, the cover for the lower part of the piston did not have the paper/rubber gasket that I've seen in som videos. It also looks like it never had one.

/Erik
 

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Does the pump produce plenty of air pressure ? It should easily do 170psi into a directly connected pressure gauge.

There are many threads that talk about holding a finger over the outlet, where on good pump you should not be able to stop the air. Do NOT do this with a bare finger. Instead use rubber glove and see if you can stop the air. This way you don't risk pushing air into your skin pores.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
Does the pump produce plenty of air pressure ? It should easily do 170psi into a directly connected pressure gauge.

There are many threads that talk about holding a finger over the outlet, where on good pump you should not be able to stop the air. Do NOT do this with a bare finger. Instead use rubber glove and see if you can stop the air. This way you don't risk pushing air into your skin pores.
yeah it blows the air kind of hard I held my finger in front of the air outlet when bench testing it, and it was definitely blowing hard.
Don't know if its hard enough.

Though I think a pervious owner have done a lot of weird stuff so I would not be surprised if the compressor is wasted even though I properly have replace the seal.

Today i rebuilt the valve block and some previous owner had used silicone sealant on all of the o-rings. Totally impossible to get rid of. after taking out the o-ring trying to get the silicone off was like taking down wallpaper mounted directly on a concrete wall and trying to get it all in one piece if you know what I mean. I putted it together anyway but I doubt it will seal as good as it should due to the silicone i could not get out of there. We'll see:shock:. I'm prepared to spend som cash on a new valve block assembly.

/Erik
 

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silicone can be removed with silicone remover,
commonly known as ketone , its like 10x that off acetone .
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It seems like the valve block rebuild did wonders. The car has not been sinking anything for two days. Before the build the left rear were on the bumps after an hour. Very Happy :)
 
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