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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
Mechanic that was supposed to be replacing valve cover, and timing cover gaskets tells me that when he started into it he found that the coils were covered in coolant. He said he pressurized the cooling system and could find no leak. He said he was unwilling to attempt a repair. With that kind of attitude I am not going to press him, or them, I will just take it somewhere else.

My next step is to take to a more knowledgeable specialized mechanic. I found a good one that only does Range Rovers and Jags and he seemed pretty knowledgeable and well spoken on the phone.

I have searched the forums and could not find the exact same issue. Is it the valley pan gasket? Thats what my forum research tells me it could be.

I was considering spending two grand on new tools and an allcoms rather than mechanic labor and just fixing it myself. I think I am looking at $3k in labor and $300 in parts.
 

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I am having a hard time visualizing this. What year and model do you have?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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It's either a head crack...which is not likely, or one of the hoses or valley pan is leaking enough to spray coolant on the heads. There are also 2 pipes with o-rings that can leak. I am assuming you've got the BMW engine...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
2004 Range Rover HSE 125k Miles.
Yes, BMW engine.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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$3000 to change a few gaskets and hoses.... I'm the wrong side of the pond and in the wrong job!!!!!!!!
 

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In that case, this is just a "top of my head" list of what can spray coolant on the top of the engine:

2 pipes from water pump to rear manifold.
Water pump seal.
3 heater hoses on left side of engine compartment.
3 Hoses at the rear of the engine.
Valley cover.
Upper radiator hose.

If you know that the engine has been overheated, then a head crack is a possibility. Otherwise, all these seals and hoses are likely your source. A non-BMW/Rover mechanic would likely not know about all the sources.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
They initially told me the water pump was the culprit for the leaking coolant and it was slated to be repaired. They already had the new water pump in hand.

The answer just above here is an excellent resource and appreciate your taking the time to provide it. The first mechanic seems to have ordered the wrong control arms and is now doing none of the work and is charging $0. I get to start from zero with the right person for the job and I will post his findings in the event that someone has the same problem and searches the forums for the answer.
 

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As soon as you mentioned coolant, it pretty much says you're talking about the M62 BMW engine. I have never seen an engine with more hoses, plates and seals to contain coolant. It seems most harden and start to leak at about the 70k mile point.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #9
I thought I would provide an update for anyone searching the forums trying to figure out why there is coolant pooling where the coils are.

Most recent mechanic told me that it was a freeze plug on the coolant line of the intake manifold. He said there are two on each side and one of mine on that side had failed and was leaking. He would recommend replacing them both.

He went on to say that he was unwilling to fix it because of the complexity of the vehicle and the fact that the differential or something went through the oil pan and he would have to deal with that to fix an oil pan gasket leak. All I really heard was "I'm not going to fix it because I'm not smart enough or because its too difficult and I'm lazy."

He said I had to take it too the dealer. So now I have found a 3rd shop who is willing to take a shot at it even after having all the information from the two prior mechanics. He said that the key not turning and having to disconnect the battery every time you need to start it was part of the immobilizer system and that he could and would likely fix everything else but it would have to go to dealer to fix that. Wonder what that cost will be? I still love this vehicle and I am going to get it going if its the last thing I do!
 

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Glad you got it away from the second shop...as there is no coolant freeze plugs on the intake manifold!

The oil pan gasket is, indeed, a bear. I doubt the oil pan is leaking, though. The most common leaks are from the 3 front timing covers and the valve covers. These both leak down, and blow back on, the oil pan, so can look like an oil pan leak. These seals, plus a refurb of the valve timing (vanos) systems will run about $1500 in parts, and the same in labor. These gaskets are thick rubber. After 7 years and about 70k miles, the rubber turns hard and brittle. The pan gasket is metal with rubber facings...so it lasts longer, so long as all stays tight.

If you do have an oil pan leak, the entire subframe has to come out. That is very major bucks. add another $1k to the job...almost exclusively labor.

And...there are actually an upper and lower pan gasket. The lower is a 30 minute job, but the upper requires axle and sub frame removal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Its at a place now that only does Rovers, Audi, BMW, Porsche, and Mercedes. They wont do anything else. My appointment with them is not until tomorrow however. So I will have an educated assessment soon.

