[DubSport]

I can jump wires to start the compressor, and I can use the EASUnlock software to pump it up, compressor is strong (works).
I tested voltage on pin 13 underneath drivers seat to see that the pressure switch is working properly, as it gives 12V when the tank is pumped up (works).
I also tried grounding the orange wire that comes out of the pump itself, but that doesnt do anything because there is 0V on that wire to begin with.

I have checked all the Fuses, MaxiFuses, and replaced the relay 20, everything is fine.
I think my EAS computer is working fine because it does a great job of setting the ride heights and adjusting each corner properly.

My only problem is that I cannot get the compressor to automatically turn itself on when it needs to.

In the meantime I have rigged up a switch that I can manually turn it on underneath the drivers seat but then I run the risk of overpressurizing the tank if I forgot that I left the switch on.

Anything else that I should check or any other suggestions? Your advice is much appreciated!

 

[shupack]

don't ground the orange wire, ground the wire on the harness that connects to the orange wire. The ECU is looking for gound on this line, black with a purple stripe I believe, it goes through the orange wire to the blackwire INSIDE the compressor end bell, connecting orange to gnd doesn't do it, swap out the orange wire for a ground.

I apologize if that doesn't make sense, I'm up late..

 

[viperover]

Possibly fuse box is on its way out where the relay goes in, use a test light to determine if signal is present where relay is positioned, third from left nearest engine standing on side of vehicle

 

[DubSport]

Thanks for the suggestions. Grounded the black/purple wire and it didnt start the compressor.
Also tested voltage on pin 3 (output) of relay 20 and it had 12V... Is that what you meant?

 

[shupack]

I forgot to mention, there is a delay from when the ground is made back up, and the ECU will let the compressor start, to allow sufficient cool-down. I think it's 3 minutes. If you hadn't waited that long, try it again.

 

[DubSport]

Thank you for the suggestion.

I first tested for continuity through the Thermal Switch, and sure enough it was an open circuit, indicating my thermal switch has failed.

So then I grounded the black/purple small wire for a good 5 minutes and it still did not let the compressor turn on! So even if I do replace the thermal switch I think I will still be in the same situation, right?

 

[shupack]

if the ECU has given up trying you will need to reset the fault code.

 

[DubSport]

Thanks Shupack, I currently do not have an EAS fault, it does not say "EAS Fault" on the message center. I do have the service engine and check engine light on though, will that prevent EAS from kicking in?

 

[shupack]

no, engine codes have nothing to do with the EAS. if the engine runs the EAS is happy (should be....)

 

[DubSport]

OK back to square one.

To recap,
Failure of the pump motor <- It works, as tested using the jumper method
Blown fuse 44, Maxi Fuse 2, or Relay 20 (all in the engine compartment fuse box) <-- All check out OK, relay has been swapped twice
Faulty thermal cutout switch in the compressor <-- This I know to be faulty, as it fails the continuity test when cold, but grounding that connection did not allow the compressor to start for some reason...
Faulty pressure switch in the EAS valve block <-- This works as tested
Faulty EAS ECU <-- I suspect it is fine as the levelling works great.

I am still at a loss, and don't want to just start throwing parts at it blindly I would rather understand the problem first. Any more suggestions?

 

[shupack]

I think there may be something with the thermal switch still. repair that and see what happens, it needs fixed anyway.

 

[rdehaan]

Check the thermal switch but also check the brushes in the compressor itself.

If the compressor will run with manual activation or EAS software, that means the EAS computer and wiring from the computer to the compressor is in working order. The EAS pressure switch or the EAS thermal switch is telling the EAS computer to not trigger the compressor.

I would remove the compressor assembly and inspect the rear of the compressor. The bushing in the rear of the compressor can come loose and short out the thermal switch. This may be an intermittent occurance

See http://www.falconworks.net/EAS/Brushbox.htm

This sounds very similar to my problems - essentially when the brushes are loose they behave erratically. If correctly seated you will get continuity at your switch if not you won't (and you won't as soon as the compressor shakes) - same thing for compressor activation. Worth a quick look and not to hard tp open up and pull out.
Cheers,
Remy

 

[shupack]

- essentially when the brushes are loose they behave erratically. If correctly seated you will get continuity at your switch if not you won't (and you won't as soon as the compressor shakes) - same thing for compressor activation. Worth a quick look and not to hard tp open up and pull out.
Cheers,
Remy

not exactly, the thermal switch is wired between the orange to black, the brushes are attached to black and green.

you can get continuity through the TH switch with the end-bell off and brushes not touching anything. The rattling brushes can cause the thermal switch to trip or solder joints to break, causing intermittant problems.

 

[DubSport]

Alright thanks guys, Good news is I found the problem. I opened up the end of the compressor to find that the orange wire was completely disconnected!
Bad news is, after I soldered it back in, then tried to re-assemble everything, in the process my brushes completely disintegrated on me - BARRRGH!!! :x :evil:
I have no idea where to get replacement brushes that are going to be exactly that size... Maybe I will be better off buying someone elses compressor at this point.

 

[shupack]

I've got spare brushes, used, but not with leads so you'll have to solder them together OR you can send your compressor to me for repairs.

 

[rdehaan]

not exactly, the thermal switch is wired between the orange to black, the brushes are attached to black and green.

you can get continuity through the TH switch with the end-bell off and brushes not touching anything. The rattling brushes can cause the thermal switch to trip or solder joints to break, causing intermittant problems.

Thanks

 

[DubSport]

Well I got lucky because I found a shop that specializes in selling electric motor brushes... they had like every brush imagineable so I found the right ones there. Reassembled motor, jumpered wires to bypass the thermal switch and it operates on its own now.

Is it a really bad idea to bypass the thermal switch? Its really cold up here if that makes a difference... :lol:

 

[shupack]

it's OK to bypass, BUT you have to pay extra attention to it, I did manage to burn one up during testing...

 

[TheoR]

Since it's kinda related, I thought I would put this out there as well.

I've also had intermittent compressor issue as well. Initially, tapping the compressor housing restarted the compressor, but eventually the compressor stopped responding. The cause was one of the brush getting stuck in its housing. Cleaning the housing and brush of all the dust, and adjusting the spring solved the problem-for now.

Regards,

 

[tomcatrr]

Hi !

Today I found a RR with the same problem, the compressor don´t start, normally, only with the EASunlock...

But, if I manually let the compressor running, only the rear goes up, including beyond the values of off road position....

The car goes to the access mode... if we put the engine running, and select normal position, the led don´t blink!!!

The owner is so pi** off, he start thinking in castration , we try with another used EAS Ecu, but same results...

So, can anyone help me!!?? could be a drive pack problem??