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Hi Folks excuse the first post as always the worst. Picked up a 2000 4.0 SE which I think has turned out to be a pup. Did 150 miles without issue and then 10 miles from home and the temperature swings wildly into the red and expansion tank kicking out what was left of the coolant (muddy water probs). Got towed for the rest and then the last 2 weeks has been in the local garage. They have (1) changed radiator (2) checked for the dreaded head gasket failure including compression tests and all good so far. Now this is where it gets mildly interesting. they put a new thermostat in for good measure and have said that as the car warms up and they have taken it out for a good spin the radiator does not get uniformly hot, the thermostat does not open fully and the car will look to overheat. When they start it up, one of the guys holds the main fan, the radiator gets fully hot, thermostat opens and no overheating.... so after £565 they have now taken out the thermostat and given me the car back. I am crying in my beer when my good lady takes it out in kent today and says blower is only cold, temp never gets above blue on the level and only in town does it creep above that level. I tried this all tonight with idling, driving around the block and even with the car at full temp when the blower is on full no hot air. I took the expansion tank lid off (let it cool first) as there was a general hissing even before I let it cool. I checked there was sufficient coolant, restarted the engine and watched when I revved the engine slightly - coolant looked to circulate in from the top pipe and no bubbles or overflows etc.... I am loathed to take it back to the garage as they then want to replace the fan with an electric one as another workaround or bodge. Can someone please help or at least point me to a good specialist in my area in kent. Thanks guys.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sounds like the radiator is partially blocked. Get a new one, and a new thermostat too. The thermostat is a plastic funnel thing with four pipes, so they can't have just removed it! Well, unless they removed it *and* disconnected the heater pipes, which is likely to add all sorts of fun problems to the mix. When you go to put fresh antifreeze in, make sure it's the pink stuff because if you add the blue stuff it reacts with the pink stuff and gunges your radiator up. This is quite likely what's happened at some point in the past.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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There's been some stories of cheap radiators missing an internal baffle so the coolant doesn't flow evenly over the full width so you could have been sold one of them. In this thread http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...-6-hse-mixed-up-coolant-hoses-thermostat.html there's a picture of the hoses and water flow (yours is the second (Thor) one). If they have removed the thermostat (item 13), then it is quite possible they have disconnected the heater pipes. Alternatively, they may have left the housing in place but cut it open to remove the actual stat. If the cooling system is not bled properly the first thing that fills up with air is the heater matrix so you get no heat. Normally, when the stat is closed all the coolant flow goes through the heater so it will push any air locks through, with no stat that isn't going to happen. No heat is usually the first sign that you have insufficient coolant either because it is leaking out or because not enough was put in in the first place.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi

These engines require proper dearating and the heater not working and the temperature gauge acting up point to air trap in your coolant system. There are some post on here on burping the system. I personally follow the method of my mechanic, after filling up the system run the engine with open coolant reservoir and keep topping up the coolant until level remains at cold level. Rev the engine and keep it at 2000 rpm and let it get hot. Now when the circulation is good you will see coolant coming back from the dearating tube from the radiator at the small pipe under the water level and at the top of the pipe is a small hole spraying out coolant. Once all is ok and hot you can close the coolant cap and now pressure will build up in the system. This is normal and hissing when opening the cap even after some cooling down is also normal.

The pressure should not be too much and the coolant hoses you should be able to compress with ease when you pinch them with running engine. If the hoses become rock hard this points to excessive pressure and if that is the case there might be a leak from the combustion chambers toward the coolant system which can be detected by doing the so called sniff test of the coolant.

Given the info that the radiator does not evenly get hot, have that checked with an infrared thermal gun. If this as really the case, a new radiator should be added to your priority list. If it is blocked at places it will also make the dearating impossible on the other hand it could have been just air traps.

See the other posts
http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-...ion-tank-help-please-only-had-car-2-days.html

Regards

Jos
 
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