Why would he say a freeze plug? He knew he wasn't going to fix and therfore didn't have any reason to lie, what do you think he was seeing? I am thinking he is likley more ignorant than dishonest.
 

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Unknown?? But there is no coolant in the BMW intake. There are 2 pipes and a valley pan below it, but no coolant runs through it, as in the Jaguar motor. The valley pan leaks after about 70k miles, and the leak usually enters into the rear bell housing and out around the flywheel area. If you didn't know any better, you would think that leak is from a hidden freeze plug on the back of the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mechanic called back today. They want $7,600 for the work that is required and $10,700 if the head gaskets need to be replaced. I will post the total list of all that needs to be done so you can get an idea of exactly how bad they want to stick it to me.

They said there was some engine noise in the bottom of the engine that almost goes away once its warmed up. They say there is obvious engine noise in top but the noise in the bottom could be some kind of bearing and that they wouldn't want me to spend all that money only to have whatever is causing the noise to result in needing the engine replaced.

So here is what I think I am going to do...
I am going to pull this into my garage and get myself the education I have been avoiding. I am going to take the engine all the way down to taking the heads off and replacing the head gaskets.

I have some questions...
If I already have the heads off, how difficult would it be to get into the engine and remedy whatever is causing the noise? Are there some kind of cam shaft bearings or something that I could replace fairly easily once I have the engine that far apart?

I have completed a project on this scale on a nissan in the past. It required some specialized tools that tended to hold the project up every time I had to order one. Do you guys know of any specialized tools that will be required and maybe I can go ahead and get them and save some time. I am going to order an allcomms directly after posting this.

I know I will need the RAVE and will find the link in this forum somewhere but is there another good teardown and rebuild guide that might be helpful or is it all in RAVE? I will need to torque specs of all the bolts and so on and so fourth.

I am trying to collect everything that will be needed so I can hit this project hard and fast.

They also said there are several canbus faults. Think allcomms will clear that up?

I am going to video this project for three reasons. The main one is I just like a video of how awesome I am. The second is I may need it to reference getting something back together the same way it came apart. And lastly it might be helpful to someone here.
 

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I have to admit I avoided my first early L322 because my lack of BMW experience made it rather daunting. I read the overhaul sections in RAVE three or four times before I jumped in. There are a couple of odd ball tools that can be rented at your local parts house and in a pinch you can always ask here. The first gen rigs are not nearly as bad once you get dirty. :mrgreen:
 

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Another source of information on engine repairs for the BMW-engined RRs is bimmerboard.com/forums/e38/ and e38.org.

I came to this board after long-time (and ongoing) BMW ownership since 1977. I had two BMWs that had motors very similar to that in the RR. Both needed the valley pans replaced, as well as new gaskets, hoses etc. on the top of the engine. If only that's the problem, it's a very doable DIY job. Tedious, but not that difficult. I did one withheavily bandaged fingers, owing to two of them encountering a table saw in a bad way!

The two web sites I cited have detailed postings on how to do these jobs. While you are in there, also replace the intake manifold gaskets. They too brittle up with age and should be replaced at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The RAVE guide I downloaded from the link here does not have my engine in it. Does anyone have the link to the RAVE with a 2004 BMW 4.4 Overhaul in it?
 

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If you downloaded from the link in the FAQ it most certainly does have overhaul sections. There was only one NAS engine so it is the only one in RAVE for the L322
 

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Discussion Starter #18

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What is there to research for RAVE? Go to the FAQ stickie and download it.

As far as parts I normally only order through AB as well. THeir prices are higher on some items but being on a first name basis with a few of the folks and getting stellar service is more important to me.
 

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The estimates look ballpark for the items. I doubt you need all of that, though. Head gaskets?? Is there a reason they think the head gaskets are bad?

Also, if you got all the parts in the estimate, including suspension items, for $1k, you are doing better than I could do. It cost me more than that in parts just to change the front timing cover gaskets...with all the project creep involved. I guarantee that you are missing some parts you will need if you only have $1k invested.

I think you need to back up, ignore what the shop says you need, and start the diagnosis over. For a little coolant on the top of the engine, you don't need $1k in parts to fix it!! Is there more going on you have not mentioned?
 
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