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Discussion Starter #1
There is a clunk when I put the rover into Drive and Reverse, mainly when I switch between the two.

Is this a problem?

Car shifts like a dream while driving, Is it just the drive shaft changing directions and catching hard or something to that affect?
 

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This "could" be a problem. RR are known for some noise/clunks in the driveline. But the place to start looking is the universal joints (U-joints).

Grap the drive shafts and see if there is any play in the joints. Sometimes you will feel no play, but a joint could still be bad. You could first give the joints a shot of grease from a grease gun, sometimes the bearings will free-up. If you have some miles on the beast might be time to replace the joints anyway.

Perhaps less likely(I hope) is a problem with the transfer case. Could be a bearing.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Tony, If its just joints, not a big problem right?
 

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it is the ball joint at the top of the "a" arm on the back suspension. (self leveling arm??).

I am getting a new one brought in for mine too. It's very common on these things. Should run you about $12.00 for the parts.
 

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U-joints aren't a big deal, just takes a bit of time to get them out/in. You will need a vise, or a press to get the joints out/in though.

You might also want to take the driveshafts to a rebuilder after you get them out, and then have them do the work. In the NE we have Fleight Pride that does this type of stuff. It's up to you, you know your skill level.
 

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I have that in my 89 rover..rover mechanic said it's a worn transfer case. the borg-warners apparently are crap. Just a quick question...does it generally NOT clunk when you first put it in gear sometimes, and then always clunk when you just move it from drive to reverse and back to drive?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Generally yes. Only time I think that it clunks at first is when im parked and initially put it into reverse (after of course, it being in Drive when I parked it)
 

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Sounds like the same thing I have...worn transfer case. I changed the oil to redline dexron II synthetic to see if that helps a little and extend its use. Seems a little quieter though not much. I think some people replace it with a disco transfer case, but that's a several thousand dollar job.
 

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Anyone actually had a transfer case crap out on them? My '92 had a clonking transfer case, just thought it was normal. I used to have a hybrid, basically a chopped up RR with the body of a lightweight, that also had a clonking transfer case, I put 50K miles on it before the engine blew up; but no transfer case problem.

-Ben
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I was pretty much under the impression that the Tranny is pretty much rock solid. Clunking on a rover is... a sign that it is still running.
 

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I don't think it's necessary to fix the transfer case. I've gone to two reputable Land rover mechanics in the S.F Bay area and one said it's worn, but it's not imperative to get it done and the other said he can look for a disco transfer case and swap it out for a cost of 3K, which he recommended be done. I went with the first guy who seemed more honest and with whom I felt more comfortable..the other guy just wanted to make a buck..or should I say 3000
 

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I know this is an old thread but thought I'd share my experience in case anyone else stumbles on this and give back to the forum. My 1995 soft dash had this clunk when stationary and going from n to d or d to r. I had assumed as many others that this was a 'feature' and lived with it but while overhauling my engine (not suggesting that btw) I changed the engine and gearbox mounts. Clunk has vanished and truck has 111k miles on it so was thinking chain stretch etc. I doubt it was loose bellhousing bolts as I have seen others cite as they were a bugger to move plus have quite tight dowls, so new mounts is all I can chalk it up to. Cheap enough to do and worth it anyway if yours aren't in good shape as they smooth out the car immeasurably!
 

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I like it
A nice easy fix
More or less
I have the clunk occasionally
But worth a try
To make it go away
I had excepted it as
One of the classic things you have to accept
 

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the thread was started long before the last response, but to end all guessing here it is. the classic is equipped with a mechanical valve body automatic transmission, basically if shifting from park to forward or reverse or in between reverse and drive you are manually opening and closing valves to change hydraulic flow to suit your needs.
this in it self causes noises, then you add external couplers (trans to tcase), chain or gear mesh play in tcase, torsion force of driveline, gear mesh play in differentials, rear axle shaft spline mesh, front axle spline mesh, and front axle CV joint mesh plus wear and you have a clunk to chase for a very long time.
you could overhaul the complete drive train but unless in the budget for a ground up resto, parts and labor would negate benefits. basically stay on top of wear or worn components and repair as needed.
the p38's driveline (tcase and autobox) is electronic, according to shop and owner's manual if rpms are outside of idle range when shifting gears, the ecu is smart enough to compensate and either not engage gears and or send a signal to engine ecu to power down and avoid clunks and or driveline shock. (just in case anyone wonders if and why does the p38 doe not clunk). of course this does not compensate for u joint and or gear wear.

best of luck.
 

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Thanks Tony, If its just joints, not a big problem right?
oh no not at all. Clunking when shifting out of park into reverse or past neutral to drive usually indicates worn Ujoints. If you haven't been greasing them at every oil change they are most like getting dry and the needle bearings are being destroyed. Metal on metal in at any point in either drive line is dangerous. If the Ujoint at the transfer case fails you will drop the back end of the front drive line to the road surface. Keepin mind it is still spinning in relation to the speed being driven when the Ujoint failed. It has the ability to bounce upward and pierce the floor board or while it is flopping and bouncing around it can easily damage fuel lines and/or brake lines. I point out the Ujoint at the front of the transfer case as being a failure point because it is usually the one that wears out first.
 

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In addition to the above, you have to check the joints with wheels blocked and park brake off, plus gearbox in neutral else the joints will be loaded and you may not detect play in them.

Routinely I shift from D to R and from N with Park brake applied. It just stops any driveline shunt going through the whole system, just more gentle long term.

Also (as with most road orientated auto trans) the torque converter stall speed is more or less at the ecu tickover set point. If it can't maintain that rpm then any increase already gas torque loading going into the gearbox sufficient that driveline torque reversal wacks the whole system.

In addition to that, put air-con switch on and it'll raise rpm at idle (crude anti-stall) that will also promote that above scenario.
 

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My 84 with the 3 speed auto (Chrystler Torqueflite 737) has the gear driven transferbox (LT230 up to 1985?), unlike the later models with the chain drive. From what I understand the natural play in the transferbox gears contributes significantly to the clunk. This is an issue with the autobox which applies constant torque to the output shaft compared to manual gearbox where you offload with the clutch.

I tried the handbrake trick as suggested by RRLondon, but makes no real difference. Still not used to it but I can live with it no problem.
 

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I do still have the felling of a soft jerk when the slop in the transmission is taken up. But the very audible (especially in a car park) clunk has definitely disappeared. Makes the engine feel smoother too which is not entirely unexpected. Just suggesting it as a nice side effect of changing the engine and gearbox mounts however one must also note I have a sample size of one.

I'm going for soft and wafty drive so all these add to the feeling.

Just need softer air springs next...



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