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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys, I need some advice. During cold start ups in the morning or after the RR has been sitting around for a while the Range wobbles and shakes roughly. It does this for a few seconds and then smooths out afterward.

Could this be a need for new spark plugs or wires or both? Or could it be something more difficult like replacing the hard to reach coil packs.

Any ideas of what can be causing this rough cold start idle and a recommended fix?

So far I cleaned the MAF and put in a fresh new paper air filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Okay, 1 hour later I changed all 8 spark plugs with some NGK G-Power Platinum Plugs BPR5EGP stock no. 7082.

The Range feels like it is pulling a little better during acceleration but that cold start shake is still there.

Also, the spark plugs on the rear of the engine towards the firewall on both the drivers side and passenger side would not screw in all the way. Anyone else experience these plugs not threading in all the way....I did not want to tread too hard.
 

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If incorrect plugs were fitted at some point the bottom threads could have been exposed. THis would lead to carbon deposits on the bottom threads. You might invest a few bucks in a thread chaser and gently give them a cleaning.
 

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it will if it is the propper thread. You can always go to your local parts house with spark plug in hand to pick up the correct item.
 

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depends on if it is smoke or steam. Is your coolant level dropping? If it is steam, does it only do it when cold or consistently even after warmed up? If it is smoke, is it blue or grey/black? Does it only do it under load or when letting off the gas?
 

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Our cooling systems are sealed adn do not "use" coolant. If your level is dropping you have a leak plain and simple. If you can't find a leak in ORings, lines or radiator then you most likely have a head gasket failing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Would a failing head gasket cause the initial rough shaky wobble start up? It goes away in a few seconds.

There is some coolant dripping very very slowing from the throttle body heater plate. These things always leak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Okay, I checked the oil and it does not look milky.

This is my 3rd P38 Bosch and my past two throttle body heater plates leaked and needed to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looking back at my records the head gasket was changed 3 years ago and 30k miles ago by a local Land Rover stealer for the value price of $2,600.

I guess I am out of luck on any workmanship warranty. The original head gasket lasted for 60k miles before it went bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No misfire codes, but I did get a P1172 and P1175 code. I purchased a Bosch MAF for $190 versus a generic MAF for $31, hopefully that will clear up the code but not sure if it will help with the cold start but we will see.

I ordered a thread chaser and will try to fix the two driver and passenger side rear spark plug threads as the spark plugs will not go in all the way....
 

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medcapequip said:
No misfire codes, but I did get a P1172 and P1175 code. I purchased a Bosch MAF for $190 versus a generic MAF for $31, hopefully that will clear up the code but not sure if it will help with the cold start but we will see.

I ordered a thread chaser and will try to fix the two driver and passenger side rear spark plug threads as the spark plugs will not go in all the way....
put some grease on it so it catches the shavings before it goes into the motor.
 

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medcapequip said:
No misfire codes, but I did get a P1172 and P1175 code. I purchased a Bosch MAF for $190 versus a generic MAF for $31, hopefully that will clear up the code but not sure if it will help with the cold start but we will see.

I ordered a thread chaser and will try to fix the two driver and passenger side rear spark plug threads as the spark plugs will not go in all the way....
If you are changing your MAF it is a good idea to get the adaptive values reset.
 
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