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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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2006 HSE (NAS)

I see all kinds of references to this failing and adding a switch but I’ve yet to unearth any actual directions. Can somebody point me to a tutorial or at least the parts? I’m probably overthinking it but what do I do at the fuse box? I can’t just add a fuse tap can I because that still uses the same fuse? I need to break the connection there in order to add the switch do I not? (And an in-line fuse)
And where is everyone mounting this switch? I’ve seen them in the change holder but would rather not put mine there.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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You are overthinking. The Fuse 18 technique is basically pull Fuse 18 and then reinsert. This of course is a pain - so the workaround is to use a switch so that the fuse doesn't need to be repeatedly pulled out. Flick the switch - which is the same as pulling the fuse. BUT YOU SHOULD STILL HAVE A FUSE. You could try taking a blown fuse, the ones with the ends that have exposed embedded terminals and solder wires to both sides. The fuse has to be blown - open circuit. You are just using this to plug in to fuse box so it doesn't have to be pretty, but it has to remain in a condition you can plug it in to the fuse box. From there, one wire will go to the a new fuse carrier, the other wire of the fuse carrier will go to one end of a switch, and finally the other end of the switch will go to the modified blown fuse. Clean it up so you have no shorts with shrink tubing and pick your wire length to carry the current and allow you to place it where you want. I would imagine someone makes a straight plug in, but I have never looked.

If you are having problems with your steering lock, and you have determined it is the column lock issue - you should just fix what is most likely the broken magnet in the solenoid. Either the solenoids is sticking or the magnet is cracked or both. There are numerous write ups on this forum about the process. I have never done it, but it doesn't appear too complicated. You need to remove the steering column casing, air bag and steering wheel and then remove the ECU case. From there it is open case, not difficult but not bad, by drilling out some pins that hold it together. Remove solenoid and replace the magnet and lubricate. The magnet that people use is an R422 and can be purchased for less than $1.00 (postage extra).

It could be a sticking solenoid where people have drilled holes and sprayed a solvent cleaner at in to get it working. Me, if you are going this far, may as well pull it out and have a look and fix the magnet if it is cracked. A little extra work, but risk of damage is minimal and the results will be better.
 

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You are overthinking. The Fuse 18 technique is basically pull Fuse 18 and then reinsert. This of course is a pain - so the workaround is to use a switch so that the fuse doesn't need to be repeatedly pulled out. Flick the switch - which is the same as pulling the fuse. BUT YOU SHOULD STILL HAVE A FUSE. You could try taking a blown fuse, the ones with the ends that have exposed embedded terminals and solder wires to both sides. The fuse has to be blown - open circuit. You are just using this to plug in to fuse box so it doesn't have to be pretty, but it has to remain in a condition you can plug it in to the fuse box. From there, one wire will go to the a new fuse carrier, the other wire of the fuse carrier will go to one end of a switch, and finally the other end of the switch will go to the modified blown fuse. Clean it up so you have no shorts with shrink tubing and pick your wire length to carry the current and allow you to place it where you want. I would imagine someone makes a straight plug in, but I have never looked.

If you are having problems with your steering lock, and you have determined it is the column lock issue - you should just fix what is most likely the broken magnet in the solenoid. Either the solenoids is sticking or the magnet is cracked or both. There are numerous write ups on this forum about the process. I have never done it, but it doesn't appear too complicated. You need to remove the steering column casing, air bag and steering wheel and then remove the ECU case. From there it is open case, not difficult but not bad, by drilling out some pins that hold it together. Remove solenoid and replace the magnet and lubricate. The magnet that people use is an R422 and can be purchased for less than $1.00 (postage extra).

It could be a sticking solenoid where people have drilled holes and sprayed a solvent cleaner at in to get it working. Me, if you are going this far, may as well pull it out and have a look and fix the magnet if it is cracked. A little extra work, but risk of damage is minimal and the results will be better.
Is there a way to wire fuse 18 to say a lighting fuse so that circuit is broken then turned on when lights go on and off in car? That way no switch needed.
 

