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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Three things here, but it's probably good etiquette to avoid multiple new posts.

Having got to the bottom of a not-huge list of things to fix, I can tidy up a few minor bits and pieces.

That is correct; My 2001 P38 now works perfectly now that I've addressed all the usual issues, a project since March 2016. I told my wife this important news. She at least attempted to find it interesting; the quizzical stare I received could have come only from one who drives a brand-new Mazda CX-5 and expects it all to work and of course it does. That's an excellent car by the way. But who here would want one? I'd rather drive my P38 than just about anything else, including my 2005 Mercedes SL 500.

When I say it all works perfectly, I'm the guy you want as a previous owner. Every single bulb from bumper to bumper works now, including all the puddle lights under the doors (did you know P38s had these?), all the dash lights, (I replaced all the bulbs in the dash switches with LEDs - search Marty's post), all the screws in the dash replaced with the same better, tougher, flatter-head black self tappers, EAS rebuilt and sorted and HEVAC sussed and sorted.

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Does your P38 not maintain correct internal temperature?

Dismantle the little fan behind the air intake hole on the fascia and clean and lubricate the motor shaft. This allows the fan to spin at the correct speed, thus drawing the right amount of air over the thermistor, providing the right temp input to the HEVAC ECU. My internal temp control now seems to be spot on after this maintenance. The armature shafts gum up, like many motors of this type.

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I have a Parrot 7" tablet where the old sat-nav screen was, running into the old CD input. GOLD, as my left hand falls naturally on the volume control on the old Alpine deck, as well as the radio presets. It's got an illumination input powered from the car's lights, but...

If I take the feed from the park light switch, the screen flickers as I adjust the brightness of the car's dash lights. Plus I often want to have the park lights on without dimming the Parrot. If I take the feed from the headlight out of the BECM, it won't work when I use high beam, as the lights are either high or low beam

Can anyone think of a creative solution?

Thanks from Tom
 
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