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2006 HSE (NAS)

I see all kinds of references to this failing and adding a switch but I’ve yet to unearth any actual directions. Can somebody point me to a tutorial or at least the parts? I’m probably overthinking it but what do I do at the fuse box? I can’t just add a fuse tap can I because that still uses the same fuse? I need to break the connection there in order to add the switch do I not? (And an in-line fuse)
And where is everyone mounting this switch? I’ve seen them in the change holder but would rather not put mine there.
lock fix


This is the simplest video I found to show the quick switch fix.
I took the basic idea and put a rocker valet switch on my lower console. It has worked like a dream for 3 years.
288096
 

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Has anyone tried one of these for key wont turn but pulling fuse 18 gives one key turn?
 

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Benas, un buen amigo, me consulto ayer el problema.Estoy diseñando la PCB para no tener que sacar y meter el fusible.Tan solo habria que pulsar brevemente un mini pulsador o el que lo desee llevar camuflado acercar un iman, en un determinado lugar, que no estaria a la vista.El costo de este artilugio, no sobrepasaria los 6 €.
Un saludo.
 

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[QUOTE = "mikesipos0911, publicación: 2311482, miembro: 450201"]
¿Hay alguna manera de conectar el fusible 18 para decir un fusible de iluminación de modo que el circuito se rompa y luego se encienda cuando las luces se enciendan y apaguen en el automóvil? De esa manera no se necesita ningún interruptor.
[/CITA]. Muy buena idea, lo voy a simular. Espero no lo detecte, la ECU. Un saludo
 

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L322 - 2005, 2006 na, 2012 sc
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I got one of these emulators after my steering wheel lock suddenly stopped working a month ago. It is plug and play, remove the lower steering column cover (3 screws), disconnect wire from steering lock ECU and plug into this little device. 10min and done.

Range Rover Vogue HSE Models - SCL ESL ELV Steering Lock Emulator - Plug and Play $65

It works great 99% of the time. I say 99% because twice it has not worked and needed to be unplugged and re-plugged back in so I don't trust it 100%. I bought two and will likely swap it out with the other one on the next failure. I have not put my lower steering column shield back on waiting on the next failure. Yes, I know I can pull fuse 18 or wire a switch... I'd rather not have a janky setup or have to cut wires. As I'm writing that, I realize I'm driving the truck without the lower steering column cover installed...

There is another vendor selling the same thing - I opted for the UHS Hardware one that was more expensive, figuring price and quality are mostly correlated with each other... This one is $50


If you have a better solution, by all means present it. For 6 Euros, I'll buy it. I think the best solution would be an emulator similar to the ones above but with a small discreet valet switch that can be installed on the upper column cover for when it doesn't work. If you can modify one of these emulators and add a small switch, I'd pay the extra 6 Euros. That way it's a plug and play solution and I don't have to butcher the vehicle wiring since the switch would be attached to the emulator. Thinking a switch similar to the following that looks factory, would not normally be noticed and can easily be mounted behind the wiper arm stalk out of view.

295301
 

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Hola de nuevo por aqui.He simulado y para hacerlo,como a Mi me gusta ,o sea bien,hay que colocar un Monoestable ,lo que encarece y complica el dispositivo.Lo mas efectivo es el pulsador o el contacto magnetico reed que al ir camuflado queda mas estetico.Si me deja el PC voy a mostrar el esquema ,el indicador luminoso es opcional supone unos 30 centimos de Euro mas.El dispositivo no esta a la venta,pero podeis realizarlo, es de mi cosecha y os doy mi permiso.Si alguien quiere hacerlo en PCB tan pronto pueda os paso el diseño.
Un saludo.
Domingo V.C..jpg
 

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I got one of these emulators after my steering wheel lock suddenly stopped working a month ago. It is plug and play, remove the lower steering column cover (3 screws), disconnect wire from steering lock ECU and plug into this little device. 10min and done.

Range Rover Vogue HSE Models - SCL ESL ELV Steering Lock Emulator - Plug and Play $65

It works great 99% of the time. I say 99% because twice it has not worked and needed to be unplugged and re-plugged back in so I don't trust it 100%. I bought two and will likely swap it out with the other one on the next failure. I have not put my lower steering column shield back on waiting on the next failure. Yes, I know I can pull fuse 18 or wire a switch... I'd rather not have a janky setup or have to cut wires. As I'm writing that, I realize I'm driving the truck without the lower steering column cover installed...

There is another vendor selling the same thing - I opted for the UHS Hardware one that was more expensive, figuring price and quality are mostly correlated with each other... This one is $50


If you have a better solution, by all means present it. For 6 Euros, I'll buy it. I think the best solution would be an emulator similar to the ones above but with a small discreet valet switch that can be installed on the upper column cover for when it doesn't work. If you can modify one of these emulators and add a small switch, I'd pay the extra 6 Euros. That way it's a plug and play solution and I don't have to butcher the vehicle wiring since the switch would be attached to the emulator. Thinking a switch similar to the following that looks factory, would not normally be noticed and can easily be mounted behind the wiper arm stalk out of view.

View attachment 295301
How exactly does the emulators work? Is there instructions and photos on how to install this?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 

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They are simple enough where not much is needed. Remove lower steering column shield, 3 torx screws, unplug steering lock ECU (just behind and below wiper stalk). Plug in to emulator. The only tricky part is look for pin #1 on the female plug and align with pin #1 on emulator.

In my experience, leave your lower steering column shield off for a while until you can really trust your emulator. Like I said above, it's failed twice on me where I needed to unplug and re-plug it in.

An emulator will only work if the fuse 18 trick works. Otherwise if the steering lock is stuck in the locked position, you need to go inside it to free it up.
 

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Buenas, tras examinar en detalle los esquemas del cableado que interviene en la desconexion del fusible 18.He encontrado otra soluccion mas rapida y mas economica.Solo hace falta un pulsador NC en reposo, teneis que localizar el Pin 7 del conector 2055 y cortar el cable y en sus extremos colocar el Pulsador. El cable creo que es ROJO y AMARILLO de 0.75 de seccion, esta justo enfrente del Pin 1. Me refiero al TD6.
Un saludo.
 

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[QUOTE = "waterloomarc, publicación: 2254720, miembro: 430758"]
2006 HSE (NAS)

Veo todo tipo de referencias a esta falla ya la adición de un interruptor, pero aún no he descubierto ninguna dirección real. ¿Alguien puede señalarme un tutorial o al menos las partes? Probablemente lo estoy pensando demasiado, pero ¿qué hago en la caja de fusibles? No puedo simplemente agregar un fusible, ¿puedo hacerlo porque todavía usa el mismo fusible? Necesito romper la conexión allí para agregar el interruptor, ¿no es así? (Y un fusible en línea)
¿Y dónde están todos montando este interruptor? Los he visto en el soporte de cambio, pero prefiero no poner el mío allí.
[/ CITA]. He examinado a conciencia el esquema eléctrico y lo más económico y rápido es colocar un pulsador NC, este en reposo permanece cerrado y al pulsar desconecta la alimentación de la ECU de la columna de la dirección y ya puedes mover la llave de arranque. Diseñe otro automático que no tienes que colocar nada. Al abrir la puerta del conductor, hace lo mismo. Pero mi consejo es Anular mecánicamente el bloqueo de la dirección y así no hay sorpresas. Alguien me puede decir si el solenoide del bloqueo, sin tensión, está en activo. Me refiero bloqueando la columna de dirección. No lo sé, no tengo RANGE ROVER.
Un saludo
 
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